Vesuvio, borboni e briganti_Storie del Vesuvio

postato in: All posts, Campania360°, Italia | 607

Riposa e osserva dall’alto, intanto in molti mi chiedono continuamente come si fa a vivere a pochi chilometri da un vulcano, ma il rapporto che si instaura tra la montagna e gli abitanti che la popolano è difficile da spiegare.

Distruzione e vita, grazie al Vesuvio questa terra si è guadagnata l’appellativo di Campania Felix, a dispetto di tutte le tragedie ecologiche che l’attraversano. Boschi e sentieri si sono generati nel corso dei secoli, fino a quando l’uomo, sfruttando la terra fertile, ha cominciato a coltivare vitigni, agrumeti e altre colture, a pochi passi dal mare su un terreno ricchissimo di minerali.

La distruzione di Pompei ed Ercolano del 79 d.c. troppe volte fa da sfondo ai racconti di un’eruzione tremenda, esplosiva, distruttrice che oltre alle due grandi città sommerse Oplonti, Stabia e Boscoreale, ma il vulcano tante volte ha fatto sentire la sua voce nel corso dei secoli e per capire il legame vero che c’è tra il Vesuvio e la sua gente è necessario arrampicarsi sulle sue pendici e scoprirne prospettive e bellezze.

Vi racconteremo diversi percorsi avendo sempre come meta finale la sommità del Vesuvio, ma risalendo da diverse strade e sentieri, lasciandoci guidare da tradizioni, racconti, panorami, leggende, enogastronomia. Il primo percorso salta dalla storia alla leggenda, raccontando di Re, miracoli, e poeti.

Vesuvio, Borboni e Briganti

Un primo percorso si sviluppa tutto all’interno della zona che una volta era conosciuta Sylva Mala, la zona est, che dalla costa di Stabia e Torre del Greco si arrampica fino alla cima della montagna. Un tempo questa ricca e florida zona era quella più apprezzata, perchè in bilico tra l’azzurro del mare e il verde del vulcano, queste strade erano percorse durante il Grand Tour che portava dalle rovine di Pompei al cratere e molte volte diventano luogo di sosta anche per lunghi periodi. Proprio quello che successe a Giacomo Leopardi, invitato qui dall’amico Antonio Ranieri, fu ospitato nell’ultimo periodo della sua vita nella villa di famiglia, sulle pendici del Vesuvio e qui compose alcune tra le sue opere più famose come “la ginestra“, da cui oggi prende il nome la villa. Appartenente al complesso nobiliare delle ville vesuviane, fu costruita apposta per ospitare i personaggi dell’epoca che venivano a cercare qui fresco e tranquillità.

Scendendo verso il mare si raggiunge la Chiesetta di Santa Maria del Principio. Più recente della tragedia di Pompei, questa chiesa di Torre del Greco, conserva una storia fatta di presunti miracoli e credenze popolari risalenti all’eruzione del 1794, quando in una notte di giugno la lava del Vesuvio spazzò via tutto ciò che incontrava sulla sua strada, compresa la piccola chiesa sul porto. Gli scavi iniziati i giorni successivi riportarono alla luce resti di colonne, di pavimenti maiolicati, completamente inglobati nel materiale lavico, fino a quando fu raggiunto l’affresco dell’altare maggiore, perfettamente integro e miracolosamente scavalcato e risparmiato dall’impeto della lava. La scoperta fu così sensazionale che la famiglia reale da Napoli venne in visita alla chiesa e attraverso una botola preparata apposta per loro scesero nei cunicoli scavati nella lava per raggiungere l’opera.

Ultima tappa di questo primo percorso è la salita verso Punta Nasone, a 1131 metri sul livello del mare per scoprire storia e tradizioni di queste terre. Il percorso percorso è impegnativo e fu scelto da diversi eremiti come rifugio spirituale e dai briganti come luogo per nascondersi.
Si parte da Somma Vesuviana e risalendo il sentiero alle spalle della parte alta del paese si arriva alla cima del Monte Somma, la montagna che un tempo nascondeva il cono vesuviano;da qui si ha un’incredibile vista sulla Valle del Gigante, quella che appunto divide il Monte Somma dal Vesuvio, e sul cratere principale, con il sentiero che porta fino alla cima, in basso invece si alternano i boschi alle lastre laviche che nel corso dei secoli si sono riversate nella vallata sottostante, trovando poi sbocco verso i centri abitati. La sensazione più strana è l’evidenza di trovarsi su di una montagna a forma di semicerchio, all’interno della quale è nato il cono del Vesuvio.

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