8 Nov 2013

Week End @ Genova

di | postato in: All posts, Italia, Week end @ | 1.122

—————————— GIORNO 1 ——————————

10:00 – Lo sguardo verso il mare
Non si può scindere Genova dal mare: la storia e la cultura lo dimostrano e passeggiando per la città non manca vicolo che te lo faccia dimenticare.
Quale luogo più adatto per iniziare la giornata; il sole illumina la passeggiata del Porto Antico, i nomi delle strade ricordano epoche di mercati, commerci e grossi velieri: via della Mercanzia, piazza Caricamento, via Pescherie, accolgono passanti, teen ager in skate, giovani coppiette.
C’è bisogno di iniziare la giornata con una sostanziosa colazione, a Genova non possiamo che farlo con la focaccia, semplice, ripiena, con formaggio.

Il Porto Antico custodisce numerose attrazioni della Genova turistica, la più classica è il famoso Acquario, scrigno di habitat naturali, specie marine uniche. Più avanti il Museo dei bambini, il Galeone dei pirati, set del film di Polanski, il Museo del mare, il Sommergibile Nazario Sauro e dal lato opposto il Bigo, una sorta di ragno gigante che grazie ad un ascensore permette di osservare la città dall’alto.

11:00 – Un dedalo di Caróggi 
Centro storico più esteso d’Europa, è così che si presenta la città. Il rischio di perdervi non c’è, vi troverete a sbucare sempre su una strada già vista; partite da Palazzo San Giorgio, sede della prima banca d’Europa e proseguite per i portici di Sottoripa, con il loro susseguirsi di botteghe, tra profumi e colori, vi portano nel cuore della Genova marinara, dove tutto è tanto; i piccoli negozi vendono l’utile e l’inutile senza che faccia troppa differenza, le insegne si confondono e le antiche pietre assorbono gli odori da chissà quanti anni. Il mare, in passato, arrivava a lambire i portici e i banchi esponevano ogni sorta di mercanzia proveniente dalle navi.
Dopo cercate Vico dei Caprettari, li troverete l’antica Barberia Giacalone, inserita tra i beni FAI. Basta raggiungere l’ingresso per capirne il motivo: la Barberia Giacalone è un gioiello dell’Art Decò, un angolo prezioso della città, dietro la porta si conserva un’epoca lontana. All’interno è tutto un riflettersi di specchi, di vetri colorati, di tinte accese; sedetevi su una delle poltrone e aspettate il vostro turno, all’uscita vi verrà voglia di andare a ballare il charleston.

Come ultima tappa allungatevi fino a Porta Soprana, un tempo la principale porta d’accesso alla città; da quelli parti, ci sono le case di due grandi del passato: Cristoforo Colombo, e Niccolò Paganini.

13:00 – Bocadâze 
Con un mezzo pubblico raggiungete il Belvedere Edoardo Firpo, la celebre terrazza sul borgo di Boccadasse, uno dei luoghi più belli mai visti. Il nome si deve alla forma dell’insenatura su cui sorge, che dall’alto sembra una bocca d’ase, vale a dire bocca d’asino in genovese; di questo luogo incantato i genovesi non sono mai stanchi, è l’orgoglio dei vecchi pescatori e dei giovani innamorati. L’acqua che si infrange sugli scogli ruba i colori alle case che sembrano gettate ad occhi chiusi da un pugno divino. Sullo sfondo svettano le terrazze del Monumento di Quarto e ancora più in là il promontorio di Portofino.
Passeggiare per Boccadasse significa ascoltare, osservare e chiacchierare con chi si incontra per le strette viuzze o tra i sassi della spiaggia.
Vista l’ora e i profumi che arrivano dalle case colorate, vi consigliamo di rilassarvi ai tavolini della Trattoria Osvaldo, la più antica del borgo, con una cucina a base di pesce che esalta le tradizioni di un’antica città di mare.

16:00 – Shopping culinario
Ritornate nel centro, su Via XX Settembre e cercate l’entrata del Mercato Orientale. La location è incredibile, nel senso che non si trova affatto nei carrogi, ma nel centro del centro della zona chic di Genova.
Il Mercato orientale è un vero e proprio centro commerciale dove generi tra loro diversi coesistono, formando una grande vetrina illuminata e colorata sulla strada principale della città. I banchi ospitano un’infinità di prodotti mangerecci: frutta, verdura, pesce, carne, spezie, prodotti già cucinati, panetteria, prodotti della tradizione e provenienti da terre lontane.

Girate dappertutto, in lungo e in largo e alla fine arriverete alla nostra stessa conclusione: se quello che cercate non lo trovate qui, allora significa che non esiste!

19:30 – Drinking on the wave
Il nome è davvero originale, il posto è fenomenale. Affacciati sul porto di Genova, su una chiatta galleggiante, col sole che tramonta davanti a noi. Banano Tsunami (Ponte Embriaco – Porto Antico) è conosciuto da tutti in città, famoso per i suoi aperitivi musicali e per gli ottimi drink. Da tenere presente anche per un pranzo o un dopocena frizzante, noi ce lo siamo goduti all’ora dell’aperitivo.

20:30 – Finalmente pesto
“Questa è una trattoria…”, così vi accoglie il cartello all’ingresso della Trattoria da Ugo (Via dei Giustiniani, 86), nel centro storico. Una delle più vecchie della città, menù tipicamente genovese, subisce spesso modifiche e variazioni anche a seconda di ciò che è disponibile al mercato. Ma noi siamo qui per assaggiare il più tipico dei piatti: Trenette al pesto. Pasta fatta in casa, cotta nei tegamini di terracotta, preparate con pesto e patate, alla vecchia maniera; altro piatto assaggiato pansoti al sugo di noce, altra prelibatezza.
Alle pareti vecchie stoviglie, strumenti di lavoro, lanterne e lampadari. Sopra, un bel soffitto a cassettoni in legno.
Il personale è gentile e simpatico, l’atmosfera è davvero familiare, ci si sente accolti e il conto finale non è per niente salato. Un ottimo posto.

23:00 – Cocktail come emozioni sensoriali

Per finire la giornata vi consigliamo un posto magico: il Face Cocktail Bar, in via Santa Zita 24 r, zona stazione Brignole. Il Face è un american bar dall’aspetto moderno, dove domina la luce verde e un grande tavolo retroilluminato, il locale “cambia faccia” a seconda della serata. Una certa magia si crea con i Nitro Cocktails, che sfruttano l’utilizzo dell’azoto liquido e i principi della cucina molecolare; il barman diventa quasi un alchimista, e accanto allo shaker compariranno sifoni e pentole per dare nuove consistenze e nuovi sapori.

Per chi ama i sapori dolci, un cocktail caramellato o un jelly drink servito nel classico barattolo della marmellata rappresenta la scelta giusta; se dall’esperienza liquida si vuole passare a quella solida, si possono assaggiare gelatine di Cosmopolitan e Negroni. Viene lasciato spazio all’improvvisazione: vengono proposte delle bolle di Aperol immerse nello spumante, che al primo contatto con i denti sprigionano il liquido dando vita ad uno Spritz.
Per i curiosi: Quando ancora non si chiamava “movida”: Genova di notte. 

—————————— GIORNO 2 ——————————

09:30 – Colazione alle Vigne
La giornata la iniziamo facendo colazione in  Piazza delle Vigne, una delle aperture più suggestive della città vecchia. Santa Maria delle Vigne è luogo di incontri ravvicinati, senza prendere nessun appuntamento basta fermarsi qualche minuto per incontrarsi, come se si trattasse della piazzetta del paese. Seduti ai tavolini, iniziando la giornata con focaccia al formaggio e cappuccino, osserviamo gli artisti della città vecchia, gli squilibrati, i pensionati e i pensatori, fra tazze di tè e tazzine di caffè, bicchieri di birra, dialetto genovese e pagine di giornale. Qui ogni giorno nascono sogni e progetti, buona parte dei quali non verranno mai realizzati.

10:30 – Dolcetti, cafè e vecchi salotti
Genova è anche cafè, salotti, e chiacchierate. Per scoprire l’anima della città storica immergetevi sotto le volte della Galleria Mazzini; l’ottocentesco salotto della cultura genovese, con i cafè frequentati in quegli anni da poeti e intellettuali con il panciotto, i lunghi baffi e gli orologi da taschino, oggi emblema di una città che non ha mai smesso di guardarsi allo specchio.

Continuate a passeggiare e scoprirete diverse caffetterie piccole e strette dove si sta in piedi, si fanno due chiacchiere con i baristi e ci si concentra su una sola cosa: il caffè. Scovate la Caffetteria Lomellini è situata tra l’omonima via e le trafficate Via del Campo e Via di Fossatello. Pochi metri quadri, un bancone, una nutrita schiera di persone in piedi e caffè in ogni variante, dalla gianduia al cocco, con panna o senza. Nella Caffetteria degli Orefici (Via degli Orefici), ci si richiama ad Eduardo de Filippo e alla sua celebre frase in cui sosteneva che per rendere felice un uomo bastava una tazzina di caffè, presa tranquillamente. Anche qui si sta rigorosamente in piedi, tra le scelte c’è il caffè con i frutti di bosco o alle nocciole.


La passeggiata tra questi piccoli scrigni di Genova non può che terminare con la Confetteria di Pietro Romanengo di Via Soziglia. Un gioiello rimasto immutato dal 1814, un salotto signorile in cui si possono gustare, tra marmi e legni pregiati, le specialità dell’antica confetteria-cioccolateria, dove fiori, frutta, aromi e colori sono lavorati con la maestria di chi ben conosce i segreti dell’arte genovese della canditura.

13:00 – I forni di Zena
L’ora del pranzo è un ottima occasione per scoprire la città; a Genova infatti si mangia per strada da sempre grazie ai numerosi forni. Noi ve ne segnaliamo alcuni, a voi scoprirne altri: Antico forno della Casana (Vico della Casana 17/19 R), arrivati al bancone non saprete cosa scegliere. Il dubbio è tra focaccia e torte salate. Della prima ne troverete di tutti i tipi, con olive, pomodori, zucchine, aromatica, al formaggio, focacce secche e croccanti. Altra tappa è da Mario, in via San Vincenzo 61r, produttore storico di focaccia e farinata. Se invece preferite un dolce, optate per La Forneria di Piazza Colombo 22 r, dove potrete farvi tagliare una fetta di torta da mangiare subito, seduti comodamente sul bordo della fontana al centro della piazza. Per chi ha ancora voglia di dolce raggiungete Via XXV Aprile 22 r, troverete Le dolcezze salate di Angelo. Pezzo forte sono i baci di dama, alla nocciola, al miele e alle mandorle o anche i muffin alla cannella con il cuore di confettura d’arancio.

14:30 – Un angolo di Giappone
Dopo pranzo cerchiamo tutti un po’ di riposo e noi vi consigliamo di godervelo a Villetta Negro (Piazza Corvetto); antica residenza nobile oggi ospita il Museo di Arte orientale, contornato da un magnifico parco ricco di tranquillità e silenzio. Raggiungete prima la balconata che affaccia sulla città e dopo, se ne avrete voglia fate un giro nella strana struttura alle vostre spalle: una sorta di casa giapponese, dove dentro sono conservate le opere della collezione privata Chiossone, raccolte nei suoi 23 anni vissuti nel paese del Sol Levante.
Diretti verso l’uscita, la calma che vi ha accompagnato nel corso della visita vi seguirà fino alla soglia tra il parco e il resto della città, rendendo così ancora più evidente il distacco tra l’ambiente meditativo di questo angolo di Giappone e il traffico genovese.

16:30 – Spazio ai più piccoli
Genova offre tanti spazi a chi viaggia con bambini, ma anche agli adulti che hanno voglia di immergersi in mondi colorati.
Il primo luogo dove lasciare spazio alla fantasia è l’Albero delle Lettere (Via di Canneto Il Lungo, 38), una libreria dedicata agli under 12. Vecchi giocattoli e lampadari dal design accartocciato fanno capolino dai soffitti; nelle sale, tra sgabelli colorati e tavoli ad altezza ginocchio si trovano pubblicazioni dalle grafiche moderne e coinvolgenti: da edizioni spettacolari sulle favole di Jean de LaFontaine al piccolo Adolf che racconta una pagina di storia nota e terribile. C’è il libro per spiegare chi era Keith Haring a un bambino, o le guide per piccoli viaggiatori. Numerosi sono anche i laboratori che continuamente vengono proposti, con letture ad alta voce o atelier creativi.
La seconda tappa invece è Artitudine (Via Luccoli). Vi toccherà infilarvi in un vicolo cieco, ma ci sarà un tappeto rosso a guidarvi fino all’ingresso; all’interno troverete giocattoli di ogni tipo e prevenienti da diverse parti del mondo. Dai peluches a vecchi meccanismi in legno, dalle bambole di pezza ai vestitini cuciti da una sarta genovese, lampade vestiti, elfi di stoffa. Pochi metri quadrati, ben nascosti e custodi di una magia difficile da rivivere oggi.

19:00 – Caccia alla Lepre
Per l’aperitivo di oggi restiamo nei vicoli e precisamente alla Lepre (Piazzetta Lepre), uno dei locali più alternativi e affollati della movida genovese. Il posto è sempre pieno, sul bancone, illuminato dai faretti che hanno la forma di vecchie lampade a olio, scorrono velocemente bicchieri di ogni forma e dimensione. Qui potete assaggiare un po’ di tutto, da cocktail classici, a qualcosa di più raffinato.  La piazza di fronte al locale, con tavolini e ombrelloni è un buon rifugio quando si vuole bere e fumare in una serata piovosa. Baluardo della movida alternativa, La Lepre rappresenta un modo piacevole di cominciare la serata, un posto tranquillo dove prendere un aperitivo all’aperto durante la settimana.

21:30  – In giro a caccia di fantasmi
Genova è leggenda, esoterismo e vicoli pieni di storia. Coi suoi antichi palazzi nobiliari è teatro di spettrali apparizioni che nei secoli si sono moltiplicate, tracce di presenze del passato  frutto della credenza popolare e di avvenimenti storici, spesso tragici come omicidi o suicidi.
Il triangolo degli spettri inizia in fondo a Via Orefici, a Piazza Banchi. Qui sorge la singolare chiesa di San Pietro, sopraelevata rispetto alla piazza, sulla sua scalinata fu pugnalato il musicista Andrea Stradella, colpevole di essersi innamorato di una sua allieva, già amante di un nobile veneziano; su queste scale, in certe sere udirete struggenti note, l’ultima melodia del maestro Stradella.
Addentratevi nei vicoli e raggiungete Piazza San Matteo, alla sinistra della chiesa sorge Palazzo Branca Doria. Tra quelle mura il nobile Branca Doria assassinò il suocero; personaggio citato anche da Dante nell’inferno, vaga ancora tra le colonne della piazza, con le mani sporche di sangue, lasciando una traccia di sangue rossastra su una delle colonne di marmo della piazza.
Ultima tappa è Campo Pisano, il posto è suggestivo e la piazza sembra abbracciata dai palazzi che la circondano. Qui, dopo la battaglia della Meloria, nel 1284, furono seppelliti i novemila prigionieri pisani. Le loro anime senza pace son ancora presenti e nelle notti di tempesta si possano ancora scorgere le sagome che in catene risalgono la scalinata che dalla Marina porta in Campo Pisano.
Dopo questa bella passeggiata non ci resta che augurarvi buonanotte.

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