Giorno 6 – Lungo la costa sud

“Questi gradini conducono al paradiso”. Mazara del Vallo non è la Tunisia, eppure le somiglia così tanto, eppure è così vicina. La Casbah è un intreccio di viuzze tra case bianche con tetti a cupola, non è il paradiso del multiculturalismo, ma qui senti parlare fino a 25 lingue diverse. Mazara del Vallo ci ha stupito.

La mattina del sesto giorno di viaggio lasciamo il campeggio poco a nord di Trapani con già 420 km percorsi e non siamo ancora a metà viaggio. Palermo prima, Trapani dopo ci hanno mostrato due Sicilie diverse, siamo curiosi di ciò che ci aspetta dopo; decidiamo di percorrere l’autostrada che da Trapani porta appunto a Mazara, questo purtroppo ci porta ad escludere un giro a Marsala, ma da Mazara ad Agrigento percorreremo tutte vie interne e questo dilaterà i tempi per gli spostamenti.

Mazar, l’antico nome della città fenicia, fu testa di ponte per lo sbarco degli arabi in Sicilia, e dopo capoluogo del distretto occidentale arabo; se ci fosse un’autostrada sul mare tra le coste africane e la cittadina ci vorrebbero poco più di un’ora di viaggio.

Per secoli uomini e storie sono hanno viaggiato da una costa all’altra del canale di Sicilia, purtroppo di quei secoli non resta più nulla, ne le mura poderose, ne il castello sul mare, ne la Moschea Grande e altri mille anni ci sono voluti perché i mazaresi si accorgessero dell’enorme tesoro storico-culturale di cui sono i custodi. Unica superstite di quei giorni è proprio la Casbah, tipico quartiere arabo, costruito per proteggere gli abitanti dal sole che qui splende tutto l’anno e dal vento proveniente dal mare. Dal 2009 il quartiere ha smesso di essere il ghetto fatto di ruderi e case abbandonate e grazie al Progetto “Fenice” la zona è rinata.

Alla Casbah si accede da piazza della Repubblica, da li, tra i vicoli, scorgerete maioliche colorate incastonate sulle mura, installazioni che colorano i cortili e che ne narrano le tradizioni, targhe che narrano la storia del posto. Una di queste racconta la storia di Scala del Serraglio, i cui gradini condurrebbero al paradiso: qui sedevano i vecchi marinai, non più in grado di andare per mare, che attendevano il rientro delle barche e in dono un po’ di pesce.
Continuate a passeggiare e lasciate amplificare i sensi, catturate, non solo i colori che riempiono i vicoli e gli slarghi, ma anche i profumi delle spezie e del cous cous e le voci che provengono dalle piccole finestre che affacciano in strada. Passeggiate fin quando non sarete stanchi, non preoccupatevi della strada e se troverete qualche porta socchiusa, provate a buttare un occhio, vi sorprenderanno le pareti ricche di arazzi, le tende, i tappeti e qualche bicchiere di tè su di un tavolino.

Noi eravamo attrezzati per un pranzo veloce, ma ci siamo lasciati tentare e assaggiato un po’ di specialità locali, che oltre ad ogni sorta di piatto a base di pesce, comprendono anche piatti della tradizione nord africana. Il centro è ricco di ristorantini, noi ci siamo fermati al Cafè Garibaldi e la scelta è stata ottima.

Viaggiare in macchina alle 14:00 sulla costa sud della Sicilia forse non è una scelta indovinata, ma il viaggio on the road è anche questo. Lungo il percorso il paesaggio si trasforma ancora una volta, si passa dalle verdeggianti coste trapanesi ad una vegetazione bassa, più arida; anche i paesini che attraversiamo hanno come colore predominante il giallo, come se bruciassero dal sole.

Dopo 44 km circa una distesa di sabbia attira l’attenzione, costeggiamo il mare e una magnifica spiaggia. Siamo a Porto Palo, una frazione di Menfi di 116 abitanti, l’antico porto di Selinunte; scendiamo in spiaggia, la sabbia è sottilissima, l’acqua cristallina, su una spiaggia che si estende per chilometri, le persone si contano sulle dita di una mano: questi sono i posti che ci fanno innamorare.

La sosta è breve, purtroppo, ma in programma c’è un’altra tappa prima della destinazione: Sciacca, a circa 25 km. Una cittadina di media grandezza che conserva ancora il suo impianto medievale; qui, come nel resto della costa mediterranea siciliana, la pesca è l’attività economica di primaria importanza. Sciacca si divide perciò in due zone: la parte bassa, con il porto, le casette dei pescatori e gli innumerevoli pescherecci, e la parte alta, zona del centro storico, dove passeggiando vi sorprenderanno i numerosi ed eleganti palazzi.

Poco lontano dal centro si trova un luogo sorprendente e bizzarro, il Castello Incantato, regno dell’artista Filippo Bentivegna. Un luogo che qualcuno, sminuendo la sorpresa, definirebbe assurdo. Teste, volti, scolpiti nella pietra, 20.000 volti adagiati sulla roccia che circondano il visitatore; ognuno diverso dall’altro, sembrano voler raccontare tutte le facce del mondo.

Gli ultimi 50 km che ci dividono dal Camping che ci ospiterà per altre due notti, a circa 3 km da Agrigento, li percorriamo guardandoci intorno, osservando il paesaggio cambiare di continuo, entusiasti di questa Sicilia meridionale, tanto sconosciuta, tanto affascinante.

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