18 Nov 2014

Dubai_il suk dell’oro

di | postato in: All posts, Medio oriente, Mondo | 806

C’era una volta il deserto, il golfo persico e un villaggio di pescatori di perle.
C’era una volta una comunità araba, piccoli agglomerati di famiglie tradizionali e beduini.

C’è oggi Dubai, una città che in appena 40 anni, grazie alla scoperta dell’oro nero, è stata capace di convertirsi da piccolo paese a metropoli futuristica, ai limiti della realtà!

Dubai (in arabo: دبيّ, Dābāyāʼ) è uno dei sette emirati che compongono gli Emirati Arabi Uniti. È la città dei grattacieli e degli eccessi. Del lusso senza limiti e dei Guinness dei primati. A Dubai tutto è annunciato con frasi del tipo “il più alto…”, “Il più grande…”, “Il primo…” O “il maggiore”. Insomma, una città di megalomani!

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Dubai può essere vista come meta di viaggio in senso assoluto, o come piccola parentesi di qualche giorno. Tutto dipende dai propri gusti e soprattutto dalle proprie tasche! Questa città non è più proibitiva come qualche anno fa, ma di certo, non può essere definita abbordabile. L’aspetto positivo è il fatto che sia ancora una meta poco gettonata tra gli italiani. In ogni caso, nel progettare il viaggio conviene evitare i nostri mesi estivi durante i quali a Dubai le temperature toccano i 50°C con tassi di umidità superiori al 90%. E fidatevi di chi non ha seguito questo consiglio. Il caldo ad Agosto è allucinante. Da non meravigliarsi delle allucinazioni dei beduini nel deserto! Quantomeno fatelo per le lenti delle vostre macchine fotografiche che per i continui sbalzi di temperatura tra l’interno e l’esterno, cioè tra i 20 gradi dei centri commerciali e il deserto torrido, vi capiterà di trovare continuamente appannate.

Ma veniamo all’organizzazione del viaggio. Prima di tutto, comprate una guida piccola e pratica che vi consenta appena di orientarvi. Per Dubai non sono necessarie guide dettagliate e ricche di particolari. Questa città non ha storia da approfondire, e si evolve così velocemente che è difficile trovare una guida adeguatamente aggiornata. Basta pensare al fatto che le guide edite nel 2010, ad esempio, non menzionano la linea metropolitana e il Burji Kalifa, l’edificio più alto del mondo. Entrambi, così come molte altre strutture, sono arrivate dopo. Noi ci siamo stati nello scorso agosto, ma non dubito che già ora ci sia qualche nuova fantasmagorica attrazione (fu)turistica. Come ci ha spiegato un tassista del Pakistan “Dubai: only construction, only buildings, everyday… everywhere”.
Ma quali sono i posti assolutamente da vedere? Cominciamo il nostro tour con una mappa concettuale della città.

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DUBAI E I QUARTIERI STORICI

Questa è la Dubai che ci piace. Parliamo di Bur Dubai e Deira, 2 lembi della città divisi dal  Dubai Creek, il canale naturale che un tempo rappresentava l’unica fonte di commercio e di affari dell’emirato.
Al Bastakiya o Bur Dubai, è il quartiere più antico della città. In questa zona è possibile visitare l’Al Fahidi Fort, il più vecchio edificio di Dubai e sede del Dubai Museum che ricostruisce la vita degli
arabi ante-petrolio e dell’era in cui la vita delle famiglie era scandita dalla raccolta delle perle.
A pochi passi si trova la Sheikh Saeed’s House, edificio storico che risale alla fine del 1800 (ammazza e quanta storia!).
Per raggiungere Deira il mezzo migliore sono le Abra, piccole barchette-taxi in legno di sambuco che fanno il trasbordo da Bur Dubai a Deira.

dubai

Imperdibili da questo lato del canale sono il souk del pesce, delle spezie e dell’oro. In queste piccole viuzze, negozietti si affiancano l’uno all’altro esponendo gran parte della merce verso l’esterno. Appena imboccato il vicolo vedrete avvicinarsi decine di venditori che in pieno stile arabo, proveranno a vendervi qualsiasi cosa e a qualsiasi prezzo. Ma oltre agli acquisti, concedetevi qualche attimo per assaporare l’atmosfera. Piccoli vicoli con tessuti preziosi, i sacchi con le spezie colorate, il profumo dello zenzero, lo scintillio dell’oro.

visitare-dubai

A differenza del classico stereotipo, fare acquisti in questa zona non è assolutamente proibitivo. Dovete solo superare il folto numero di venditori che tenteranno in tutti i modi di portarvi all’interno del loro bazar e vi racconteranno di avere mogli e parenti italiane.

Mi raccomando, ricordatevi di trattare sul prezzo, non farlo è addirittura un’offesa!

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DUBAI E LE STRUTTURE RELIGIOSE

dubai (7)Il rapporto tra Dubai e la religione è un argomento tanto vasto e complesso che sarebbe impossibile parlarne in poche righe, e soprattutto non sarebbe questo il luogo adatto. Posso solamente dire di aver studiato il rapporto delle donne con la religione mediante lunghi archi di tempo passati nei bagni pubblici all’ora della preghiera. Non potendo entrare nelle moschee e nelle prayer rooms almeno nei bagni pubblici è possibile assistere di nascosto al rito dell’abluzione.

Per quanto riguarda le strutture religiose, la moschea di Jumeirah è l’unica moschea visitabile dai non musulmani. Ormai diventata per i turisti il simbolo religioso della città, questa struttura in pietra resta attualmente un interessante esempio di architettura islamica.

 

La moschea si può visitare solo in alcuni giorni dalla settimana e ad orari ben precisi, perché lo Sheik Mohammed del Centre for Cultural Understanding nell’ambito del progetto turistico “Open Doors. Open Minds” ha deciso che il turista può visitare il sito religioso solo mediante visita guidata per una maggiore comprensione della religione islamica. Il biglietto costa 10 dirham (2,10 euro) e comprende una consumazione e 75 minuti di conferenza durante i quali vi faranno sedere a terra, e vi obbligheranno ad ascoltare in silenzio la lunga storia e le tradizioni dell’Islam. Insomma, un sequestro di persona! Ricordate che se non avete abiti “decenti” sarete invitati ad indossare il thobe per gli uomini e l’abaya per le donne. Quest’ultime saranno anche tenute a coprire il capo e gran parte del corpo dalla testa ai piedi.

di A. Laura Gambardella

————> Continua a leggere la seconda parte

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