Giorno 1 – Sbarcando a Palermo

Città bizantina, capitale araba, provincia normanna, vicereame spagnolo, Palermo è stata uno dei centri più ricchi della storia del mediterraneo. I resti dei grandi palazzi dei re sono sparpagliati per tutta la città, alternati con lo scempio edilizio che ha caratterizzato l’intero sud Italia negli anni ’70.

La prima tappa di Sicilia On the Road, tour siciliano di Itinerandi non poteva che essere la città più grande e storicamente più rilevante della regione; Palermo e i suoi vicoli, i suoi palazzi, Palermo con i suoi mercati, con le sue contraddizioni, con le ferite ancora aperte, con i suoi cittadini che lottano per renderla migliore.

Noi a Palermo ci siamo arrivati via mare, con l’auto carica di bagagli, sono diverse le compagnie che partono da Napoli: Snav (www.snav.it/), Tirrenia (www.tirrenia.it/), Grimaldi Lines da Salerno (www.grimaldi-lines.com/) e per chi vuole spostarsi in tranquillità in giro per la regione è impensabile farlo con i mezzi pubblici, a causa anche delle grandi distanze.

Se arriverete come noi quasi al tramonto, dopo esservi sistemati, dedicate la serate a scoprire il centro storico mettendo in conto anche di perdervi per le viuzze; il punto di partenza per ogni escursione è Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, antistante il Teatro Massimo (www.teatromassimo.it), l’edificio costruito per celebrare l’unità d’Italia è il terzo al mondo per grandezza tra i teatri ottocenteschi, superato solo da quelli di Parigi e Vienna.

Simbolo delle contraddizioni siciliane il Teatro Massimo rappresenta l’eccellenza culturale di questa regione, ma anche della speculazione di burocrati e mafiosi: ci sono voluti ben 24 anni per un restauro, intorno al quale ancora ruotano molti interrogativi. Un aperitivo sulle scale del teatro, con birra, sfincione e arancine vi farà sentire perfettamente a vostro agio e calati nell’atmosfera dell’estate palermitana.

Addentrandovi nei vicoli di fronte al teatro vi troverete in una zona ricca di localini, bar e ristoranti. La zona si sviluppa intorno alla chiesa di Sant’Ignazio all’Olivella e ad ogni angolo troverete braci dove si cucinano carni e verdure di vario genere. Il profumo che inonda queste strade è irresistibile e vi verrà voglia di fermarvi ad assaggiare , scegliete uno dei ristoranti nei pressi della chiesa e decidete velocemente se riempire il vostro panino con salsiccia, pollo o con il vivamente consigliato spiedino panato .

La cena sarà veloce ed economica, ma avrete voglia di tornare di sicuro ad assaggiare altre prelibatezze. Proseguendo per i vicoli, lasciatevi guidare dai giovani palermitani che passano in questa zona le serate estive, seguite la strada per Via Roma o per via Monteleone, vi incuriosiranno le scale che portano al di sotto del livello della strada, percorrendole si raggiunge una delle zone più sorprendenti della città: il Mercato della Vucciria.

Il suo aspetto malandato ha rappresentato per lungo tempo il divario tra la Palermo signorile e quella popolare; oggi è una delle zone più suggestive, ricca di banchetti anche di sera, dove è possibile mangiare pesce, carne alla brace o frutta e dove tra i tavolini sparpagliati nella piazzetta è possibile bere. Fate una sosta alla Taverna Azzurra (www.facebook.com/taverna.azzurra) dove potrete assaggiare un bicchiere di Sangue siciliano, un liquore a base di vino o di Zibibbo al prezzo di 1 €.

Programmate di tornare nei giorni successivi da queste parti per visitare la Chiesa di San Domenico, una sorta di pantheon della città dato che ospita i sepolcri dei siciliani illustri, ma anche i Tesori della Loggia: 5 chiese e cappelle situate in una vecchia zona dove un tempo risiedevano banchieri e mercanti genovesi.

Pensate di passare qui l’intera serata, spostandovi di locale in locale, guardandovi intorno, ascoltando le voci e osservando come cambiano i colori, finché l’intero quartiere non va a dormire, ma così rischierete di restare svegli fino all’alba.

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