8 Lug 2015

#SalernoC2C_ Paestum e il suo mix di cibo e arte

di | postato in: All posts, Campania360°, Italia | 478

Immersa nella Piana del Sele, nascosta al traffico dei turisti che si sposta verso il Cilento, a metà tra i monti del Vallo di Diano e il mar Tirreno, Paestum vive ancora imponente grazie ai suoi templi. Poseidonia, l’antico nome greco, trasformato prima in Paistom dai lucani per poi latinizzarsi e diventare Paestum, nome con cui ancora tutti la conoscono.

Grazie al blogtour #SalernoC2C abbiamo potuto visitare questa meraviglia, nata ormai 2.500 anni fa ha visto calcare le sue strade da non poche popolazioni: parte della nobile Magna Grecia, divenne lucana e poi romana per essere infine abbandonata a causa del terreno troppo paludoso. Raccontata dai poeti nel rinascimento senza neanche conoscerne l’esatta ubicazione, ma immaginandola meravigliosa grazie alle citazioni di Virgilio e Ovidio, che narravano la bellezza ed il profumo delle rose pestane che fiorivano due volte in un anno. Nel ‘700 sotto il regno borbonico fu riportata alla luce l’antica città, oltre ai templi, vennero alla luce la cinta muraria e l’anfiteatro, il contrasto con il panorama rurale dei dintorni, nei disegni degli artisti, dona quell’immagine di Campania Felix tanto amata nelle epoche passate.

La riscoperta di Paestum, perciò, di cui era rimasto solo un vago ricordo, si deve a Carlo di Borbone e alla costruzione della strada che ancora oggi attraversa il sito archeologico e che trasformò l’antica Poseidonia in una tappa obbligata del Grand Tour.

«Finalmente, incerti, se camminavamo su rocce o su macerie, potemmo riconoscere alcuni massi oblunghi e squadrati, che avevamo già notato da distante, come templi sopravvissuti e memorie di una città una volta magnifica.»
(Goethe, Viaggio in Italia, 1787)

Ultimi, in ordine cronologico, marciarono qui i pesanti anfibi degli Alleati, nel 1943, calpestarono queste antiche strade che divennero la base degli elmetti americani durante la risalita verso la liberazione della penisola italiana.

I templi dorici di Paestum si ergono nella piana, con una perfezione che solo i greci riuscivano a concretizzare, raffinatezza e semplicità. Lo splendore di Paestum sta in questo suo vigore elementare, quasi selvaggio; una fine meno nobile e affascinante di Pompei, ma la sensazione che accoglie i visitatori è mistica, un silenzio che circonda il tutto e che riporta indietro nel tempo, ad una civiltà legata all’essenziale anche nei piaceri.

La mole delle colonne del tempio di Poseidone, il meglio conservato, lo rendono unico e spettacolare, quasi una riproduzione dei templi ateniesi e agrigentini, l’enorme frontone del tempio di Atena e la perfetta geometria della Basilica, l’antico tribunale, danno l’idea della maestosità del sito e della grandezza della città in epoca antica.

Paestum però non è solo archeologia, e quale occasione migliore che lasciarsi andare ai piaceri del palato. La strada della mozzarella passa a due passi da qui, un’enorme bretella di asfalto che da Battipaglia si immerge nel cuore della costa cilentana, attraversando campi un tempo paludosi che oggi sono floride zone di pascolo. Ad ogni angolo si intravedono loro, le protagoniste di questa terra, le bufale; in tutta la loro imponenza, trascorrono le giornate al pascolo per poi rientrare al calar del sole. Grazie a loro che qui si producono le mozzarelle, famose in tutto il mondo, uno dei simboli dell’italian food.

I campi si susseguono e c’è solo l’imbarazzo della scelta su dove fermarsi: poco lontano dall’area Archeologica di Paestum c’è l’Azienda Agricola Barlotti. Nata agli inizi del 1900 è una delle più antiche realtà produttive della Piana del Sele di Paestum. Già nota per l’allevamento di bufale e per la produzione di latte, nel corso degli anni l’Azienda ha conquistato anche il gusto della gente con i sapori della sua mozzarella, il formaggio fresco per eccellenza, a pasta molle, cruda e filata a sfoglie sovrapposte dalla crosta sottilissima. Le prime testimonianze sulla mozzarella di bufala risalgono al 1400, quando veniva chiamata semplicemente Mozza, perché la fase finale del processo di lavorazione termina con la mozzatura, il taglio.

Ma le Bufale non sono originarie di queste terre, forse sono arrivate qui dalle paludi asiatiche, con le invasioni barbariche, intorno al 1100, ci sono documenti dell’epoca che parlano già di un formaggio speciale fatto dal latte della bufala. Se visitare un’azienda vinicola ha un fascino romantico, richiamando alla mente le immagini della raccolta dell’uva, della pestatura e riporta alla mente il profumo del mosto, un caseificio ha una struttura più funzionale ed efficiente.

Se anticamente il lavoro si svolgeva nelle antiche bufalare, le caratteristiche costruzioni in muratura, dalla forma circolare con un cammino centrale, intorno al quale, sotto l’occhio esperto di un Mastro casaro, il latte diventava formaggio, caciocavallo, burro, ricotta, e provola, oggi si preferisce un ambiente quasi settico, dove continuamente viene effettuata la pulizia degli spazi dove viene lavorato il formaggio, dalle quattro di mattina a mezzogiorno.

I bocconcini che assaggiamo sono fantastici, piccole perle di mozzarella, da mangiare in un boccone, calde perchè appena fatte, cremose e con quell’untuosità e dolcezza con cui solo la mozzarella di bufala sa conquistare.

E infine le bufale, a riposare sotto le tettoie, hanno cibo e acqua in abbondanza. Tutte femmine e solo due maschi, che in disparte osserva la situazione. Da vicino sono davvero imponenti, ma qui trovano il loro ambiente perfetto, paludoso, con un’alta qualità di foraggio, che farà poi la differenza nella produzione della mozzarella. Abbiamo la fortuna di poter visitare anche lo spazio per i più piccoli, i cuccioli di bufala vivono in zone separate, a seconda dell’età; le più piccole hanno solo 10 giorni e come ogni cucciolo hanno solo voglia di giocare, indifferenti a ciò che accade intorno a loro.

Qui, per avere prodotti eccellenti, la tecnologia è al servizio della natura, infatti non è il clima o il terreno che creano la tipicità della mozzarella, ma le differenze sono nella qualità dei foraggi, nel benessere degli animali e nei processi produttivi.

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