Croazia, angolo dei Balcani affacciato sul mare

Zara, piccola perla dell’Adriatico

Eccola l’antica cittadella, circondata dalle mura bianche con il mare a destra, a sinistra e di fronte, e solo un ponte come collegamento con la terra ferma. Da qui partiremo per scoprirla e attraversarlo è già entrare in un posto nuovo, diverso da ciò che la strada ci ha offerto fino ad ora; una barchetta rossa si allontana solitaria dal pontile, la musica lungo il ponte è una fanfara che ci accoglie festosa, sono in otto e ripetono ad oltranza una musica a tratti malinconica per i passanti distratti o attenti che siano: lo spettacolo è per tutti.

L’enorme arco in pietra, ricavato nelle mura, è la porta d’accesso per Zara, qui una mappa indica le zone bombardate e distrutte durante il conflitto 20 anni fa, per ricordare che la guerra è ancora dura da dimenticare.

Zara la scopri tra i vicoletti, e tra i vicoletti scopri la sua storia in mezzo a gruppi di vocianti turisti, scopri la Porta di Terraferma, simbolo della città veneziana, con ancora impresso il leone di San Marco; scopri la cattedrale di Santa Anastasia, quando la città era bizantina, con la facciata in stile romanico e gli interni barocchi; scopri, a poca distanza, la chiesa di San Crisogono, uno dei quattro patroni di Zara; scopri Piazza del Popolo (Narodni Trg), dove si affacciano la Loggia della città in stile rinascimentale,in origine sede del tribunale, il municipio e il Palazzo della Gran Guardia con la torre dell’Orologio del 1798; arrivi in piazza delle Erbe e all’antico Foro Romano, con i turisti che passeggiano tra le rovine romane e dove sorge la bella chiesa bizantina di San Donato, dedicata alla Santissima Trinità, con la sua particolare forma a pianta circolare e le tre absidi.

E infine raggiungi il mare, mentre il sole cala lentamente, un suono delicato sembra arrivare da chissà dove, un pianista nascosto suona ad intervalli regolari, con acuti e note profonde: è l’organo marino, una sensazionale emozione di cui godere guardando il tramonto. Ogni onda è una nota diversa, ogni scroscio una sinfonia, dal suolo le bocche dell’organo liberano il loro canto, i click e i flash ticchettano acuti, alternati alle basse note, alcune persone posano la testa sulle canne dell’organo, forse per capire da dove arrivi la melodia, mentre il mare si prende il sole anche per questa notte.

Ma prima di andar via resta un’ultima cosa da fare, giriamo per le viuzze con in mano una vecchia foto, in bianco e nero, con lo scorcio di una piazza e una colonna romana e sulla destra, le finestre che affacciano sulla piazza, sono quelle da cui, da bambina, la nonna di Lucia, e prima di lei sua madre, si affacciavano, osservando la vita di una Zadar prima asburgica e poi italiana. Viaggiare è anche questo, tornare alle proprie origini, essere nomadi come ogni uomo lo è sempre stato, riscoprendo la propria storia. La vecchia colonna è ancora lì e la piazza non è molto cambiata rispetto agli inizi del ‘900, c’è solo qualche tavolino in più e un po’ di gente che fa chiasso.

 

On the road, Split direction

Direzione Spalato, niente strade veloci ed autostrade, solo costa, curve e lentezza. Lungo la strada la città più grande che incontriamo è Sibenik, ma è da evitare accuratamente. La strada è la N° 8 – Jadranska Magistrala, uno spettacolo della natura: calette si susseguono lungo tutto il percorso, piccoli fiordi entrano nella costa e fanno risplendere il mare azzurro, il verde degli alberi ripara dal sole e ricopre le lingue di asfalto, viene voglia di fermarsi ad ogni curva.

Continuiamo però fino a Tribunj, 1500 abitanti, possiede la flotta di pescherecci più grande di tutta la Dalmazia centrale. Un piccolo villaggio di pescatori, con il centro ricco di casette in pietra bianca, incastrato su di un’isoletta unita alla terra da un piccolo ponte, poi le spiagge, vanto di questo borgo. Andando fuori dal centro e superato il porto c’è solo l’imbarazzo della scelta su dove fermarsi, fino a che non finisce la strada e quindi toccherà tornare indietro. L’esperienza da non perdere è quella di sedersi ai tavoli di uno dei ristorantini di pesce che affacciano sul mare, spartani e semplici, vi faranno mangiare uno dei pranzi di pesce più abbondanti e deliziosi che abbiate mai provato.

Dopo sole, mare e pranzo ci siamo rimessi in strada per raggiungere la destinazione. Prima però c’è un’altra sosta lungo il percorso, Primosten, più a sud di Sibenik, è considerata una dei paesini più affascinanti della zona. Circondato da mura e attraversato da strette stradine medievali ha conservato l’aspetto e il fascino di un tempo; tutt’intorno le spiagge e il mare limpido lo rendono il luogo perfetto per qualche giorno di relax, lontano dalle orde di turisti e dalle grandi città.

Costruito su di una collina, il panorama è dominato da un campanile. Sulla cima, un cimitero, affacciato sul mare, circonda la chiesa. Sarà macabra come riflessione, ma la quiete e la pace che si respira per le strade rendono il luogo ancora più affascinante.

Primosten è una sosta veloce, ci sono ancora 60 km da percorrere per Spalato e il sole comincia a tramontare.

 

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