Edimburgo, la città delle storie

postato in: All posts, Europa | 352

Edimburgo, la piccola capitale della Scozia, si presta ad un viaggetto veloce, un weekend lungo o anche uno corto, grazie alla sua concentratezza (termine tecnico per indicare piccoli spazi ad alta densità di bellezza).

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Se il vostro cuore vi ha portato a scegliere la Vecchia Fumosa (Old Smoky) come prossima meta, date retta a qualcuno di un po’ meno coraggioso ma più pratico e armatevi di: una giacca impermeabile, perché a Edimburgo piove; scarpe con una suola antiscivolo, perché le stradine lastricate sono tanto pittoresche quanto scivolose, specialmente se bagnate; un bel paio di gambe allenate o, in alternativa, una bella forza di volontà, perché questa città è costruita su colline e mette alla prova turisti e locali con salite, discese e infinite gradinate. Considerate questo dettaglio un plus: dopo tre giorni a Edimburgo potrete saltare la palestra per sei mesi!

Considerando che le prime tracce di civiltà in quest’area risalgono al IX secolo a.C., questo insediamento di 460.000 abitanti vanta un bel po’ di storia e di storie. Storie di persone, di letteratura, storie lugubri e storie buffe. Io ve la voglio far vedere così, come la città dove ogni angolo non è solo un bello sfondo per una fotografia, ma anche una storia.

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Incominciamo dal Grassmarket, piazza oblunga e centrale, sede di un mercato del bestiame dal XV al XX secolo, e di esecuzioni nel XVIII. Al giorno d’oggi non vedrete nulla di tutto ciò, solo molti pub,
visitare-edimburgo (8)negozietti e un mercato di prodotti locali al sabato. Tra i pub spiccano il Last Drop Tavern, dove i condannati venivano portati a bere il loro ultimo bicchiere, e il Maggie Dickson’s, intitolato all’unica donna che scampò alla pena di morte. Maggie, dopo essere stata abbandonata dal marito, aveva intrecciato una relazione con un altro uomo. Essendo ancora sotto il vincolo del matrimonio, la faccenda doveva essere tenuta segreta e pare che i due amanti ci stessero riuscendo benissimo, senonché un bel giorno, o più probabilmente notte, Maggie rimase incinta. Una pancia che cresce è ben più difficile da occultare, ma Maggie riuscì anche in questa impresa. Sfortunatamente, il bambino nacque morto; il piano iniziale della puerpera era di abbandonare il corpicino nel fiume, ma al momento cruciale l’istinto materno prese il sopravvento e Maggie volle dare al suo piccino almeno una degna sepoltura sulla riva. Purtroppo esso venne ritrovato dopo pochi giorni e ricondotto alla madre. Non chiedetevi come, io vi posso solo dire che non c’entrano i RIS! Maggie venne dunque processata e condannata a morte per il crimine di “gravidanza occultata”. Personalmente le avrei dato un premio per l’ingegno, la legge invece al tempo optava per un cappio al collo. Avvenne l’impiccagione, Maggie fu dichiarata morta e il suo corpo fu sistemato in una cassa di legno e caricato su un carretto verso il suo paese natale. Lungo la strada però, l’uomo alla guida del carro, tra una buca e un colpo di frusta, udì rumori provenire dalla cassa: era Maggie, viva e vegeta, che picchiava per uscire dalla cassa da (non)morta. L’omino del carro dovette fare dietrofront e riportare la condannata al Grassmarket, affinché venisse impiccata di nuovo. La città accorse di nuovo nella piazza, eccitata all’idea di assistere a ben due esecuzioni in un giorno. Era il loro unico divertimento, altro che televisione e serie tv in streaming! Tutto era pronto per la seconda impiccagione quando, dalla folla, intervenne un giovane studente di legge a far notare che Maggie aveva già scontato la sua pena, essendo stata dichiarata legalmente morta, e la legge non prevedeva di condannare a morte una persona due volte. Oltre a ciò, i voti nuziali recitavano “finché morte non ci separi”, quindi non solo Maggie scampò viva alla sua pena, ma poté ricongiungersi con l’amato, non essendo più legalmente sposata al marito fellone.

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Bevetevi una pinta in onore di Maggie, o un tè, se l’ora non è tarda abbastanza, e proseguite verso Greyfriars Kirk, chiesa con cimitero adiacente che si è meritato il nomignolo di “lasagna di Edimburgo”, per la stratificazione di corpi sepolti. Ve l’avevo detto che c’erano anche dettagli lugubri, ma alleggerirò l’atmosfera con la storia di Bobby Greyfriars, sepolto all’ingresso del cimitero e appartenente alla nobile famiglia dei…cani! Ebbene sì, Bobby fu nient’altro che il cagnolino del guardiano del cimitero. Il terrier più famoso di Scozia affiancò il suo padrone per due anni e, quando egli morì, continuò a fare la guardia alla tomba fino alla sua stessa morte.

La città decise di ricompensare la bestiolina per i suoi servigi e la sua fedeltà e la fece seppellire nel cimitero a cui faceva da guardia. Sul parapetto di George IV Bridge vi è anche una piccola statua di Bobby, il cui naso è consumato dalle carezze di turisti cinofili.

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visitare-edimburgo (10)Sullo stesso ponte potete trovare due luoghi di alto valore culturale: il Museum of Scotland and Royal Museum da un lato, la caffetteria The Elephant House. Nel primo potrete ripercorrere la storia della nazione, fin dai primi passi. Nella seconda avrete la possibilità di sedere dove una quindicina d’anni fa sedette JK Rowling mentre scriveva i primi due capitoli della saga di Harry Potter. Gioite, fan del maghetto con gli occhiali; disprezzatori, accettate almeno il fatto che Harry e co. siano ormai parte fondamentale della cultura popolare. The Elephant House offre un ambiente accogliente e un’ottima selezione di torte e dolcetti da gustare seduti nella sala sul retro, con vista sul castello e Greyfriars Kirk.
visitare-edimburgo (4)Immaginatevi la povera Joanne Kathleen, al tempo povera nel senso letterale del termine, seduta a un tavolo a scrivere freneticamente di maghi e bacchette magiche. Si dice che fosse talmente povera che potesse permettersi di ordinare solo una tazza di caffè e che stesse seduta al suo tavolo per intere giornate, senza consumare altro. Di sicuro il proprietario del caffè non si sta pentendo della propria indulgenza, visto che grazie a lei avrà sempre clienti!

Se non avete tempo o voglia di mangiare, fermatevi almeno a prendere un Elephant shortbread da portare via: il tipico biscotto scozzese al burro, in questo caso a forma di elefante.

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Torniamo brevemente al Museum of Scotland, situato dal lato opposto del ponte rispetto a Elephant House. Molte cose potrete ammirare qui: quadri, statue a antichi manufatti, che arricchiranno il vostro bagaglio culturale. Io voglio attirare la vostra attenzione sulle 17 bare in miniature della collina Arthur’s Seat, perché ci portano alla nostra prossima storia. Questi piccoli manufatti furono trovati in una caverna ai piedi della collina nel 1836 da un gruppo di ragazzini. Ogni bara contiene una bambolina di legno intagliato, ciascuna con vestiti personalizzati e stivaletti neri dipinti. Le origini di queste 17 figurine sono tutt’ora un mistero: una scuola di pensiero le vuole simulacri di persone reali, usate dalle streghe per lanciare maledizioni; secondo un’altra teoria, queste statuette erano usate dai marinai per proteggersi dalla morte per naufragio. Infine, queste bamboline potrebbero rappresentare una sepoltura sostitutiva per le vittime della coppia di assassini William Burke e William Hare. I due criminali operarono nel XIX secolo, quando gli studi di anatomia fiorivano. Se non l’avete già capito da soli, Burke e Hare si occupavano di fornire all’ospedale di Edimburgo la materia prima per lezioni di anatomia. Le vie legali, naturalmente, prevedevano che i corpi di defunti fossero donati all’ospedale in nome della scienza, ma evidentemente l’idea andava a genio a poche persone. I criminali comuni si limitavano a trafugare salme dai cimiteri, ma furono Burke e Hare ad avere la geniale idea di sacrificare alla scienza qualche cristiano ancora in vita. Infiniti i vantaggi: corpo fresco fresco, nessun segno di decomposizione, scelta molto più ampia e meno probabilità che i parenti facessero domande, visto che i due avevano l’accortezza di scegliere cosiddetti “rifiuti della società”. Infine i due imprenditori dell’omicidio furono beccati, dopo aver scelto come 17esima vittima Jamie lo Sciocco, solo ma conosciuto da tutta la città. Solo Burke andò incontro alla pena capitale, in quanto Hare ottenne l’immunità testimoniando contro l’ex “socio”. Ironicamente, il suo corpo fu poi dissezionato pubblicamente e la pelle usata per assemblare piccoli oggetti come portafogli o portadocumenti.

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Ma Edimburgo non è solo città di misteri e omicidi, è anche città letteratura, celebrata nel Writer’s Museum. Questo tempio della parola scritta si focalizza soprattutto su autori scozzesi quali Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott e R. L. Stevenson e si trova in uno degli edifici più antichi della città vecchia, Lady Stair’s House e si affaccia sull’omonimo cortiletto, uno dei tanti che punteggiano la città vecchia. Sono tutti aperti al pubblico, quindi prendetevi pure la libertà di curiosare e fotografare.

E se siete in cerca di foto mozzafiato, scalate Calton Hill, all’estremità orientale di Princes Street. È uno dei punti panoramici migliori della città, con vista a 360 gradi su Edinburgh Castle, città vecchia, porto e Arthur Seat. Ammirate l’Osservatorio, omaggiate l’ammiraglio Nelson e il suo monumento e deridete il National Monument, il quale porta alla storia più breve della città: iniziato nel 1820 circa, fu pensato come imitazione del Pantheon. Sfortunatamente i costruttori non andarono oltre il colonnato perché, a monumento iniziato, finirono i fondi e nessuno si degnò di rimpolpare le casse. The end.

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Epilogo

C’è naturalmente molto altro da vedere e scoprire a Edimburgo. Vi invito a esplorare anche altre zone, quella del porto ad esempio, o il quartiere di Portobello, a est di Holyrood Park e Arthur’s Seat. Scalate il trono di re Artù, ubriacatevi di whisky e curate l’hangover del giorno dopo con il piatto nazionale, haggis.

Andate a Edimburgo, scoprite le sue mille storie e scriveteci le vostre.

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