I vicoli di Napoli nascondono percorsi sconosciuti a volte ai suoi stessi cittadini. Se non si è curiosi di guardare dietro l’angolo non si scopriranno mai i segreti che questa città offre e che negli ultimi tempi stanno venendo fuori grazie all’impegno della società civile.
A Napoli oltre duecento scale, tra “gradonate” e “pedamentine” storiche, portano dal mare alle colline.
Se vai a Napoli e vuoi vedere il panorama più bello del mondo, devi salire sul piazzale della Certosa di San Martino, e se lì, abbassi lo sguardo ti incuriosirà quella strana scalinata che con una serie di tornanti scende verso la città.
La Pedamentina di San Martino è sicuramente la più celebre di queste scale, oltre che la più lunga e antica. Il collegamento è tra la collina del Vomero e il centro storico, il ventre di Napoli. Scendi le prime due rampe e ti ritrovi in una dimensione inattesa, circondato da silenzi così rari da queste parti. La seconda rampa regala la vista del golfo con il Vesuvio sullo sfondo, panorami che dilatano lo sguardo.
Poi è tutto un susseguirsi di vigne, scorci di campagna e vecchi casali ristrutturati; in uno di questi soggiornò anche Baudelaire e su questi gradoni Marguerite Yourcenar ambientò il suo racconto “Anna soror”.
La voglia ritrovata di lentezza, i nuovi percorsi di Trekking Urbano hanno spinto il Coordinamento Recupero Scale di Napoli a proseguire il suo lavoro su altri numerosi percorsi.
Praticamente collegato alla Pedamentina c’è lo Scalone monumentale di Montesanto, opera del Filangieri, lungo le quali Vittorio De Sica girò alcune scene del “Giudizio Universale”; su quei gradoni ha aperto Q.I., Quartiere Intelligente, laboratorio di arte e trampolino di lancio per un esperimento di smart city tra le mura di un vecchio opificio dell’ottocento con annesso un terreno incolto ora trasformato in orto didattico per i bambini del quartiere.
Dal lato opposto della collina del Vomero rispetto alla Pedamentina scende il Petraio, giungendo fino a corso Vittorio Emanuele. Il percorso su un terreno sassoso, che costeggia la Vigna di San Martino, un antico appezzamento agricolo curato un tempo dai monaci, quasi un monumento nazionale per la valenza storica e paesaggistica, gli eleganti palazzi liberty del Vomero e i tipici “bassi” partenopei, in questa zona però ricchi di finestre panoramiche e terrazzini.
Poco meno di un km e mezzo di strada collega Piazza Leonardo all’antico Mercato della Pignasecca, prima la seicentesca salita Cacciottoli e poi con la ripida scalinata di Sant’Antonio ai Monti: un vicolo che fende il le alte pareti di tufo giallo, passando sotto il ponte del Corso Vittorio Emanuele e proseguendo tra bassi, chiese abbandonate, panni stesi al sole. Il consiglio è di evitare il primo tratto, solitario e sporco, ma godersi il panorama dal Parco Viviani e poi proseguire lungo la seconda parte del percorso.
Purtroppo manca ancora qualsiasi forma di segnaletica stradale o turistica che permetta di raggiungere e scoprire questi antichi percorsi, e manca anche una mappatura completa per orientarsi. Ciò che vi suggeriamo è di sfogliare il volume fotografico Scorciatoie di Simone Florena, un percorso fotografico tra gli angoli di questa Napoli segreta.
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