Napoli trasuda di storia e superstizione; non è un caso che la smorfia indichi al numero 1: il brivido blu, la sensazione di terrore che si prova in presenza di uno spettro e al numero 90: la paura.
Re, regine, principi, pescatori e briganti, uomini, donne e bambini, non c’è strada della città che non celi un segreto, non c’è quartiere che non nasconda un fantasma, nei vicoli intricati del centro storico si delineano infiniti itinerari del mistero.
Gli scavi archeologici, le chiese e i palazzi nobiliari rappresentano un confronto diretto tra passato e presente, attraverso un territorio che conserva tracce dell’inesorabile passaggio del tempo e che rimane custode di agghiaccianti memorie, feroci delitti e implacabili anatemi; attraverso gli antichi decumani è possibile scoprire le storie dei personaggi che hanno vissuto la loro vita nel dedalo di vicoli della Napoli greco – romana tra culti esoterici e cerimonie sotterranee.
Nel cuore della città, in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, tre palazzi: Palazzo Sansevero, la Basilica di San Domenico e Palazzo Petrucci rappresentano i tre vertici di un triangolo magico che catalizza tutta l’energia misteriosa custodita in questi luoghi.
Nell’antica dimora del Principe Sansevero, si narrano leggende che collegano con un filo di sangue il Principe con il celebre compositore, Principe di Venosa, Carlo Gesualdo, precedente proprietario del palazzo. La notte del 18 ottobre 1590, il principe, sorprese e uccise sua moglie Maria d’Avalos e il suo amante, il Duca Fabrizio Carafa; il principe non esitò nemmeno a far esporre i due cadaveri, nudi e sanguinanti, all’ingresso del palazzo. A tale efferatezza si aggiunse anche l’oltraggio di un gobbo, una sorta di sagrestano, che infilatosi verso tarda notte nel palazzo, diradatasi ormai la folla di curiosi e ritiratisi i servi, violò il corpo esanime della d’Avalos.
Temendo la vendetta dei Carafa, Gesualdo fuggì da Napoli, vivendo per sempre privo di serenità e con un profondo senso di colpa che invase permanentemente la sua coscienza.
Condannato al dolore eterno, il fantasma della bellissima Maria vaga da allora ogni notte per le buie strade di piazza San Domenico Maggiore e dintorni. In vesti succinte, i capelli mossi dalla brezza, si aggira afflitta alla ricerca del suo amante.
Il successivo inquilino niente fece per screditare le leggende circa i suoi poteri magici. Fu infatti filosofo, chimico, alchimista e inventore, tutte attività che nel XVI secolo si traducevano in magia; le particolari macchine idrauliche e pirotecniche, fruttp e i risultato dei suoi studi possono essere ammirati nella Cappella a lui dedicata, insieme ai corpi cristallizzati di due schiavi di colore e al celebre Cristo Velato. È nelle notti di Natale e Pasqua che la cappella si anima per incanto, illuminata da una strana luce, nei vicoli circostanti inconfondibile un forte odore di incenso, mentre note di organo provenienti dall’interno si odono chiaramente.
Secondo vertice del triangolo è la Basilica che affaccia nella strassa piazza. Costruita verso la fine del 1200, il suo aspetto la fa apparire quasi come una rocca fortificata. Al suo interno è custodito un crocifisso, che i monaci narrano avesse parlato a San Tommaso d’Aquino; inoltre nella sagrestia ci sono le tombe di 45 nobili napoletani, appartenenti alla casa aragonese, che qui riposano quasi come custodi del monumento.
Infine Palazzo Petrucci, è tra le sue colonne che sono conservate le teste mozzate di sei baroni che avevano ordito una congiura contro Ferrante I. Residenza di Antonello Petrucci, conte di Policastro e fedele alleato di Ferrante d’Aragona, il Petrucci divenne poi inspiegabilmente uno degli artefici della famigerata congiura del 1485, non esitando a incontrarsi con gli altri congiurati persino nella sua stessa dimora.
Svelato l’inganno e fallita la congiura, il conte fu arrestato e condannato a morte, insieme ai suoi complici, per alto tradimento alla corona. Strane presenze si avvertirebbero da allora all’interno dell’antico edificio. Pare infatti che il Petrucci sia rimasto ospite del palazzo e che sia solito, ancora oggi, riunirsi in più di un’occasione coi suoi compagni di congiura.
Non è qui che si fermano di certo le leggende su Napoli, risalendo tra le affascinanti penombre di via Tribunali, si incontra la Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco dove sacro e profano, magia e religione si fondono nel segno delle anime pezzentelle.
L’accoglienza è abbastanza esplicativa, due teschi in ottone perfettamente lucidati accolgono il visitatore all’ingresso, entrati nella minuscola chiesa, si potrà scendere e nell’ipogeo, in cui si trova uno degli ossari più noti della città partenopea. È qui che emergono evidenti le credenze popolari circa l’importanza del culto dei morti nella Napoli del seicento, secondo cui le anime bisognose di suffragi trovano sollievo nel culto delle ossa dei morti privi di identità che sono affidate alla pietas cittadina. Compito del popolo era velocizzare il transito dei defunti dal Purgatorio al Paradiso mediante il rito dell’adozione dei teschi, cui si offrono salmi e preghiere, fiori e lumini, ma soprattutto un’attenta pulizia e lucidatura. La più celebre delle leggende racchiuse tra queste mura è quella dell’anima di Lucia, morta in un naufragio insieme al suo sposo, figura alla quale, tutt’oggi, vengono richieste grazie e intercessioni e vengono offerti fiori e foto dei familiari come ex voto.
Un connubio tra mistero e cultura, cabala e teatro che lascia nei visitatori una chiara e profonda inquietudine.
Giunti a Piazza San Gaetano, nell’area dell’antica agorà greca e teatro della rivolta di Masaniello, riecheggia la leggenda del Munaciello, il personaggio esoterico più noto, più temuto, ma anche più amato dal popolo napoletano. Spiritello simpatico, bizzarro e piuttosto imprevedibile.
La leggenda nasce dall’amore osteggiato tra un giovane garzone e la figlia di ricchi mercanti, che si incontravano di notte sulle terrazze di Piazza Mercato. In un agguato, una notte, il giovane rimase ucciso e Caterinella, pazza di dolore chiese ospitalità presso un monastero, ma pochi mesi dopo, la giovane diede alla luce un bimbo deforme che il popolino cominciò a chiamare “munaciello”. Ben presto si diffuse l’idea che il munaciello avesse in sé qualcosa di magico, di sovrannaturale e se indossava il cappuccio rosso buone notizie erano in arrivo; se il cappuccio stesso era nero, tremende sciagure erano in agguato.
Il munaciello, ancora oggi, si aggirerebbe lì dov’è vissuto. Molti giurano di averlo visto e di aver subito i suoi scherzi e i suoi dispetti. I napoletani gli attribuiscono piccoli incidenti domestici, nonché i propri vizi e le proprie debolezze. Uno spiritello bizzarro, un piccolo diavolo che s’insedia nelle case, temuto e rispettato. Forse in realtà la leggenda nasce dalla figura del gestore degli antichi pozzi d’acqua, che riusciva ad avere facile accesso nelle case passando attraverso i cunicoli che servivano a calare il secchio. I dispetti probabilmente venivano fatti ai proprietari del pozzo che non provvedevano a pagarlo per i suoi servizi.
All’opposto del Munaciello c’è ‘A Bella ‘Mbriana, uno spirito benigno, una creatura misteriosa, una presenza gentile e benevola portatrice di benessere e salute. Molti la descrivono come una donna molto bella e ben vestita, una giovane donna dal viso dolce e sereno, una figura chiara e solare. Il suo nome deriva appunto dal latino meridiana, vale a dire “l’ora più luminosa del giorno”.
Dall’altro lato della città, Palazzo Donn’Anna, situato lungo la strada che conduce a Posillipo, uno degli edifici più curiosi e spettrali del napoletano, parte incompiuta di una meravigliosa residenza progettata da Cosimo Fanzago. La leggenda vuole che la Regina Giovanna I abitasse più volte in quel palazzo e qui riceveva i suoi amanti e una volta consumato l’amplesso li faceveva uccidere. Del marinaio Salvatore, promesso sposo della bella Maria Stella, si invaghì la Regina. Anch’egli sparì dopo poco e ancora oggi, come allora, seduta su una colonna, alla quale i pescatori legavano le loro barche, la povera Maria Stella attende pazientemente il ritorno dell’amato, con lo sguardo fisso all’orizzonte.
Ultima tappa è il cosidetto Cimitero delle Fontanelle, nel quartiere della Sanità, costruito in un antica cava di tufo era l’ossario dove venivano ammassati tutti i morti di epidemie, dalla terribile peste del 1656 fino all’epidemia di colera del 1836. File di centinaia di teschi, ossa ammassate, piccole bare e piramidi di scheletri, questo è il luogo per eccellenza per il culto delle ossa; che consisteva nell’adottare un cranio sconosciuto, abbandonato, privo di preghiere, dandogli sistemazione in una cassetta di legno o marmo affinché fosse riparato dalla polvere, e al quale offrire voti e preghiere in cambio di favori e grazie. Diverse leggende si narrano tra queste alte pareti, da quella del Teschio del Capitano a quella dei due amanti.
Centinaia sono le storie oltre queste che si raccontano tra i vicoli di Napoli alla ricerca di fantasmi e presenze infestanti: dallo spettro di Ferdinando IV di Borbone, che passeggia a Villa Floridiana, al bambino che piange lungo i binari della stazione di Gianturco, passando dallo spirito del cavaliere romano Publio Vedio Pollione che nello stabilimento balneare di Villa Imperiale a Posillipo continua a spegnere sempre lo stesso lampione per potere rientrare a casa indisturbato e da Piazza Dante, che durante la peste del 1656 fu un lazzaretto a cielo aperto e nelle notti d’inverno passando sotto Port’Alba può capitare di udire gemiti e lamenti; perché, come diceva il grande Eduardo: “Avevate ragione, i fantasmi esistono, ci ho parlato” (Eduardo De Filippo, Questi fantasmi)
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