Granada, la regina andalusa

Resti ipnotizzato a fissarlo, si estende sull’intera cima della collina e si alternano alle possenti mura e ai bastioni i colori di giardini e roseti, che compaiono e scompaiono da un lato all’altro. Se Granada è la regina dell’Andalusia l’Alhambra non può che essere la sua corona.

Il racconto della città non poteva che cominciare da qui: Mirador di San Nicolas, ore 19:30.

Il rosso è il colore che domina l’intera collina, di fronte a noi, imponente, sorge il castello dell’Alhambra, antica residenza dei mori e scrigno di tesori, leggende e avventure. Alle nostre spalle, forse non a caso, ci sono la chiesa di San Nicolas e la Moschea, simboli perfettamente chiari di ciò che è stata la storia di Granada. Alle sue spalle, imponente e che spezza l’orizzonte c’è la Sierra Nevada, l’enorme catena montuosa, perennemente innevata, che senza sosta circonda la città, fonte di acqua e refrigerio nelle notti estive afose.

Innanzitutto la collina dell’Albaìcin, è da qui che si gode questo splendido panorama. Arrampicato sul fianco della collina, con le casette bianche che puntellano le strade, le stradine ciottolate, cortili, giardini, fontane, piazzette, questa zona è una delle più antiche. Quando la città fu conquistata dai re cattolici, l’intera popolazione musulmana si spostò in queste case, creando una comunità unita pronta a difendere la propria cultura.

Scendendo dal Mirador non rifarete la stessa strada, tranne se non l’avete segnata, perchè gli incroci e le strettoie portano sempre in direzioni diverse. Basterà proseguire in discesa e vi ritroverete a passeggiare lungo il Rio Darro, sulla Carrera del Darro, l’antica strada granadina. Un consiglio, superate uno dei ponti e fermatevi a cenare a La Taberna de Tiacheta.

Alle spalle dell’Albaìcin, altra collina che compone Granada, come chicchi di un melograno, simbolo della città, sorge Sacromonte, altra zona di panorami e leggende, quartiere gitano, dove religione e tradizione si incontrano. Di sera il suono del flamenco riempie il dedalo di vicoli, e le luci delle case proiettano strane ombre, mentre le ragazze si preparano per uscire sulla soglia di casa. qui l’elemento è la pietra, nuda, le abitazioni sono scavate nella pietra viva e infatti qui sono chiamate cuevas, grotte; i gitani le hanno occupate e rese vivibili.

Sacromonte è un posto da visitare passeggiando in mezzo alle case bianche, completamente diverso dal vicino Albaìcin, con le pareti coperte di maioliche con immagini sacre, di fronte ancora una volta l’Alhambra mostra il suo volto nascosto e si illumina di notte sulla sua collina.

La storia di Granada è inevitabilmente legata alla Regina Isabella di Castiglia, sovrana alla quale la Spagna deve molto e che per l’Andalusia rappresenta un simbolo di riscatto, nonostante nel periodo della dominazione araba queste zone fossero tra le più ricche ed eleganti della Penisola Iberica.

Il legame indissolubile tra la città e la sovrana si vede ad ogni angolo, partendo da Plaza Nueva, simbolo della Granada moderna e proseguendo verso Calle de los Reyes Catolicos si arriva appunto in Plaza Isabel la Catolica, qui un’enorme piedistallo sorregge le figure della regina e di Cristoforo Colombo, che proprio qui presentò il proprio viaggio ai sovrani; proseguendo verso la Gran Via de Colon si raggiunge il cuore della Granada storica: la Cattedrale e la Capilla Real.


La prima fu costruita successivamente alla riconquista della città nel 1492, quando i Re cattolici vollero la costruzione di una cattedrale, sul sito della grande moschea nasride di Granada. Essendo un misto di stili, l’esterno gotico e gli interni rinascimentale e barocco, la Cattedrale non attira subito, anzi non attira e basta; le colonne, enormi per diametro e per altezza, sono l’unica cosa che rende il luogo suggestivo insieme agli stucchi che decorano le volte; per il resto, poco decorazioni dorate di un barocco casto decorano le superfici. Interessante è il piccolo giardino posteriore che un tempo era l’aranceto posto all’ingresso della Moschea.

Subito vicino alla Cattedrale, la Capilla Real invece merita di sicuro una visita. Completamente in stile gotico, nonostante le sue piccole dimensioni è un concentrato di arte e storia: gli enormi stemmi della casa regnante sono raffigurati in diversi punti, in ferro battuto o dipinti; nella sala principale, quattro enormi sarcofagi in marmo riproducono i corpi di Isabella e Ferdinando di Castiglia sul letto di morte e della figlia Giovanna la Pazza con il marito Filippo il bello, eredi al trono. Ognuno di loro con lo scettro e la spada simboli del potere di regine e re. Scendendo la piccola scalinata si raggiunge la cripta, dove si trovano le bare in piombo dei quattro sovrani, protette da uno stupefacente divisorio in ferro battuto rivestito d’oro.

L’antica sacrestia oggi conserva un museo, qui sono custoditi i cimeli dei re. Oggetti che solitamente non sono mostrati al grande pubblico, come la corona d’argento di Isabella e il suo scettro, e la spada di Ferdinando, oltre che diversi oggetti usati dai due sovrani cattolici. La visita termina con alcune opere d’arte, tra cui, degna di nota, L’Orazione nell’orto di Botticelli.

Poco lontano infilatevi sotto l’arco dell’Alcaicerìa, un tempo suq della seta oggi è un susseguirsi di negozi di souvenirs. Situato nel cuore di quella che era la medina islamica, la sua origine risale già al periodo dell’Imperatore Giustiniano, che concesse agli arabi questa zona per poter vendere la seta e loro chiamarono il mercato  al-Kaysar-ia, luogo di Cesare. Nel bazar, oltre ai negozi, si trovavano anche le locande che ospitavano i commercianti durante il loro soggiorno. Anticamente veniva protetto come una cittadella, circondato, sui quattro lati, da case con pareti chiuse verso l’esterno e dotato di nove porte che davano accesso al suq e che venivano chiuse durante la notte, impedendo il passaggio.

Dopo il mercato c’è da girovagare tra le antiche strade del centro, incontrando continuamente antiche piazze o vecchi mercati, mangiando nelle panetterie che richiamano sapori e atmosfere nord africane e medio orientali.

Il pomeriggio però dedicatelo al gioiello di Granada: l’Alhambra.

Innanzitutto fate i biglietti già prima di partire, altrimenti rischiate di trovare tutto esaurito, poi arrivati in città recatevi alla libreria dell’Alhambra su Calle de los Reyes Catolicos per ritirarli. File, attese e la salita che porta alla rocca valgono assolutamente la visita.

C’è poco da scrivere dell’Alhambra, perchè bisogna osservarla per capire il valore di questo gioiello dell’architettura mora. Si passa continuamente dall’imponenza dei torrioni e delle mura che l’hanno resa una fortezza inespugnabile, agli stucchi arabegianti e ai colori delle decorazioni, fino ai giardini colorati di migliaia di specie diverse di fiori e ricche di fontane che la rendono un’oasi. Questo fu il palazzo degli ultimi re mori, che resistettero alla reconquista spagnola, fino a cadere nel 1492

La Puerta de la Justicia accoglie i visitatori e già qui numerose leggende si raccontano intorno ai simboli della mano e della chiave raffigurate sui portali, la Torre de la Vela mostra la città in tutta la sua bellezza, l’alternarsi di tetti marroni e case bianche ricche di verdi giardini.

All’interno delle mura i piccoli bagni arabi fanno rivivere le suggestioni di tempi passati, mentre le strutture, come il Palazzo di Carlo V e il convento di San Francesco, costruite dopo la conquista cattolica si alternano creando contrasti affascinanti.

Ciò che entusiasma gli occhi però sono i Palacios Nazaries, tra le mura, i giardini e le vasche di questi palazzi si esprime al massimo la bellezza di questo luogo. Se dovessimo pensare a dove sono state narrate e pensate le favole de Le mille e una notte ci verrebbero subito in mente i saloni del Patio de los Comares o i marmi luminosi del Patio de los Leones.

La luce penetra dalle finestre colorate e crea giochi di luci e ombre sulle pareti ricche di stucchi e sulle volte decorate finemente. All’esterno enormi vasche d’acqua e fontane rendono fresca l’aria afosa e piccoli canali portano l’acqua in ogni angolo, i marmi sono così bianchi e lucenti sotto il sole caldo dell’Andalusia che gli occhi faticano a restare aperti, forse anche questo era un modo per impressionare i Re stranieri quando venivano in visita al palazzo.

Numerose storie caratterizzano questi luoghi, la torre de Dos Hermanas racconta delle figlie dell’emiro rinchiuse qui per proteggerle dall’amore di due cavalieri cristiani, e ancora la Sala de Abencerrajes, con al centro una fontana, qui si narra che il sultano fece uccidere tutti i membri della sua famiglia, colpevoli di cospirare contro di lui, e che il sangue scorrendo abbia macchiato la fontana, macchie che ancora oggi sono ben visibili sul marmo.

Dal Mirador de Lindaraja, tutto decorato con maioliche, i sovrani si soffermavano ad ammirare il giardino sottostante, da qui si scende nel patio e poi nei giardini terrazzati, che conducono al piccolo Palacio del Portico, il più antico dell’intero complesso.

Infine il Generalife, un sentiero conduce ad un ponte e poi alla collina più alta dell’Alhambra, dove sorge la residenza estiva dei reggenti. L’area è formata da un insieme di vialetti, cortili, laghetti, siepi, alberi secolari e fiori di ogni colore. Le fontane ancora in funzione creano magnifici giochi d’acqua, e le siepi sembrano formare un labirinto in cui perdersi; in uno dei cortili incontrerete il tronco di un cipresso di 700 anni che un tempo regalava ombra e frescura, ma che fu abbattuto quando, come ricorda la targa, fu scoperto che sotto di esso si incontravano la regina e il suo amante.

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