Week end @ Napoli

postato in: All posts, Campania360°, Italia, Week end @ | 226

48 ore a Napoli, senza perdere neanche un attimo, camminate per i vicoli, chiudete gli occhi e le orecchie e aspirate i profumi che arrivano da ogni lato, poi cambiate, occhi aperti e infine ascoltate ciò che vi circonda.

Napoli non vi lascerà un attimo per rendervene conto, ma assorbirà tutta la vostra energia.

—————————— GIORNO 1 ——————————

09:00 – Metrò dell’Arte

Un aspetto di Napoli noto a pochi, Stazioni dell’Arte è un progetto nato con l’obiettivo di rendere più accoglienti i luoghi, che il cittadino vive quotidianamente

La stazione Università, progettata dall’architetto e designer Karim Rashid, ha creato un ambiente dal forte impatto visivo, grazie alle pareti luminose e alle grandi figure tridimensionali.

La seconda tappa è la stazione Toledo, progettata dell’architetto catalano Oscar Tusquets Blanca ha interessato anche l’area soprastante, trasformata in zona pedonale e riqualificata esteticamente; votata come la stazione più bella d’Europa ad ogni discesa appaiono nuovi scenari e giochi di luce, fino ad arrivare 40 m sotto il livello stradale, il tutto collegato con la superfice da un lucernario che lascia intravedere uno spicchio di cielo.

Inaugurata già nel 2002, la stazione Dante è stata progettata da Gae Aulenti, che ha ridisegnato il progetto anche dell’omonima piazza, rispettando l’antico progetto di Vanvitelli; si scoprono mosaici, grandi tele e installazioni contemporanee.

Le altre stazioni da non perdere sono Museo, Materdei, Salvator Rosa, Quattro giornate, Vanvitelli, visitabili in qualsiasi momento della giornata in un comodo week end cittadino.

11:30 – La terrazza del Paradiso [Castel Sant’Elmo e Museo del Novecento]

Dagli spalti di Castel Sant’Elmo si gode di una delle viste più belle della città, l’occhio spazia sull’orizzonte da Posillipo al Vesuvio, includendo l’intera città, Capri, Procida e Ischia.

Da non perdere anche una visita alle sale del castello e al Museo del Novecento, che contiene le opere realizzate nella città partenopea durante il cosiddetto secolo breve.

13:00 – I fornelli della Torretta [Ristorante Cibi Cotti]

Un’oasi nel traffico di Mergellina,  entrare nel mercato della Torretta è come ritrovarsi indietro di 200 anni. In un angolo del mercato coperto c’è Cibi Cotti, la trattoria che Donna Anna gestisce dal 1963; pochi tavoli, fornelli a vista e pentoloni in continua cottura, per offrire i piatti che vengono decisi giorno per giorno a seconda della spesa fatta al mercato.

14:30 – L’arte a Palazzo [Museo PAN]

Centro permanente di arte contemporanea il Palazzo delle Arti (PAN) offre spazi espositivi, spazi di consultazione, servizi e strumenti per l’incontro e lo studio delle opere e dei protagonisti dei linguaggi e delle forme dell’arte contemporanea: dalla pittura alla scultura, dall’architettura alla fotografia, dal design al cinema, dalla video-arte, al fumetto. Le sale del museo vengono sempre arricchiti di rassegne cinematografiche, laboratori ed eventi creativi; da non perdere una visita al nuovo spazio “Pan Kids”, dedicato ai più piccoli.

 16:30 – Le strade del Liberty

Uscendo dal Museo si può proseguire a piedi lungo tre delle strade più esclusive della città, dove si susseguono i negozi delle grandi firme dell’abbigliamento, gli atelier sartoriali e le gallerie d’arte; unendo allo shopping la visita dei grandi palazzi in stile liberty, costruiti nei primi anni del novecento napoletano. Via dei Mille, Via Filangieri, Via Chiaia, Piazza dei Martiri guidano il viaggiatore in una sorta di percorso ideale fino alle spalle della grande Piazza del Plebiscito.

 17:30 – Il caffè dei re [Caffè Gambrinus]

Imperdibile è una sosta al Caffè Gambrinus, per un caffè e per assaggiare uno dei dolci tipici, la sfogliatella, la pastiera o il babà. Anche il poeta D’Annunzio non potè fare a meno di fermarsi qui e proprio a questi tavoli compose la poesia “a’Vucchella”. Poco lontano, all’ingresso della Galleria Umberto I c’è la Sofgliatella Mary, per alcuni napoletani la più buona sfogliatella della città.

18:00 – La Belle Èpoque

Quando Napoli divenne parte del Regno d’Italia la zona dove sorgeva il Palazzo Reale era circondata da un lato da un grande spazio lastricato dove stazionavano carrozze e banchi del mercato, e dall’altro da un quartiere malfamato pieno di osterie e locande. La bonifica fu necessaria e diede luce a Piazza del Plebiscito e all’imponente Galleria Umberto I. Da non perdere è una visita al Teatro San Carlo e al Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano che ospita una famosa galleria d’arte dove sono conservate una tela di Gaspar van Wittel e l’ultimo Caravaggio: il Martirio di sant’Orsola.

19:00 – Il lungomare al tramonto [Via Caracciolo]

Proseguendo a piedi per il Borgo Santa Lucia si arriva facilmente su Via Caracciolo che unita a Via Partenope forma la passeggiata del Lungomare Liberato. Trasformato in un’enorme isola pedonale questo spaccato di Napoli mostra una faccia completamente diversa della città, i cittadini si sono appropriati di questo spazio, che oggi viene usato per fare sport, passeggiare, cercare tranquillità in una città in continuo movimento. Fermandosi ad uno dei numerosi chioschi lungo la strada si può optare per un aperitivo semplice: birra e tarallo caldo “nzogna e pepe”, tipico del lungomare o fermarsi al Caffè Al Barcadero, sotto il ponte di Santa Lucia che porta al Castel dell’Ovo.

week_end_napoli_itinerandi (6)

21:30 – Cena al Borgo Marinari

23:00 – Un drink sul mare

Chiaia è di sicuro la zona più frequentata e ricca di locali; passeggiando se ne trovano numerosi e per tutti i gusti, due consigliati sono di sicuro il Barril e più di tutti l’Enoteca Belledonne, buon vino e atmosfera tranquilla.

—————————— GIORNO 2 ——————————

 09:30 – Le botteghe dell’artigianato

Un piccolo itinerario nel centro antico di Napoli seguendo il percorso che porta alle piccole botteghe dell’artigianato locale. L’artigianato è da sempre un’attività primaria nell’economia locale e affascinanti sono le botteghe che praticano quest’arte: la Liuteria Calace fondata nel 1825 e a cui si deve la nascita del mandolino moderno da concerto; Persechella, un’antica cioccolateria nella quale si tengono laboratori per bambini e adulti; l’Officina della Tammora tiene viva la produzione artigianale di uno strumento legato alla danza della tammorriata. Un interessante visita deve essere fatta anche alla bottega di Lucio Ferrigno, l’artista porta avanti l’antichissima tradizione dei fiori di seta introdotta nel XVII secolo dalle suore che nei conventi realizzavano fiori finti con cera, stoffe e carta. In Vico Pazzariello 11 è nato negli anni scorsi il primo Teatro Stabile di Strada, in un basso napoletano si costruiscono marionette e si offre ad artisti di strada e burattinai ospitalità e un palcoscenico dove esibirsi. In via San Biagio dei Librai si intravede una piccola bottega, l’Ospedale delle Bambole, una tradizione antica iniziata nel 1800 in un luogo dove vengono a curarsi i sogni di bambini, e dove è possibile ammirare una collezione straordinaria per numero e qualità.

Il percorso non può che terminare tra gli innumerevoli banchi di San Gregorio Armeno, la via dei presepi, dove è non può mancare una visita alla Scarabattola, una fucina di idee, di creatività e di fantasia, un omaggio alla tradizione partenopea che si richiama al presepe settecentesco e alla rappresentazione del profano quotidiano.

 week_end_napoli_itinerandi (5)

11:00 – Solidarietà, storia e arte

Se vale la pena visitare il Pio Monte della Misericordia per ammirare una delle opere più famose del Caravaggio, le sette opere di Misericordia, nonché altre tele di pregevole bellezza, una capatina deve essere anche fatta per il valore che esprime questo luogo. Fondato nel 1602 da un gruppo di nobili napoletani per assistere ammalati e bisognosi, ancora oggi  il Pio Monte della Misericordia presta la sua opera di beneficenza per una serie di istituzioni, tra cui Orfanotrofio S. Maria della Provvidenza, l’ Ospedale Psichiatrico Giudiziario e il Carcere Minorile di Nisida.

13:00 – Street Food

A Napoli ormai sono pochi i posti dove è possibile mangiare per strada. Il centro antico offre ancora questa possibilità, passeggiando per Via dei Tribunali si possono assaggiare le specialità classiche dello street food napoletano: crocchè, frittatine di pasta, pizze fritte, la famosa pizza a portafoglio, pizze cresciute. I posti dove fermarsi si susseguono uno dopo l’altro, la Pizzeria del Presidente, Pizzeria Di Matteo, Pizzeria ai Decumani e la Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo, Pizzeria Donna Regina e Pizzeria Lombardi (tutte dispongono anche di servizio ai tavoli).

 14:00 – Un giardino (quasi) segreto

Palazzo Venezia è stata per lunghi secoli residenza dei consoli della Serenissima. Abbandonato per anni oggi il giardino, situato al secondo piano del palazzo e circondato da altri edifici. Luogo di pace e tranquillità, vale la pena visitarlo anche per le mostre di arti minori organizzate nel palazzo e visitabili gratuitamente.

15:00 – Lo spettacolo dell’arte e dell’immateriale

L’Ex Asilo Filangieri dal 2012 è diventato uno spazio aperto autogestito o per meglio dire dove si attua una pratica di gestione condivisa e partecipata di uno spazio pubblico dedicato alla cultura. Il Collettivo La Balena che coordina le iniziative è un gruppo di attori, registi teatrali, cinematografici e radiofonici, documentaristi, scrittori, danzatori, musicisti, fotografi, disegnatori, pittori, scenografi, grafici, tecnici del suono e delle luci, organizzatori e tutte le altre figure professionali necessarie all’industria culturale. Ogni giorno vengono organizzati laboratori, spettacoli, iniziative e mostre libere per sfruttare uno spazio che l’amministrazione aveva abbandonato da anni.

17:00 – I cunicoli sotto la città

Lo spettacolo di Napoli Sotterranea è unico, un complesso di cunicoli e cavità scavate nel tufo poste nel sottosuolo. Larghi quel poco che permetteva il passaggio di un uomo, i cunicoli che erano dell’acquedotto si diramano spesso in tutte le direzioni, con lo scopo di alimentare fontane ed abitazioni situate in diverse aree della città superiore. Fu solo agli inizi del XX secolo che si smise di scavare nel sottosuolo per l’approvvigionamento idrico e si abbandonò una rete di cunicoli e cisterne di oltre 2 milioni di m², diffusa per tutta la città.

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19:00 – La Cappella magica

A Napoli sono da sempre legate leggende sugli aspetti esoterici della città, dovute anche alla proverbiale superstizione dei cittadini. Uno dei luoghi che conserva questa fama è la Cappella del Principe di San Severo; la leggenda narra che la Cappella fosse sorta su un antico tempio dedicato alla dea Iside, certo è che il suo proprietario Raimondo di Sangro abbiano da sempre suscitato interesse e curiosità tra gli abitanti del quartiere. Si diceva infatti che il principe fosse un alchimista, uno stregone nonché primo Grande Maestro della massoneria. L’opera più importante conservata nella cappella è di sicuro il Cristo Velato, un Cristo morente interamente ricoperto di un velo di marmo che fa corpo unico con la statua stessa. L’effetto straordinario fa sembrare quasi che il velo sia stato posato successivamente sul corpo.

20:30 – Antica Spaghetteria Francesco e Maria Sofia

In un vicolo del centro storico, di fronte piazzetta Nilo, questa trattoria dalle dimensioni ridotte prepara piatti della cucina tipica e vino di ottima qualità. I prezzi sono contenuti, se gli spaghetti solo la specialità anche gli antipasti non deludono.

 22:00 – Un pezzo di New Orleans

Un locale che non ti aspetti, luci soffuse, tavoli e sedie in legno, jazzisti che si alternano sul palco. Il Bourbon Street ti porta lontano chilometri dalla città e ti catapulta in un ambiente dalle luci basse, circondati da strumenti musicali, un’esperienza da non perdere nelle notti napoletane.

Da leggere prima della partenza: Il ventre di Napoli (di Matilde Serao)

Da guardare prima della partenza: Così parlo Bellavista (Luciano De Crescenzo – 1984); Passione (John Turturro – 2010); L’oro di Napoli (Vittorio De Sica – 1954); Into Paradiso (Paola Randi – 2010); Miseria e Nobiltà (Mario Mattioli – 1954)

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