A spasso per Copenaghen, scoprendo la Sirena del Nord

postato in: All posts, Europa, Lucia | 267

Se state pianificando una fuga di primavera e vi trovate con la piantina dell’Europa aperta davanti, non soffermatevi sulle mete abituali, ma spostate lo sguardo verso nord e fate scorrere il dito tra le isole della Danimarca fino a raggiungerne la capitale. Copenaghen, København per i danesi, è la meta ideale per un week end, quindi non esitate a prenotare.


Arrivati all’aeroporto prendete il treno che vi porterà fino alla stazione centrale, il tragitto dura solo 25 minuti, e vi ritroverete nel cuore della città. Copenaghen è letteralmente il regno delle biciclette, parcheggiate ovunque in modi improbabili, e vi verrà subito voglia di averne una e correre verso la libertà con il vento tra i capelli! Attraversate Vesterbrogade e dirigetevi verso l’organizzatissimo ufficio informazioni che si trova proprio di fronte alla stazione centrale, dove potrete scegliere il noleggio biciclette più vicino al vostro albergo.


Ma se l’idea del vento freddo che vi schiaffeggia non vi piace, e magari invece avete voglia di fare qualche foto e prendervela con calma, allora usate il più antico mezzo di locomozione, i cari e vecchi piedi, per esplorare la città. Copenaghen è una città non molto grande, le strade sono ampie ed è quindi molto piacevole passeggiare, e se siete stanchi i mezzi di trasporto offrono un servizio ottimo e (ovviamente) puntuale

Primo giorno

Iniziate con una passeggiata nel centro, partendo da Rådhuspladsen, la piazza del Municipio, e continuando per le strade dell’area pedonale di Strøget. Il percorso sarà ancora più piacevole dopo aver fatto colazione nella pasticceria Lagkagehuset all’inizio di Frederiksberggade, dove assaggiare i tipici dolci danesi alla crema e cannella. Rifocillati e pronti per iniziare la giornata, godetevi la passeggiata nelle strade pulite e ordinate del quartiere, in cui troverete negozi di moda delle marche internazionali, ma anche qualche negozio di autentico design danese.


Arrivati a Kongens Nytorv, la piazza opposta a quella del municipio e sede del Teatro Reale, proseguite seguendo le indicazioni per Nyhavn, e in pochi minuti vi troverete nel suggestivo antico porto di Copenaghen. Le facciate colorate delle case e le imbarcazioni attraccate vi faranno sentire all’interno di una cartolina. Non riuscirete a resistere al richiamo di una birra fresca seduti ai tavolini esterni di uno dei tanti bar!


Se siete appassionati di design non perdete una visita al Designmuseum Danmark (ingresso: 60 kr), posizionato alle spalle di Nyhavn, che ospita un’eclettica collezione di oggetti di design dal medioevo ai giorni nostri. Se invece avete ancora voglia di camminare tornate verso l’area di Strøget e godetevi il panorama della città dall’alto del Rundetårn, il più antico osservatorio astronomico d’Europa ancora in funzione (Købmagergade 52, ingresso: 25 kr).

Una volta tornati con i piedi per terra, o meglio per strada, proseguite su Købmagergade verso la stazione della metropolitana di Nørreport, alle spalle della quale troverete due padiglioni che ospitano un mercato in cui lasciarsi ingolosire dalle pietanze più disparate. Vi consigliamo di provare gli smørrebrød, piatto tipico danese che consiste di una fetta di pane di segale imburrato e condito con carne, pesce, salumi o formaggi. Una valida alternativa è costituita dalle numerose preparazioni a base di pesce fresco. Scegliete il vostro piatto preferito e gustatelo comodamente seduti ai tavolini esterni.

Dopo pranzo si parte per l’immancabile visita al quartiere di Christiania. Prendete la metro da Nørreport fino alla fermata Christianshavn, incamminatevi su Prinsessgade fino a raggiungere l’entrata del quartiere più hippy d’Europa! Nel 1971 un gruppo di squatter occupò questa base militare in disuso, dichiarandola stato libero di Christiania, soggetto a proprie leggi, iniziando così un esperimento sociale che continua ancora oggi, dal momento che la comunità è ancora abitata da un migliaio di persone.
Avventuratevi dunque alla scoperta di questo quartiere, fatto di case variopinte, murales, baracche e sculture all’aperto. La polizia danese non ha accesso all’interno di Christiania, dove è dunque comune lo spaccio di droghe leggere. Nella green zone ci sono alcune regole da rispettare, come il divieto di fare foto e quello di correre per evitare il panico, a cui è consigliabile attenersi per non avere problemi con gli abitanti del posto. Allontanandovi dalla “green zone”, potrete ammirare la bellezza delle abitazioni, incorrere in piccoli spettacoli di musica dal vivo, performance artistiche o semplicemente scambiare due chiacchiere con qualche residente del posto. Godetevi una passeggiata lungo la riva del lago che sorge alle spalle di Christiania, e fermatevi ad osservare le innumerevoli specie di uccelli  e la natura incontaminata.


Dopo la visita di Christiania vi consigliamo di riposarvi un po’ prima di immergervi nella caotica notte danese! Per il dopo-cena scegliete uno dei numerosi locali in Vesterbrogade o in Istedgate, noi possiamo consigliarvi il bar
Mikkeller (Vesterbrogade 20) per lasciarvi tentare dalle numerose
varietà di birra, o il Riesen bar (Oehlenschlægersgade 36), caotico e fumoso, dove sarà più facile fare conoscenza con mezzo locale che ordinare una birra!

Secondo giorno

Dopo la prima lunga giornata il secondo giorno ci si può concedere di svegliarsi senza fretta, e il modo migliore per recuperare le forze è con un buon brunch! Non molto distante dalla stazione centrale, in direzione sud est, c’è il quartiere di Kødbyen, anche detto Meat Packing District, era infatti la zona che ospitava le grandi industrie della carne. Dal 2000 questo quartiere è stato trasformato in una delle zone più alternative e creative della città. Troverete diversi locali che offrono brunch a prezzi più o meno accessibili, e tutti hanno grandi vetrate e arredamenti colorati che invitano i passanti a fermarsi. Noi abbiamo scelto il Mother, un ristorante gestito da italiani che offre diversi piatti dal dolce al salato, e nel prezzo (140 kr) sono inclusi anche i succhi di frutta e l’acqua.


Mangiate con calma, e poi attraversate Kødbyen in direzione del Bryggebroen, il ponte più recente della città che con un’ampia pista ciclabile e una pedonale collega est e ovest di Copenaghen. Percorrete il ponte e prendete il traghetto in direzione Nordre Toldbod: il tragitto dura circa trenta minuti ed avrete modo di ammirare le strutture della biblioteca reale e dell’Opera house.


Arrivati a destinazione seguite la folla di turisti ed arriverete allo scoglio più famoso d’Europa, che sorregge la statua della Sirenetta realizzata dallo scultore Edvard Eriksen. La statua vi stupirà, soprattutto se i commenti denigratori delle guide e dei siti di viaggio avranno abbassato le vostre aspettative. Certo, questa piccola statua di bronzo non è paragonabile ai capolavori delle altre capitali europee, ma è suggestivo pensare che se ne stia li, a pochi passi dal molo, senza che nessuno possa raggiungerla se non immergendosi fino alla vita.


Per rifocillarvi da questa passeggiata, vi consigliamo una pausa alla pasticceria Taste, su Storekongengsgade, poco lontano dalla statua e  dalla fortezza del Re, dove potrete gustare delle torte sublimi. A questo punto è arrivato il momento del divertimento…tornate verso il centro e immergetevi nell’atmosfera del Tivoli (Vesterbrogade, 3), il parco divertimenti che rappresenta una delle mete turistiche più famose di Copenaghen. Se non siete amanti di montagne russe e otto volanti, potrete comunque concedervi una passeggiata tra le aiuole, e magari fermarvi a guardare gli spettacoli all’aperto o ad ascoltare i concerti di musica che si tengono in varie zone del parco. Tivoli chiude alle 23, ma se avete ancora la voglia, e la forza, di godervi Copenaghen by night entrate in qualche bar del centro e rilassatevi al suono della musica jazz che in questa città la fa da padrona.

Se avete ancora una mattinata a disposizione, saltate su un treno in direzione Helsingør e scendete alla fermata Humblebaek, da dove dovrete semplicemente seguire le indicazioni che portano al museo Louisiana. Si tratta di una galleria di arte moderna assolutamente imperdibile, sia per le interessanti esposizioni, sia per la bellezza dell’enorme villa che ospita il museo. Visitate le diverse ali del museo, lasciatevi tentare dalle stampe e dagli oggetti di design danese in vendita nello store, e poi rilassatevi.

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