Oasi del Fayoum, giardino d’Egitto

postato in: All posts, Egitto, Medio oriente, Mondo | 353

Quando ci si allontana dal Cairo non sembra possibile che davanti si aprano così tanti spazi. Deserto, distese verdi, palme, specchi d’acqua e strisce d’asfalto su cui scorrono centinaia di veicoli.

Allontanarsi dal Cairo è un ottimo modo per scoprire zone del paese affascinanti e legate a quell’Egitto mitologico che tutti immaginiamo; se le città come Alessandria, Luxor, Asswuan profumano di storia, le oasi rappresentano un percorso nel deserto unico.

Partendo dall’Oasi di Siwa un unico percorso porta fino all’Oasi del Fayoum, passando per Bahariya e il deserto bianco. Ma il Fayoum è facilmente raggiungibile anche dalla grande capitale egiziana, con poco più di due ore di auto sarà possibile trascorrere un fine settimana lontani dai rumori del traffico cittadino e dallo smog.

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Il Fayoum è un’oasi molto grande con una centro principale: Medinat el-Fayoum, una moderna cittadina poco interessante; consigliabile però è addentrarsi nel cuore della regione e raggiungere le sponde del Lago Qarun e in particolare il piccolo Tunis – village, un piccolo agglomerato di case costruite in fango e terracotta che sembra aver subito pochissimi cambiamenti nel corso dei secoli. Qui avrete la possibilità di alloggiare al Zad El Mosafer Ecolodge. Non aspettatevi servizi da Hotel, ma forse è questo il bello, dimenticarsi per un paio di giorni delle proprie abitudini e calarsi in un ambiente descritto solo nei romanzi. Poco da dire, se non siete questo tipo di viaggiatori allora sceglietevi un’altra meta.

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L’oasi esisteva già nell’antichità, il lago era collegato al Nilo da una serie di canali costruiti dai faraoni e divenne per questo uno dei siti preferiti dagli antichi re per i loro momenti di svago. L’Oasi del Fayoum è stato soprannominata il “giardino dell’Egitto“, per i rigogliosi campi di verdure e canna da zucchero e per le piantagioni di agrumi che danno raccolti estremamente abbondanti.

Le giornate trascorse nell’oasi saranno all’insegna del relax, noleggiate una barca per un giro sul lago Qarun, ormai inadatto al nuoto; grazie alla sua ricca flora è anche importante habitat per una moltitudine di uccelli, molti stormi infatti si alzano in volo continuamente dalle acque del lago. Se vi piace cavalcare l’oasi è un ottimo posto per poter seguire i diversi sentieri sul dorso di un cavallo, passeggiando o magari anche aumentando l’andatura se siete pratici.

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Il Fayoum racconta anche storie di forte impatto sociale. Il Fayoum Art Centre è una scuola d’arte creata dal pittore Mohamed Abla, luogo di incontro di artisti provenienti da ogni parte del mondo, organizza corsi di pittura e disegno a cui partecipano giovani egiziani e stranieri. La scuola ha dato vita anche al Museo della Caricatura, con una fantastica collezione di fumetti di satira sulla politica egiziana e sulle vicende mediorientali, lontano dal centro di potere della capitale e dagli occhi indiscreti della censura.

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tour-oasi-fayoum-egitto-visitare (6)Altro importante riferimento al Tunis village è la Scuola di Ceramica. Tra le viuzze di questo villaggio, negli anni ’70, quando neanche l’energia elettrica e l’acqua corrente raggiungevano le case, Evelyne Porret, svizzera di nascita, decise di stabilirsi qui e con un magnifico progetto, insegnò ai ragazzi, che volevano fuggire dalla vita contadina, l’arte della ceramica. La scuola è cresciuta, si è ampliata e oggi è un punto fermo nella vita di quest’area, i bambini cominciano da piccoli a modellare vasi e da grandi trasformano il proprio talento in arte sotto la guida di Evelyne che ancora li guida in tutto il percorso. La scuola è ospitata in un enorme complesso in mattoni, visitarlo vi sorprenderà.
tour-oasi-fayoum-egitto-visitare (10)Visitando una qualsiasi delle Oasi d’Egitto non potrete farvi scappare l’occasione di un’escursione nel deserto. La vera particolarità dell’Egitto è il continuo cambio di paesaggi e il deserto stesso vi sembrerà diverso a seconda della zona che visiterete. Partendo dal Fayoum, con una jeep e con una guida locale, dirigetevi verso Wadi al-Hittan, la valle delle balene; dove oggi si estende sabbia e rocce circa 40 milioni di anni fa un antico oceano copriva questa parte di terra, i segni si vedono sulle diverse colorazione della pietra, sui fossili di vegetali che emergono dalla sabbia, sulle strane forme scavate nelle rocce dall’acqua, ma soprattutto dai fossili degli scheletri di antiche balene preistoriche, lunghi fino a 18 metri, che giacciono in questa parte di deserto.

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Tornando verso il Tunis Village passerete per il Wadi Rayyan, un’area protetta con due enormi laghi artificiali creati per irrigare i campi intorno, ma che ormai non svolgono più questa funzione. La zona è luogo di sosta per molti uccelli migratori e la vegetazione intorno rende l’area fresca e rigogliosa; ciò che sorprende però è ritrovarsi di fronte ad alte cascate, nate dal defluire delle acque di uno dei due laghi e che dopo diversi salti scompaiono nella sabbia, come inghiottite, lasciando spazio solo al protagonista di quest’area: il Sahaara.

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