28 Giu 2013

Week End @ Milano

di | postato in: All posts, Italia, Week end @ | 913

Basta camminare in qualunque quartiere di Milano, qualunque stradina, per essere risucchiati da innumerevoli vortici che ti sbalzano da un punto all’altro, senza sosta. I contrasti che questa città genera sono visibili ad ogni angolo, c’è chi la odia e chi la ama, chi se ne innamora chi vuole scappare, la realtà è che Milano è da secoli protagonista incontrastata della storia, dell’arte, della cultura del nostro paese.

—————————— GIORNO 1 ——————————

10:00 – La fabbrica dell’Arte (www.hangarbicocca.org)
Ex stabilimento industriale dell’Ansaldo, l’Hangar Bicocca è un vivace centro di promozione ed esposizione dell’Arte contemporanea. Animato da numerosi eventi, mostre fotografiche, installazioni è uno dei simboli della Milano in continua evoluzione, artistica e proiettata al futuro. C’è uno spazio per bambini e un impianto per conferenze e proiezioni.

11:00 – Arte contemporanea a Lambrate
Area un tempo industriale, oggi riconvertita al sacro verbo dell’arte, Lambrate è periferia della metropoli, ma ormai sempre più centro dell’arte contemporanea e del design. La ricetta è il design avanguardista e sperimentale, la capacità di “fare sistema” e, non ultimo, l’appeal post industriale dell’intera area. Tra gli insediamenti permanenti: la Scuola Politecnica di Design, il Centro Italiano di Architettura ACMA e la redazione di Abitare, nonché le gallerie dei nuovi gotha dell’arte contemporanea: Galleria Massimo De Carlo, negli spazi industriali dell’ex fabbrica Faema, lo Spaziouno MDA, la Plusdesign Gallery, la Galleria d’Arte di Mimmo Scognamiglio.

13:30 – Pranzo – Santeria (via Ettore Paladini, 8 – http://www.santeriamilano.it)
Oltre 500 mq, un luogo per la mente, uno spazio dove le ore passano tranquille, una caffetteria dove poter mangiare hamburger e piatti del giorni ascoltando i dj che si alternano alla console. Da Santeria inoltre si possono trovare i libri delle migliori case editrici indipendenti italiane, una selezione di marchi d’abbigliamento, una sezione musica, con molti vinili ad edizioni limitate, box set, stampe rare, pressing per audiofili e un’area mostre ed eventi.

14:30 – Passeggiando sottovoce per Milano
In quanti conoscono il Quadrilatero del Silenzio a Milano? Un’oasi racchiusa in  quattro vie, Bastioni di Porta Venezia, Viale Bianca Maria, Corso Venezia e Corso Monforte, dove si riscoprono le storie delle antiche famiglie nobiliari, degli scrittori ed artisti. Si inizia da Palazzo Fidia, dove fu installato il primo citofono moderno: un orecchio in bronzo realizzato secondo le più avanguardistiche ricerche sull’udito. Villa Necchi
Campiglio, la casa è immersa nel verde, conserva alcuni capolavori della pittura italiana del Novecento. Palazzo Bovara di fine ‘700, ospitò lo scrittore francese Stendhal. Raffinati ed eleganti banchetti e sfilate con Maria Teresa d’Austria si svolgevano a Palazzo Rocca Saporiti, voluto da Gaetano Belloni, diventato ricco grazie alla gestione del gioco d’azzardo.
Proseguendo su Via Palestro si arriva ai Giardini Reali e a Villa Beljoioso, cuore verde per lo svago dei milanesi, luogo d’incontro degli Scapigliati. Dove sorgevano gli orti dei Cappuccini oggi sorge una residenza di lusso in stile dèco: Palazzo Buonarroti Carpaccio Giotto. Vale la pena allungarsi ad ammirare Casa Galimberti, completamente decorata con piastrelle figurate in ceramica, ferri battuti e motivi floreali in cemento, uno dei pezzi più brillanti del Liberty milanese. La visita non può che concludersi a Villa Invernizzi; la villa è privata e così non è possibile intrufolarsi nel giardino, ma la bellezza del luogo la si può cogliere sbirciando attraverso il cancello per ammirare la magnifica colonia di fenicotteri che vivono in questo parco da decenni.

17:00 – Botteghe dell’artigianato
Tre tappe, nel cuore della Milano da bere, sbirciando dalle vetrine le botteghe degli artigiani. La Tipografia di Giorgio Upiglio in Via Fara, aperta nel 1965, si è distinta nel corso degli anni per i lavori con Man Ray e Marcel Duchamp, Günter Grass e Joe Tilson. Con la Metro2 arrivate ad Abbiategrasso e raggiungete Via Montegani 31, sede della Compagnia Colla (http://www.marionettecolla.org), artisti delle marionette dal 1860, forgiano e dipingano teste, mani, piedi, ricamano piccoli abiti e preparano scenografie e attrezzature. Fanno sognare centinaia di bambini, con gli spettacoli che si tengono periodicamente nel piccolo teatro dei laboratori.

Laboratorio Colla

Su Via Agilulfo si raggiunge un giardino minuscolo, pieno di piante e biciclette, un’istituzione tutta italiana, un artigiano che ancora oggi lavora e dipinge a mano i telai delle biciclette che anche Fausto Coppi ha portato su strada. Ad 85 anni Giuseppe Drali non è solo un artigiano, è un’artista, e il suo laboratorio un patrimonio da tutelare, la Pokerissima, il suo pezzo forte per gli amanti del ciclismo oggi è un cimelio raro da collezione.

19:30 – Aperitivo alla Cucina Fusetti (Via Mario Fusetti, 1 – Aperitivo 9 €)
Cucina Rock’n roll, piatti sardo/portoghesi, un aperitivo a poco prezzo e con piatti cucinati bene; prenotando si ha la possibilità di fare l’aperitivo pedalando lungo i Navigli su un risciò.

21:00 – Indovina chi viene a cena? (http://www.mahksc.it/)
Ma’ Hidden Kitchen nasce dall’idea di voler condividere lo stesso tavolo con persone che non si conoscono. Basta iscriversi alla newsletter e mantenersi aggiornati sulle date e i menù, quando si decide di prenotare viene rivelato anche la location. Il menù cambia ogni volta, così come gli 8 ospiti che conoscerete durante questa originale cena.

23:00 – Al RAL8022 (Via Corsico, 3 – Cocktail a partire da 7 €)
Il locale ti avvolge completamente appena entri, l’arredamento minimal e in ferro scuro ha probabilmente ispirato il nome. Un locale eclettico nel cuore dei Navigli, esalta la serata con i cocktail che i due barman propongono. Per andare incontro alle esigenze di tutti si parla con le persone per capire ciò di cui hanno voglia in quel momento, al di là della classica drink list.

—————————— GIORNO 2 ——————————

09:00 – Colazione al Bar delle Ragazze (Via Cesariano, 8)
Bancone, qualche tavolo, Monica e Carla che ti sorridono, il mix giusto, accogliente e familiare, per cominciare una giornata carica al Moca Cafè , meglio conosciuto come Bar delle Ragazze. Brioche, la Charlotte di pere con panna e cannella o con la sfoglia di mele, la gente del quartiere ci viene a colazione o per la merenda.

09:30 – In bici sul Naviglio di Leonardo (Lunghezza totale 30 km)
Se cercate davvero qualcosa di originale da fare a Milano, la green way che unisce la città al fiume Adda è un’esperienza da non perdere.

Innanzitutto c’è da dire che il Naviglio della Martesana e l’antica strada che lo costeggia furono progettati da Leonardo da Vinci e inaugurati nel 1496; realizzata da poco tempo, l’attuale pista ciclabile è comoda per una passeggiata che attraversa cascine, ville sontuose, ponticelli, antichi casolari, borghi, giardini e orti.
La pista ciclabile inizia a Milano in Via Melchiorre Gioia e prosegue verso Cologno Monzese. A Vimodrone si esce completamente dai grossi centri urbani; poi si prosegue per Cernusco sul Naviglio, Gorgonzola, Bellinzago lombardo, Cassano d’Adda e Groppello d’Adda; qui si può ammirare l’antica ruota di legno del mulino cittadino.

I più allenati possono percorre l’intera pista, andata e  ritorno, in circa 3 ore, per chi invece preferisce una passeggiata rilassante si può pensare di dedicare al Naviglio l’intera giornata considerando che lungo il percorso quando si attraversano i centri abitati è possibile rifocillarsi presso i bar e  le trattorie o in alternativa sfruttare la Metro2 di Milano, direzione Gessate, che ha fermate in tutti i centri fino a Bellinzago lombardo.

La Belle Aurore (Via Privata Abamonti, 1 – Piatto unico 8 €)
In questo storico bistrot tra il parigino e il viennese, c’è anche la Milano nebbiosa d’altro secolo. Ideale per una pausa pranzo, ogni giorno vengono proposti piatti semplici e ben preparati, ottimo per chiacchierare e bersi una bottiglia a prezzi onesti.

15:30 – Un giro in centro
Una passeggiata pomeridiana nella zona più classica di Milano; una visita al Museo del Novecento (museodelnovecento.org – Biglietto 5 €), dove è esposto il Quarto Stato e ricco di opere di Boccioni, Modigliani, De Chirico, Sironi, Fontana; il Duomo e la Galleria sono i due gioielli della Milano borghese, sembrerà in pochi attimi di essere catapultati sul vecchio set di “Ieri, oggi e domani” di De Sica.

17:00 – La Signora del Design (Showroom Via Matteo Bandello, 14 – www.rossanaorlandi.com/)
Una vecchia fabbrica di cravatte, Rossana Orlandi, una donna dal portamento impeccabile, oggetti e opere d’arte che si confondono sui banchi; uno spazio di rara bellezza che rappresenta la massima espressione del lifestyle italiano. Le opere d’arte non ci circondano, si entra dentro ad un’enorme opera d’arte, un Paese delle Meraviglie in perfetto stile milanese.

18:00 – Una pausa pomeridiana NonostanteMarras (Via Cola di Rienzo, 8 – Aperitivo 10 €)
Lo store dello stilista Antonio Marras sorge in una vecchia officina, fuori dal traffico cittadino. Un punto di ritrovo e un bellissimo showroom; tra muri scrostati e vecchi mobili recuperati, oltre ad abiti e accessori disegnati dallo stilista, ci sono libri, fiori, opere d’arte, tutti da ammirare mentre si beve qualcosa e si assaggiano buonissimi dolci siciliani.

19:00 – Chiesa di San Bernardino alle Ossa (Via Carlo Giuseppe Merlo, 4)
Non si può non rimanere colpiti da questa chiesa situata in via Brolo tra il Verziere, l’antico mercato ortofrutticolo e piazza Santo Stefano. Risalente al XIII secolo all’esterno l’edificio non è particolarmente appariscente. Mentre a destare una certa curiosità è la cappella-ossario, un piccolo ambiente con un piccolo altare e contornato da una serie di ex voto e reliquie, sopra i quali si trova una volta riccamente affrescata con angeli e nuvole sullo sfondo di un cielo azzurro.
Lungo le pareti sono conservate ossa umane appartenute ai morti dell’ex ospedale di San Barnaba, vittime della peste oppure traslate da cimiteri seicenteschi soppressi. I teschi chiusi nelle cassette sopra la parte esterna sono quelli di condannati a morte.

20:30 – Aperitivo all’Ostello Bello (Via Medici, 4 – http://www.ostellobello.com)
Piazzatosi 4° nella classifica 2013 dei migliori ostelli del mondo, all’Ostello Bello si può fare colazione, pranzo o l’aperitivo, l’ambiente è accogliente, giovane, colorato e freak. All’Ostello Bello si ascolta musica, si fanno feste, si assiste a proiezioni video; ogni ultimo sabato o domenica del mese c’è Mercato Bello dalle 12.00 alle 21.00 dove è possibile trovare oggetti di design, artigianato, eco e ricycle.

22:00 – Il Club segreto (Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 43)
Chi conosce Club 1930? Nessuno, si conosce soltanto il bar che permette l’accesso; attraverso una piccola porta segreta, allo splendido club, lugo d’altri tempi, che si trova nel retro bottega. Atmosfera da salotto, pochi posti, molto raccolto, buona musica e cocktails eccellenti. Unico modo per accedervi, andate al MAG Cafè di Ripa di Porta Ticinese 43 e chiedete di essere invitati.

Da leggere prima della partenza: Milano misteriosa (di Michele Gazo e Maurizio Tortorella); 101 Storie su Milano che non ti hanno mai raccontato (di Francesca Belotti e Luca Margheriti)

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