Malaga, voglia di Mediterraneo

Vivendo nel Nord Europa e visitando la madrepatria quattro volte l’anno, vengo a volte colta da bisogni lancinanti di Mediterraneo. Dunque a gennaio, preda di una di queste crisi e disperata di fronte alla prospettiva del lungo inverno inglese, ho studiato la mappa delle coste del Mediterraneo e ho puntato il dito su Malaga, città sulla Costa del Sol spagnola, il cui viso è rivolto al mare e le spalle sono protettivamente cinte da colline.

Quando parlo di Mediterraneo mi riferisco a un concetto, uno stile di vita, un’atmosfera che permea il Sud Europa e che mi ha visto tornare in Inghilterra ricaricata e sorridente, come se mi fossi portata dietro un pezzettino di questo concetto, un’essenza imbottigliata in un ampolla preziosa. Consiglio Malaga a chiunque sia in cerca di Mediterraneo, come me, o a chi sogna una mini fuga in una città, ma con anche i benefici e lo spirito vacanziero del mare, due aspetti che si amalgamano perfettamente in questa città. Come ho già detto, io appartenevo alla prima categoria e voglio dunque raccontarvi in cosa ho ritrovato il Mediterraneo.

I Colori

Le città Mediterranee sembrano tinteggiate di sfumature più dolci e calde rispetto alle loro cugine nordiche. Gli edifici sono intonacati di rosino, giallino, azzurrino e altri toni pastello terminanti in -ino, che si stagliano contro l’azzurro intenso del cielo e si illuminano grazie al bianco delle piastrelle con cui sono pavimentate certe piazzette del centro. Fate attenzione, le suddette sono tanto pittoresche quanto infide se bagnate!

Il centro storico di Malaga è quindi così: colorato, accogliente, luminoso e, soprattutto, quasi tutto pedonale; potete quindi visitarlo a piedi, grazie anche alle sue dimensioni ridotte. Plaza de la Constitucion, è il cuore del centro storico e da sempre punto nevralgico della vita della città. Circondata da edifici di interesse storico e popolata di turisti e locali che si godono una tapas o un caffè al sole, magari assistendo a qualche spettacolo improvvisato da artisti di strada, è una tappa obbligata e piacevole in qualsiasi momento.

Percorrendo qualche calle potete trovale la Cattedrale dell’Incarnazione di Malaga, una dei monumenti rinascimentali più importanti dell’Andalusia nonostante un piccolo difettuccio di poco conto: un campanile lasciato a metà! Questa particolarità le è valsa il soprannome di La Manquita, ovvero “La Monchetta”.

Quando diciamo Mediterraneo diciamo anche influenza araba, che Malaga conserva nell’Alcazaba, la fortezza di epoca musulmana, secolo XI circa. Si possono visitare parte delle mura esterne e dei cortili interni. Alberi di aranci punteggiano questo sito e il loro profumo, combinato allo scorrere dell’acqua nei canaletti a cielo aperto, tipici di questi palazzi, contribuisce a creare un’atmosfera di pace, quasi celestiale. Il rosso mattone e il verde delle fronde richiamano i toni dell’entroterra, più brullo e bruciato dal sole, mentre la luce del sole esalta il bianco delle colonne, risalenti al periodo romano.


Dall’Alcazaba potete raggiungere a piedi il
Gibralfaro, un altro castello in rovina situato in cima alla collina. La passeggiata richiede un po’ di fiato e lavoro di gambe, ma la vista ne vale davvero la pena. Visitandolo nel pomeriggio di una giornata soleggiata potrete ammirare tutta la città nella sua gloria colorata, mentre i raggi del sole invadono le viuzze, simili a colate di miele, e spargono coriandoli dorati sul mare di fronte a voi. Se l’idea della scarpinata proprio non vi attira, potete sempre raggiungere la “vetta” con un autobus.

E ovviamente quando parlo di colori del Mediterraneo non posso dimenticare il blu del mare. La spiaggia di Malagueta si estende dal porto verso oriente, è ampia, sabbiosa e popolata di turisti e locali che, quando possibile, si godono il calore del sole o ammirando le evoluzioni dei kite-surfisti. Potete arrivare alla Malagueta a piedi dal centro, passando per il parco, piccola oasi rettangolare di verde quiete incastonato tra il mare e il traffico dei paseos e avenidas.

Il Cibo

C’è una legge non scritta secondo la quale per avere un’esperienza vera del Mediterraneo bisogna ingozzarsi fino a scoppiare di prodotti locali e io la mia compagna d viaggio non ci siamo certo tirate indietro. Per quanto riguarda Malaga, le tapas di pesce fritto sono una scelta sicura: da Pepa y Pepe, in centro, potete gustare porzioni di calamari o gamberetti fritti, da sgranocchiare assieme a un buon bicchiere di vino, il tutto di ottima qualità e per cifre modiche.

Un altro piatto che non può mancare in una vacanza spagnola è la paella! Io vi posso consigliare quella della Taberna El Mentidero, sempre in centro: sugosa e ricca abbastanza da saziarvi, ma non troppo abbondate in modo da lasciarvi un po’ di spazio per un altro piattino. Noi abbiamo optato per dei freschissimi gamberi alla griglia, buoni da sognarseli di notte.
Questo locale ospita anche esibizioni di cantanti locali, per aggiungere colore all’esperienza, anche se devo ammettere che i toni acuti della musica tipica spagnola rendevano la conversazione un po’ difficoltosa.

visitare-malaga-andalusia (1)Per un pranzo in riva al mare e, tenendo le dita incrociate, baciato dal sole, il ristorante del Baños del Carmen serve dell’ottimo pesce alla brace. Se possibile, vi consiglio di prenotare o potreste trovarvi costretti a mangiare nella saletta interna, più fresca ma priva di panorama. La terrazza del ristorante si affaccia infatti sulla baia, cosicché gli avventori possano soddisfare non solo il gusto ma anche la vista. I Baños del Carmen si trovano a est della Malagueta e potete facilmetne arrivarci in autobus.

Un’altra tappa gastronomica consigliata è il Mercato Atarazanas, situato nell’omonima via del centro storico: prodotti locali freschissimi, tra cui frutta, verdura, carne e pesce. Potete semplicemente ammirare la disposizione e i colori o soddisfare l’appetito con pesce crudo o alla griglia cucinato sul momento.

Il Carattere

Premetto che le persone scorbutiche, egoiste o sgarbate esistono in qualsiasi nazione, non voglio darvi a bere che noi nel Mediterraneo siamo tutti simpatici, d’altronde, sarà stato l’atteggiamento da vacanza, sarà stato il sole che mette tutti di buon umore, ma ogni singolo spagnolo che abbiamo incontrato sul nostro cammino si è dimostrato disponibile e amichevole, fin giocoso.

E il carattere spagnolo non mancava di certo a Pablo Ruiz Picasso, originario proprio di Malaga, che gli dedica tre musei.

Il primo è il Museo Picasso Malaga: lo potete trovare al Palacio de Buenavista in Calle San Agustin, nel centro storico. Qui le opere di Picasso sono divise per temi, tra questi anche il legame con Malaga e con le tradizioni spagnole. La collezione vanta più di duecento opere, a sottolineare la grande versatilità dell’artista e il suo ruolo di spicco nella storia dell’arte. La collezione è un sentito tributo della città a uno dei suoi cittadini più illustri, ma anche la realizzazione del desiderio di Picasso di lasciare al luogo natale parte del frutto del suo lavoro e successo.

Picasso visse a Malaga fino ai vent’anni, in Plaza de la Merced, ai confini del centro storico. L’appartamento dove il giovane Picasso nacque, crebbe e iniziò a sperimentare con la pittura è ora una casa museo e vanta cimeli di famiglia come fotografie, abitini di battesimo e quadri a olio del padre di Picasso, anch’esso pittore. Le fasi più importanti della vita del pittore malagueno sono distribuite in poche stanze, di cui una è dedicata all’amore profondo di Picasso per le tradizioni spagnole, prima fra tutte la corrida.

Con lo stesso biglietto della casa museo potete accedere anche alla seconda parte della Fundación Picasso, dove alle opere di Picasso sono affiancate opere di altri artisti contemporanei, a dimostrazione del ruolo di primo piano ricoperto da Picasso. È una collezione piccola ma ben organizzata, vale di sicuro la visita ed è anch’essa in Plaza de la Merced.

E se non avete avuto abbastanza di arte spagnola, potete visitare il Museo Carmen Thyssen, che contiene una delle migliori collezioni di pittori andalusi.

Io potrei andare avanti all’infinito con le mie lodi su Malaga, sulla temperatura ideale, le persone sorridenti, l’azzurro del cielo, il tepore del sole e via discorrendo ma finirei per annoiarvi per cui concludo consigliandovi caldamente, coloratamente e gustosamente, di visitare Malaga, con l’augurio che vi troviate quello di cui avete bisogno in quel momento.

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