Praga e i vicoli dell’oro

postato in: All posts, Europa | 373

Come un calderone in cui un esperto alchimista mescola materiali di varia natura affinché diventino oro, così a Praga stili e correnti si fondono per creare l’emblema della più misteriosa capitale europea.

Correnti moderne, edifici storici, castelli che sovrastano la città e ponti che uniscono il passato con il presente, sono solo alcune delle caratteristiche di una città misteriosa, affascinate e a tratti oscura.
I collegamenti tra Praga e il mondo esoterico non sono un mistero, la storia ne ha lasciate varie tracce nel corso dei secoli. E tutto questo contribuisce al fascino misterioso della città delle 100 torri.
Rodolfo II d’Asburgo trasferì la capitale dell’impero da Vienna alla sua amatissima Praga e qui  fondò “l’accademia alchimistica”, chiamando a raccolta nomi eccellenti della sua epoca. Più che a questioni di regno, il sovrano manifestò interesse per la ricerca dell’eternità; inoltre era un uomo assetato di conoscenza e si circondò dei migliori scienziati, astronomi (primo tra tutti Keplero), pittori, artigiani, poeti, musicisti, artisti, astrologi, e infine alchimisti.

La leggenda narra che sotto il suo regno i principali laboratori di alchimia fossero al Vicolo d’Oro (Zlatá ulička).

Saranno sicuramente leggende, così come le molte che avvolgono il resto della città, e forse un tempo era realmente la strada in cui risiedevano gli artigiani dell’oro, ma è invitante l’idea di attraversare il vicolo e immaginare gli alchimisti che passavano giorno e notte alla ricerca di formule magiche, le più importanti delle quali dovevano trasformare metalli in oro o la vita in vita eterna. Il vicolo è formato da casupole con porte e stanze piccolissime, e in alcune il tetto è alto poco più di un metro. In una di queste, al numero 22, viveva Franz Kafka.

Il vicolo, anche se estremamente interessante, è solo una piccola parte del complesso del Castello di Praga (Prazsky Hrad). Alto e arrampicato oltre Malà Strana, il Castello si raggiunge a piedi risalendo l’affascinante Via Nerudova, oppure più comodamente con la metro o i tram che fermano a Malà Strana.

Come lo descriveva Franz Kafka, in lontananza il Castello sembra inaccessibile e misterioso.
All’interno, invece, è possibile visitare la Cappella della Croce, l’immensa Sala Spagnola, la Galleria Rodolfina e alcuni capolavori di Tiziano, Tintoretto, Rubens e del Veronese insieme ad alcuni capolavori del barocco boemo.

Attraverso un passaggio ad archi si giunge alla più imponente chiesa di Praga, la Cattedrale di San Vito con le splendide vetrate di Alphons Mucha, principale esponente dell’Art Nouveau.
Inoltre, è possibile visitare la Cancelleria di Boemia dove ebbe luogo la famosa Defenestrazione di Praga. I nobili, infuriati per la perdita dei privilegi, scaraventarono dalle finestre i governatori cattolici (interessante, no?!?).

Superato il complesso dedicato a San Giorgio, che custodisce Vanitas, la statua di Santa Brigida con il ventre pieno di serpenti, si raggiungono le Torri di Dalibor e delle Polveri e il celebre vicolo d’oro. La Torre di Dalibor prende il nome da un cavaliere che vi fu imprigionato insieme al suo violino. Condannato a morte, suonava ogni sera commuovendo gli abitanti del Castello che si accorsero della sua morte solo quando non sentirono più il suono straziante del suo violino.

La visita al Castello termina passando per il Palazzo Lobkowicz ed entrando nei Giardini Reali che accolgono una vasta gamma di piante singolari, considerato il freddo di Praga. In questi giardini per la prima volta vennero coltivati i tulipani…

Ogni pietra del castello, così come della città, protegge il suo mistero, custodisce la sua leggenda. Storie che narrano di re, regine e cavalieri, ma anche di monaci, spose e monelli. Faust che aveva venduto l’anima al diavolo… E naturalmente maghi, strane creature, geni, ninfe e spiritelli…

Leggenda narra che l’anima del re Rodolfo vaghi ancora nella città, tra i vicoli e gli angoli segreti della Praga magica. Allora possiamo immaginare di proseguire il nostro viaggio con lui, o il suo fantasma.
Per inseguirlo bisogna attraversare il Ponte Carlo, vagare per il quartiere Mala Strana, o addentrarsi nel ghetto ebraico. Basta avvicinarci a lui, allungare il braccio e farci guidare nella Praga magica ed esoterica…


Il Ponte Carlo, Karlův most, è forse il capolavoro esoterico più prezioso di Praga. Secondo le leggende, per la sua costruzione nulla è stato lasciato al caso. A cominciare dallo studio della data e ora in cui fu posata la prima pietra: 9 Luglio 1357 alle 5 e 31. Ed ecco il palindromo magico 135797531.

Il re Rodolfo ci racconta che il celebre Ponte seppe resistere alle numerose inondazioni della Moldava, e questo anche grazie ad un costruttore che barattò la stabilità del ponte con la vita di un innocente. Il diavolo però, con un inganno, scelse come anima pia sua moglie e il bambino che portava in grembo. Pare che l’anima del piccolo abbia volteggiato a lungo sopra il ponte, emettendo forti starnuti verso i passanti.

Una leggenda, inoltre, narra che di notte, approfittando del dolce sonno dei praghesi, le statue che adornano il ponte si muovano per prendersi cura dei bambini dell’isola di Kampa. Alcuni sostengono infatti che le statue appaiano diverse da come si vedono di giorno, ma siamo in una città  magica e può accadere (sur)realmente di tutto.

A questo punto Rodolfo ci dice di guardare bene nelle acque della Moldava sotto il Ponte Carlo, perché con un po’ di fantasia potremmo vedere i VodnÃk, i folletti che vi abitano; si narra che siano creature dal corpo verde, solitamente buone ma se si arrabbiano diventano molto permalose! Tra i loro compiti c’è anche quello di salvare e conservare le anime di coloro che annegano nel fiume, come il povero San Giovanni Nepomuceno.

Il ponte, con le sue pesanti pietre e leggende, divide i quartieri Mala Strana, Nove Mesto e Stare Mesto, rispettivamente, città minore, vecchia e nuova. E allora, attraversiamolo e ammiriamo le statue che tracciano un ideale percorso di illuminazione che termina e culmina con la statua della Santa Croce, simbolo cosmico di convergenza di  tutte le energie dell’universo…

Quasi alla fine del Ponte, dal lato di Malá Strana, alcune scale in pietra ci conducono all’isola di Kampa e ai suoi misteri. L’isola di Kampa è separata dal resto di Malá Strana da un canale artificiale, Čertovka (canale del Diavolo), costruito dai Cavalieri di Malta. Proprio su questa isola sorse la prima loggia Massonica di Praga, ed ancora oggi i simboli ne decorano segretamente (ma neanche troppo) le strade.


Staré Město, invece, si trova sulla sponda destra della Moldava, e Rodolfo ci spiega che in questo quartiere si trovano la maggior parte dei monumenti e delle chiese da visitare. Tra questi, non può assolutamente mancare la visita alla Piazza della Città Vecchia (Staroměstské náměstí), con il municipio, l’orologio astronomico, la cattedrale Týnský Chrám, moltissimi locali notturni e ristoranti tipici.

Altro gioiello della Praga esoterica è l’orologio astronomico in Staromestske namesti.
Una leggenda vuole che il costruttore perse la vista per ordine di Venceslao IV, al fine di preservare l’unicità di questa opera.

Il complesso orologio è governato dal numero 4, come i punti cardinali e gli elementi: Terra, Fuoco, Acqua e Aria. Sono evidenti anche i segni zodiacali e le statue della Morte, del Turco, dell’Avaro e del Vanitoso. Ad ogni rintocco suonato dalla Morte, ad ogni ora, le statue dei dodici apostoli si muovono benedicendo gli astanti, il Turco scuote la testa, l’Avaro muove il suo bastone e il sacchetto di monete d’oro, mentre il Vanitoso si contempla allo specchio.

Sempre dalla Città Vecchia, il re Rodolfo ci conduce al vecchio quartiere ebraico, Josefov. Nelle sue stradine strette, nei suoi sottopassaggi e casupole, si narra di presenze fantasmatiche e leggende, che fornirono molto materiale agli scrittori. Tra queste, la presenza del Golem è la leggenda più conosciuta. Il mito del Golem è legato alla tradizione ebraica e proviene dalla numerosa e forte comunità giudaica che visse nel ghetto ebraico. Il racconto vede protagonista un rabbino, Rabbi Jehuda Löw, che animò un ammasso di fango e argilla rossa della Moldava per difendere gli ebrei dalle persecuzioni.

Ed infine arriviamo a Nove Mesto, qui Rodolfo II, ci guarda annoiato, ci lascia il braccio e aspetta che da soli osserviamo le meraviglie della parte meno esoterica della sua città.

In questa piccola pausa, Rodolfo ci lascia qualche ora per mangiare e visitare la Città Nuova.
Per mangiare abbiamo due possibilità, affidarci ai venditori ambulanti, o rifocillarci con la classica cucina ceca. Da un lato abbiamo invitanti pezzi di prosciutto praghese che cuociono lentamente sulla brace, e dall’altro gulash di carne o verdure servito in pezzi di pane. A voi la scelta, solo un consiglio, non perdetevi due delizie tipiche: vino caldo con miele, cannella e anice, e i Trodlo, una sorta di pane dolce con zucchero e cannella che viene cotto alla brace. Da leccarsi le dita!

Sebbene la Città Nuova fosse stata originalmente costruita in stile gotico, molta della sua attuale architettura risale alla fine del XIX secolo. Nuovi edifici vennero edificati dagli architetti del tempo ed il risultato è una variegata mescolanza di stili architettonici.

Il cuore della Città Nuova è piazza Venceslao (Václavskè náměstí) che si estende fino al Museo nazionale e alla statua di San Venceslao.

Inoltre, una delle cose da vedere assolutamente è la Casa Danzante, o Fred e Ginger, un edifico dedicato alla grande coppia del ballo. Uno dei palazzi si protende verso l’altro, che immobile aspetta l’abbraccio.

Al nostro ritorno, Rodolfo ci aspetta seduto sulla riva della Moldava. Come ricordo della città ci lascia in dono delle marionette realizzate a mano. I praghesi hanno una lunga tradizione a riguardo, e il loro lavoro somiglia più ad una scultura che ad un gioco per bambini. Le marionette del nostro (ormai amico) Rodolfo rappresentano Re, cavalieri senza testa, artigiani accecati e folletti verdi.

Capiamo, lo ringraziamo e andiamo via…

E basta girare l’angolo ed è girata anche la pagina della storia…

Al prossimo viaggio!

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