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Se i km da fare sono così tanti ci tocca partire quando il cielo è ancora buio. Ore 04:00 di venerdì 08 agosto riempiamo le macchina, siamo in 7, 2 auto, parecchie valigie e qualche zainetto, macchine fotografiche, destinazione: i Balcani, passando per Trieste, che in effetti è la porta per quel mondo eterogeneo e affascinante che si estende dall’altro lato dell’Adriatico.

Trieste in un giorno soltanto

Il primo giorno sarà di viaggio, Salerno – Trieste sono 900 km e ci sarà da camminare in questo venerdì di Agosto, e dopo 900 km eccola Trieste, arrivi dall’alto, dalle spalle e lei è distesa sulla costa dopo km di pianura.

Visitare Trieste è un po’ come attraversare diverse città, succede sempre così per le città di frontiera: romana, asburgica, slava, italiana; il consiglio è di iniziare ad esplorarla dal suo punto più alto, il Colle di San Giusto. Dal Colle si può godere di un panorama mozzafiato sulla città, con alle spalle i due monumenti simbolo, il castello e la cattedrale di San Giusto, a due passi c’è anche la sede della comunità croata triestina, questo fa avere un’idea sulla mescolanza di popoli che ancora vivono nella città. Subito dopo scendete per via Rota, scaletta dopo scaletta ed addentratevi nel cuore della città vecchia, lo sguardo spazia ancora per un po’ sui tetti e le terrazze della Trieste “moderna”, ma è solo un colpo d’occhio, perché subito dopo iniziano le viuzze strette con nomi che hanno sapori antichi: via dell’Asilo, via Chiauchiaria, via dei Verzieri.

Addentrandosi nella città si respira si respira la Trieste vecchia, quella delle casette e dei vicoli stretti, quella dei caffè letterari dove trascorrevano del tempo Joyce, Svevo, Saba. James Joyce cominciò qui a scrivere l’Ulisse, ad Italo Svevo sono legati diversi luoghi della città come il Caffè San Marco, che frequentava abitualmente, la Biblioteca Civica di Piazza Hortis o il Giardino pubblico di Via Giulia dove lo scrittore ha ambientato diversi momenti nei suoi romanzi.

Anche Sir Richard Burton (viaggiatore, orientalista, scrittore) è rimasto in città per tanti anni, dedicandosi alla traduzione di alcune tra le opere più famose della letteratura mondiale come “Le mille e una notte”. Il grande valore storico di questa città lo respiri ad ogni angolo, il cuore è Piazza Unità d’Italia, magnificamente affacciata sul mare, circondata da palazzi neoclassici, ognuno dei quali avrebbe lunghe storie da raccontare: il Municipio, di fronte al mare e tristemente famoso perchè dai suoi balconi Mussolini emanò le leggi razziali fasciste; alzando poi gli occhi al cielo c’è il Palazzo del Lloyd Triestino dell’architetto Ferstel, che ospitò la più antica compagnia di navigazione italiana; ancora, Palazzo Pitteri, l’unico risalente al Settecento e il più antico della piazza; e infine palazzo Stratti, dove si trova anche il caffè degli Specchi, storico caffè triestino.

Allungando lo sguardo, proteso nel mare, c’è Molo Audace, lingua di cemento che si protrae nel mare; qui si è scritto uno dei pezzi più belli della storia italiana: fu inizialmente costruito nel periodo della Trieste asburgica, sul relitto di una nave affondata di fronte la costa, ma fu qui che nel 1918 il cacciatorpediniere Audace, della Marina italiana, attraccò per primo per sancire la definitiva appartenenza della città al giovane Regno d’Italia. Proprio qui sul molo, da un lato le statue in bronzo “Le Ragazze di Trieste” intente a cucire il tricolore, ci ricordano la volontà e le lotte che la città ha sostenuto nei secoli per essere parte d’Italia, dal lato opposto la Rosa dei Venti, ci riporta in una città protesa verso il mare, senza patria e aperta al mondo.

Vale la visita una passeggiata tra i caffè storici come il Caffè San Marco, aperto nel 1914, ritrovo d’eccellenza di intellettuali e irredentisti , che passavano qui serate intere impegnati in animate conversazioni. Si dice che qui venissero distribuiti passaporti falsi per evitare l’arruolamento nelle file austro-ungariche. Il caffè fu completamente distrutto durante la prima guerra mondiale, per essere ricostruito subito dopo e tornare a essere il ritrovo favorito di artisti e intellettuali. Tra i frequentatori abituali c’erano Joyce, Svevo e Saba.

Il Caffè Tommaseo, aperto nel 1830 è il più antico caffè di Trieste e conserva ancora oggi il gusto retrò tipicamente viennese grazie alle grandi specchiere alle pareti, ai lampadari in vetro soffiato, alle poltrone in velluto cremisi e soprattutto alle belle e raffinate decorazioni. Il Caffè Stella Polare, invece, aperto nel 1867, era il preferito dagli austriaci e diventato famoso grazie ai militari americani, durante l’occupazione degli alleati a Trieste, che nella sala da ballo del caffè venivano a conquistare le donne italiane.

Alla fine ci sono gli splendidi palazzi neoclassici delle Rive. Palazzo Gopcevich, progettato dall’architetto Berlam nel 1850, affacciato sul Canal Grande, e Palazzo Carciotti, progettato dall’architetto Pertsch nel 1802, erano entrambi lussuose dimore di ricchi commercianti o la Borsa Vecchia, ora sede della Camera di Commercio, con il monumentale pronao in puro stile neoclassico, e il Tergesteo, una costruzione ottocentesca ideata come centro d’affari e dotata di una galleria in vetro e metallo.

Trieste merita una visita lunga, merita di essere vissuta e scoperta nelle sue mille sfaccettature, ma noi purtroppo a Trieste restiamo un solo giorno, sarà la nostra porta d’ingresso verso i Balcani, ruolo che da sempre rappresenta croce e delizia di questa magnifica città.

Giorno 2_Plitvice, polmone verde di Croazia

Di nuovo in strada, questa volta ad attenderci sono paesaggi diversi da quelli attraversati il giorno precedente, prima la Slovenia e poi la Croazia.

CONSIGLI: se partite da Trieste in auto non predente l’autostrada che porta al confine, ma seguite, come abbiamo fatto noi, la strada per Basovizza e poi Pesek. Se decidete di prendere l’autostrada procuratevi a Trieste il bollino, non arrivate ai caselli in Slovenia sprovvisti perchè vi toccherà pagare una mega-multa.

La Slovenia è un susseguirsi di prati verdi, boschi in lontananza e mucche al pascolo, i piccoli gruppi di case sembrano villaggi alpini, ma in effetti siamo poco lontani dagli archi alpini e la natura lo dimostra continuamente. Lungo la strada pronti ad accogliere i turisti si susseguono ristoranti con maialini allo spiedo in bella mostra e cartelli di fitta-camere. Abbiamo due confini da superare e decidiamo di non fermarci, soprattutto perchè il maialino allo spiedo forse non è il modo migliore di iniziare la giornata.

I due confini si superano facilmente, solo un po’ di traffico e qualche controllo frettoloso alla dogana, seguiamo direzione Rijeka, quella che una volta era conosciuta come Fiume, e poi ci infiliamo nel cuore verde della Croazia,, l’obiettivo per oggi è raggiungere il Parco Nazionale dei laghi di Plitvice; si raggiunge in circa 3 ore di guida da Trieste, proseguendo per Karlovac e poi seguendo le indicazioni per il parco, noi non ci siamo fidati e abbiamo scelto di lasciare l’autostrada a Vrbovsko, e seguire per una strada esterna, risultato: ci si impiega oltre un’ora in più anche se si attraversano strade strette immerse nel verde, paesini microscopici formati da poche case, si incontrano venditori di formaggio e miele, un salto indietro nel tempo.

Arrivati c’è solo l’imbarazzo della scelta su come organizzare il proprio tempo, infatti il parco si estende su una superficie di 33.000 ettari e si compone di 16 laghi, su diversi dislivelli, ma tutti collegati tra loro. Un piccolo bus elettrico vi accompagnerà dalla biglietteria all’inizio del percorso e se non siete attrezzati comprate acqua da bere prima di partire, perché naturalmente non si trova sui sentieri.

Nessun percorso è particolarmente difficoltoso, ma per i più lunghi ci vogliono fino a 5 ore di cammino, a seconda del tempo che si ha a disposizione si può scegliere il percorso più adatto, noi abbiamo preferito un percorso medio, circa 3 ore di cammino, arrivando nel punto più alto, ai piedi del lago Prošćansko per poi scendere verso valle.

Le passerelle di legno permettono di attraversare i punti meno raggiungibili, camminando sull’acqua a zig zag sui laghi. Si attraversa una natura selvaggia, fatti di cascate e canneti, alberi che nella stagione estiva regalano colori unici, poi d’improvviso di aprono enormi zone d’acqua e i laghi posti su vari livelli sono collegati da pareti ricche d’acqua e di ogni forma di vegetazione.

All’interno del parco si trovano anche numerose grotte di cui solo una piccola parte è agibile. Mentre i boschi sono popolati da 157 specie di uccelli, 50 di mammiferi, 76 di farfalle e 245 di falene, oltre ad altri animali, come l’orso bruno, il cinghiale, il lupo, la lince ed il capriolo. Alla fine del percorso un battello ci riporta nella zona della biglietteria, nel parco ci sono numerosi punti ristoro, ma anche posti dove fermarsi la notte, per potersi godere la natura incontaminata; per noi però breve sosta e pronti in macchina per ripartire, ci aspettano altri 140 km fino alla meta finale di oggi: Zadar.

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