23 Giu 2015

Week end @ Venezia

di | postato in: All posts, Italia, Week end @ | 625

Arrivi alla stazione di S. Lucia e come prima cosa ti guardi intorno meravigliato, convinto di essere finito su un set cinematografico, con motoscafi, gondole e battelli che ti passano davanti in un via vai continuo, sul canale di fronte a te. La seconda sensazione è forse l’ansia, quella voglia di volerti calare subito nel cuore della città, mischiarti in mezzo alle centinaia di persone che hai di fronte a te in questo spicchio di Venezia. Pensi di voler prendere un battello per raggiungere S. Marco: fila; pensi di rivolgerti all’info point: fila; fermiamoci ad un bar per caffè: fila. L’approccio può non sembrare dei migliori, ma Venezia è ancora tutta da scoprire e non vi lascerà delusi.

—————————— GIORNO 1 ——————————

10:00 – Santa Croce e San Polo

Innanzitutto, chi arriva per la prima volta a Venezia deve godersela a piedi. Lasciate il battello alle orde di turisti e immergetevi nell’atmosfera cittadina, non seguite i cartelli che vi indicano la strada per S. Marco, ma superate il Ponte degli Scalzi di fronte a voi, ritrovandovi nel quartiere di Santa Croce; tranquillo, silenzioso, girate per i vicoletti senza seguire un percorso preciso ma zigzagando intorno al Rio Marin.

Come ogni vecchia città i quartieri si incastrano uno con l’altro e quindi si passa facilmente tra Santa Croce e San Polo, continuate la passeggiata in questo nuovo quartiere, sbirciando tra le finestre delle botteghe che preparano a mano le maschere di carnevale, infilandovi nei cortili e ammirando la facciata dell’antica scuola di San Giovanni.

11:30 – Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Orientandovi nel quartiere di San Polo raggiungete la Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, l’esterno è molto semplice e l’ingresso è a pagamento, ma ciò che ammirerete all’interno è unico. La magnificenza della tomba di Canova, l’Assunta di Tiziano alla fine della lunga navata, il coro ligneo e le centinaia di altre opere racchiuse tra gli archi neo – gotici e le enormi volte rendono la Basilica un posto unico, immerso nel silenzio e nella luce colorata che entra dalla grandi vetrate.

12:30 – Ponte di Rialto

Dopo Santa Maria dei Frari, continuate a passeggiare per il quartiere di San Polo, attraversandolo tutto in lunghezza, passando per Campo San Tomà, Campo San Polo, Campo San Silvestro e affacciatevi, la prima volta dopo aver lasciato la stazione, su Canal Grande. Da qui vi aspetta uno dei panorami più belli di Venezia e del mondo: il Ponte di Rialto.

Il più antico e famoso dei quattro ponti che attraversano il Canal Grande, costruito nel 1181, inizialmente si trattava di un semplice ponte in  legno che collegava le due rive del canale ed era conosciuto prima come Ponte della Moneta perché su una delle sponde si trovava l’antica Zecca della Repubblica di Venezia e poi prese il nome attuale collegando la città con il mercato di Rialto.  E’ stato ricostruito diverse volte dopo molti crolli, ma verso la fine del ‘500 si decise renderlo solido, dandogli l’aspetto attuale: un’unica arcata, con botteghe sui due lati che formano tre passaggi.

13:00 – Piazza e Basilica di San Marco

Dopo Rialto bisogna continuare verso l’altro luogo simbolo della città: Piazza San Marco. L’intera piazza è un gioiello, circondata da tutti i lati da palazzi unici nel loro genere e affacciata sul Canal Grande è conosciuta in tutto il mondo come il Salotto d’Europa. Arrivando dal mare il colpo d’occhio è fantastico, con le due colonne, sormontate dai simboli della città, il leone e San Teodoro, che presidiano la piazza, a destra il Palazzo Ducale, con le facciate in stile gotico e la torre del campanile.

La piazza circondata sui due lati dalle Procuratie vecchie e nuove e in fondo dal Museo Correr ha il suo gioiello sul lato nord: dedicata al patrono della città, nata come cappella privata del Doge, la Basilica di San Marco, con l’arrivo delle spoglie mortali del Santo nel 828 e la sua consacrazione nel 1094, diventò il fulcro della rinascita culturale della città. La chiesa ha una pianta a croce greca, la facciata risale al Duecento con mosaici, bassorilievi e moltissime decorazioni provenienti dalle conquiste veneziane nel Vicino Oriente durante l’epoca delle crociate; sul portale i quattro cavalli, provenienti da Costantinopoli, mostrano al mondo la potenza della città, intanto all’interno le cinque cupole e i mosaici dorati ipnotizzano chiunque rendendo la basilica unica al mondo.

15:30 – Arsenale di Venezia e Biennale d’arte

Raggiungete a piedi l’Arsenale, sarà una bella passeggiata tra strade più o meno note. L’Arsenale di Venezia era l’antica sede dei cantieri navali della Serenissima, legato al suo periodo più florido e occupa una parte molto estesa della città insulare di Venezia. Grazie alle imponenti navi qui costruite, Venezia riuscì a contrastare i turchi nel mar Egeo e a conquistare le rotte del nord Europa. Ci sono due ingressi, usati anche in antichità, la porta di terra, simile ad un arco di trionfo e la porta d’acqua, con due torri, che permette l’ingresso delle imbarcazioni che provenivano da Canl Grande.

Nel 1999 iniziato il recupero di un’intera area dell’Arsenale concessa dalla Marina Militare alla Biennale d’arte che si è sviluppata in alcuni degli edifici più importanti dell’intero complesso: Corderie, Artiglierie, Tese del Cinquecento, Tese dell’Isolotto; l’obiettivo era rendere fruibili e funzionali gli spazi per le attività attraverso un approccio progettuale dinamico, in costante dialogo con l’architettura storica e monumentale dell’area. A differenza dei Giardini, all’Arsenale non si trovano solo padiglioni nazionali, ma la 56° mostra si apre con le opere di Bruce Nauman e di altri artisti come Steve Mc Queen e Ibrahim Mahama per poi continuare appunto con gli spazi espositivi nazionali.

18:30 – Libreria Acqua Alta

Lasciando l’Arsenale e tornando verso il Sestriere Cannaregio si raggiunge Campo Santa Maria Formosa, uno dei campi più vasti e urbanisticamente interessanti di Venezia, con al centro del campo la Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa. Poco distante, in Calle Lunga, sorge una delle librerie più originali che abbiate mai visto: Libreria Acqua Alta.

Qui troverete libri nuovi e usati, ma soprattutto li troverete ovunque: barche, gondole, vasche sono i contenitori dalle forme strane; inoltre qui si trovano antiche enciclopedie e vecchi libri che ormai diventano oggetti d’arredamento e di decoro. Gli appassionati di letteratura apprezzeranno di sicuro le varie sale, moltissimi testi su Venezia, ma anche libri su arte e cinema, una sala dedicatacompletamente a fumetti e best sellers e a far compagnia i quattro gatti del proprietario che gironzolano e dormono tranquillamente tra scaffali e pile di libri.

20:00 – Osteria alla Vedova
Un’antica osteria, un locale storico veneziano che risale a fine Ottocento, ideale a pranzo, a cena e all’ora dell’aperitivo. Per sedersi ai tavoli di questo tipico bacaro veneziano è quasi indispensabile prenotare: in pieno centro storico, La Vedova è sicuramente la più nota tra le osterie di Cannaregio per la sua cucina e per i suoi cicchetti, che si possono gustare in piedi all’ingresso, accompagnati dalle leggendarie polpettine, probabilmente le migliori della città, sempre calde, croccanti e morbide al tempo stesso, con una sfumatura d’aglio. L’ambiente è quello tipico dei bacari ottocenteschi, con specchi, mobili d’epoca, paioli in rame, luci basse che rievocano l’epoca ottocentesca e avvolgono i clienti in un’atmosfera ricercata e suggestiva.
 —————————— GIORNO 2 ——————————
Arrivati nuovamente a Santa Lucia prendete un battello per i Giardini, potete recuperare tempo facendo il biglietto la sera prima, quando non ci sono turisti in fila. I giardini dell’arsenale si trovano sul lato opposto rispetto alla stazione, quindi un po’ lontani da raggiungere a piedi. Il battello è anche un’ottima occasione per attraversare tutto il Canal Grande.
10:30 – I giardini dell’Arsenale e la Biennale d’arte
I Giardini sono la sede tradizionale delle Esposizioni d’arte della Biennale fin dalla prima edizione nel 1895, furono realizzati da Napoleone, agli inizi dell’Ottocento, dopo la distruzione di un quartiere popolare che comprendeva anche quattro chiese e tre conventi; i Giardini ospitano 29 padiglioni di paesi stranieri oltre al Padiglione Centrale. 
Alcuni padiglioni dei Giardini sono stati ideati e realizzati da celebri architetti: ad esempio quello austriaco, eretto nel 1934, è una delle ultime opere di Josef Hoffmann, mentre il padiglione della Finlandia è un prefabbricato montato nel 1956 con parti arrivate dal paese nordico, costruito interamente in legno, doveva durare una sola Biennale.
Dedicate alla visita di questo luogo l’intera mattinata, godetevi le opere dei vari artisti, partendo dal padiglione centrale, il più grande, e continuando con quelli dei vari paesi. Fate un vostro elenco dei padiglioni che vi incuriosiscono di più e cominciate da quelli, per poi visitarne il più possibile; di sicuro da non perdere sono il padiglione giapponese, quello francese, quello britannico, il padiglione dei paesi scandinavi, quello del Brasile.
Per pranzo programmate una sosta al bar dei giardini, li un panino o un’insalata vi permetteranno di non perdere tempo e continuare la passeggiata.
15:30 – L’Isola di San Michele
Dai giardini prendete il traghetto che vi porta a Murano; la traversata dura 15 minuti, ma prima di arrivare il battello costeggia e fa una fermata all’isola di San Michele, che dal 1837 ospita il cimitero della città. Essendo un cimitero multi-confessionale è suddiviso in cattolico, ortodosso, evangelico ed israelita, dove ogni zona sembra completamente diversa dalla precedente. Questi luoghi hanno sempre un certo fascino, inoltre nelle grandi città ospitano le tombe di grandi personaggi, dei veri monumenti alla memoria, dove in tanti si recano continuamente. Il cimitero di San Michele è unico nel suo genere, innanzitutto perchè si trova su un piccolo isolotto, sembra perciò di entrare in un mondo che non ci appartiene, lontano dalla terra ferma e isolato ancora di più dal resto del mondo.
Lapidi e statue piangenti, l’emiciclo dei bambini e le tombe di personaggi più o meno noti avvolgono il tutto in un’aura di silenzioso mistero: qui sono sepolti personaggi e artisti famosi come il fisico Christina Doppler, il musicista Igor Stravinskij, il poeta Ezra Pound e l’impresario teatrale Serge de Diaghilev.
17:00 – Murano: l’isola di vetro
Ritornati all’ingresso del cimitero di San Michele, riprendete il traghetto e raggiungete Murano. Arrivati sull’isola sbarcherete su Fondamenta dei Vetrai, qui troverete chi vi indicherà la strada per visitare una vetreria, non evitatelo, anche se sicuramente vi troverete spalla a spalla con numerosi turisti, guardare un maestro vetraio all’opera, osservare con i propri occhi gli artigiani che modellano il vetro e lo trasformano in qualcosa di assolutamente perfetto è davvero un’esperienza unica.

Il resto dell’isola è una passeggiata tra i viottoli di una piccola Venezia, con numerose botteghe che vendono oggetti di vetro, ma anche piccoli gioielli d’arte come  la chiesa di San Pietro Martire, del XIV secolo, dove sono conservate opere di Bellini, Veronese e Tintoretto. Dopo una visita al Duomo in stile veneto-bizantino, con il pavimento in mosaico e la bellissima abside esterna, fate una passeggiata lungo le fondamenta di San Lorenzo, zona poco turistica, senza le numeroso vetrerie, che lasciano il posto alle case degli abitanti dell’isola e ai numerosi localini.

19:00 – Il Ghetto

Il concetto di ghetto ebraico nacque proprio qui a Venezia, nei primi del ‘500, quando il Senato della Serenissima decise che gli israeliti dovessero risiedere tutti in una stessa zona per poter essere meglio controllati. Il quartiere scelto era già in passato denominato ghetto, sede di numerose fonderie, la parola deriva dal verbo ghettare, azione compiuta nelle fonderie per la fabbricazione delle bombarde.

Il Ghetto, pur avendo perso oggi il ruolo di quartiere di segregazione, conserva ancora la sua atmosfera, ospitando numerose famiglie ebree oltre che negozietti kasher.


La prima cosa che colpisce è lo sviluppo in verticale di questa zona, infatti tra il Ghetto vecchio e il Ghetto nuovo troviamo i palazzi più alti della città, inoltre sono funzionanti ancora due sinagoghe; passeggiando per le calli non incontrerete molti turisti, godetevi perciò la passeggiata e il silenzio, ma prima di andare via programmate una sosta al Panificio Volpe, piccola bottega specializzata in dolci ebraici.

Il negozio è piccolo e semplice ed è frequentato da clienti fissi come una qualsiasi panetteria, nella vetrina si trovano dolci come le azzime, le bisse, le impade, le orecchiette di Amman e gli zuccherini, tutti biscotti secchi, a volte ripieni di pasta di mandorle o marmellata.

20:00 – Il Paradiso Perduto

La giornata chiudetela al Paradiso Perduto, localino nella zona delle fondamenta della Misericordia, un’osteria veneziana unica nel suo genere. Se andata li molto presto potrete trovare un tavolo libero, altrimenti, come abbiamo fatto noi, preparatevi un ricco piatto, scegliendo tra le prelibatezze in vetrina, pesce o carne, fritto o al forno e mangiate seduti lungo il canale, come tanti altri. I prezzi sono bassi, e per un piatto abbondante si spende meno di 10 €, il cibo è ottimo e il posto, unico nel suo genere, vi permetterà di conoscere altre persone.

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