22 Lug 2015

A trip around an Iceland – Northern Iceland

di | postato in: All posts, Europa, Islanda, On the Road | 2.214

Parte 3_da Drangsnes al Lago Myvatn

Day_5: All’alba del giorno 5 ci siamo subito rimessi in corsa; obiettivo del giorno era salutare i Westfjords e addentrarci finalmente nell’Islanda del nord. Ma prima, una tappa: volevamo raggiungere l’angusto sito di Djupavik, prima di discendere ‘down to the north’.

Djupavik non ci avrebbe detto assolutamente nulla, se non fosse per il fatto che la Herring Factory abbandonata affossata in un fiordo, a circa 65.940 gradi di latitudine nord nella medesima località, ha accolto un concerto dei Sigur Rós nel 2007, presente nel documentario Heima. Ci sembrava una buona ragione per raggiungerla.

Ovviamente siamo usciti dai percorsi principali, e ci siamo trovati dinanzi circa tre ore di sterrato lungo tutto il perimetro dell’estremo lato orientale dei Vestfirðir. Colsi allora la necessità delle nostre guide in inglese, di ripetere a manetta l’aggettivo “dramatic” per ogni due righe d’Islanda. La parola “dramatic” ha un fascino tutto ossimorico, è l’Aleph delle definizioni di paesaggi dell’isola, che significa sia “enfatizzato, accentuato” che “incredibile, sensazionale”. Non saprei racchiudere meglio il concetto, con tanto di semantica fuorviante e ingannevole da eccellente ‘false friend’.

Rischierei di ripetermi, descrivere i soliti precipizi, i paletti catarifrangenti e pareti rocciose friabili, ma al calderone ci aggiungiamo forti raffiche di vento, tanta pioggia nella prima ora di tragitto, per poi veder discendere candidi fiocchi di neve giù per il dirupo, fino all’oceano aperto. Non eravamo pronti, tant’è che me ne stetti tutto il tempo con il telefono in mano, a controllare le road condition e a contattare continuamente il numero 1777 (‘Eh, salve, io mi trovo sulla 643 in direzione Djupavik… ma mica per caso è avvenuta una frana? Avete – che so – chiuso la strada? Ah, no…? Ok, grazie’. ‘Oh!, e pronto?, senta, qui comincia a nevicare… lei mi dice che… non… non è un problema, possiamo proseguire… d’accordo, grazie’).

Ci riparammo nell’accogliente albergo di Djupavik, dove una bella zuppa ci riscaldò e scambiammo due chiacchiere con Claus, un giovane ragazzo che trascorreva le estati a lavorare nell’albergo, e d’inverno se ne tornava a Reykjavik. «Tra non molto la strada che avete percorso per giungere fin quassù verrà chiusa, sarà completamente inaccessibile», ci spiegò Claus. «Non… non parli di oggi… vero Claus?», ci tenni a sottolineare io. «Oh, no!», sorrise lui, «Oggi rientrerete senza problemi». Se lo diceva lui, sorridendo pure tra l’altro.

Ci parlò poi della sua passione per la fotografia, e ci mostrò numerosi suoi album. Tra le tante istantanee, questa è quella che raffigura la vista dall’albergo – in a sunny day:

Salutammo Claus nel primo pomeriggio, nel tentativo di raggiungere il nord prima che facesse buio. Dopo ore interminabili di macchina – almeno 6, stanchi e a pezzi entrammo trionfanti nel paese di Sauðarkrókur. Le temperature erano già calate, e io già dal mattino del giorno 6 stavo girando con ben due paia di pantaloni e tre maglie. Calata la notte, a Sauðarkrókur la situazione sembrava persino peggiorata. Vagammo un po’ per il paese, in cerca del giusto posto dove dormire; lo trovammo in un’area camping chiusa, provammo a ripararci dietro un gabbiotto di legno, e ci infilammo nei sacchi a pelo, dopo pure un paio di bicchieri di sana vodka per aumentarci di gradazione.

Ma quella notte il termometro parlava di almeno -3, l’ultima volta che lo avevamo controllato. Nonostante mummificati tra lana e coperte varie, il freddo ci svegliava ogni 3 ore. Per trovare fonti di calore, accendemmo la macchina e facemmo un giro per il paese per farla riscaldare, ancora intubati nel sacco a pelo. Dormire sotto lo zero stava diventando un’impresa, mentre scacciavo via prepotente le immagini di un bus in Alaska con dentro il corpo senza vita di Christopher McCandless. “Mo che torno chiamo Sean Penn”, mi dissi, “ma prima devo fare in modo di tornare”.

Day_6:

A circa mezz’ora da Sauðarkrókur si trova la località di Reykir, zona che abbiamo preferito raggiungere per goderci il famoso mito degli hotpot, quelle buche disseminate in tutta l’Islanda dove sgorga acqua calda, più o meno accessibili a tutti e più o meno in maniera gratuita. A Reykir se ne trova uno in uno spazio però privato. Giunti al cancello di una sorta di punto di ristoro, notammo da lontano che non vi era nessuno in giro, e che il luogo era chiuso. Ci venne incontro però una coppia americana che ci lasciò intendere che potevamo senza alcun problema aprire il cancello e usufruire degli spazi, comodi come fosse casa nostra.

Non ci fu bisogno di insistere, e nel giro di un quarto d’ora eravamo già pronti a sguazzare nell’hotpot, e nella desolazione del luogo ci sentimmo selvaggi abbastanza da concederci a Madre Natura così come ella stessa c’aveva generati, mentre miravamo le alture a noi molto prossime completamente innevate, e le temperature continuavano a tenersi un po’ sotto lo zero.

Tutto intorno all’area pullulava di cavalli e pecore islandesi, due tipi di animali particolarmente diffusi – rumors dicono che sull’isola tipo ci siano più pecore che persone – razze di cui il paese va particolarmente fiero per la loro purezza, preservata dall’assenza di contatti con altre razze dello stesso animale.

Da Reykir dunque prendemmo rotta Akureyri, inclusa nella seconda area urbana più grande dell’isola – dopo quella di Reykjavik – a circa 50 km dal Circolo Polare Artico (sic!). Il tragitto da Reykir e Akureyri consente anche la possibilità di fare sosta in alcuni punti lungo la strada per ammirare le foche; nella stessa area, proseguendo un po’ più verso nord, è anche possibile fare whale-whatching.

I nostri chilometri continuavano ad essere macinati senza tregua, spompando i pistoni della nostra Kangoo senza alcuna pietà. Il meteo teneva, ma da un cielo grigio si passò poi presto a leggere precipitazioni, poi a un candido nevischio, che ci fece pure fare una breve gioiosa sosta, poi diminuendo le distanze dalla nostra destinazione arrivò pure Eolo, e insomma prima di giungere alla meta nel giro di un’ora la strada era praticamente diventata così:

Akureyri imbiancata divenne insomma solo un posto di passaggio, e le sue condizioni ci fecero ovviamente desistere a rimanere in macchina per quella notte. Trovammo una comoda guesthouse più o meno nel centro della città, dove ci godemmo una luuunga doccia, per non parlare del comodissimo materasso, una sensazione che avevamo quasi dimenticato.


Day_7: Da Akureyri il tragitto è in sostanza d’obbligo verso una sorta di baricentro dell’isola, la zona del Lago Myvatn. Prima dell’Islanda, i miei viaggi non mi avevano portato particolarmente lontano, ma di certo l’area geografica che m’aveva più affascinato era stata quella dei dintorni di Göreme e della Cappadocia tutta; il problema è che la visione del Lago Myvatn mi fece subitaneamente cambiare idea.


Un cielo d’un plumbeo da The Day After Tomorrow, o metaforicamente da Apocalypse Now, ma di certo che lasciava confondere i propri confini con i colori poco caleidoscopici che dominavano in terra, tra il bianco della neve e il nero della fresca lava solidificata. Di certo, con cielo terso e la neve – tersa per riflesso – intenta a coprire ogni forma di colore ovunque, la sensazione più che altro è quella di sentirti uno sbiadito divo del cinema americano che percorre scenari in bianco e nero da Viale del Tramonto – terrestre – ormai andato.

Ma procediamo con ordine: dalla cittadina di Akureyri ci separavano appena 45 minuti di macchina da una prima sosta forzatamente necessaria, l’area che ospitava le famose cascate di Goðafoss.


Già dal nome, per chi avesse un minimo di dimestichezza con il filologico Antico Alto Tedesco, si intuisce che col -foss spiegato giorni più su, e il Goð- che lo precede, sarebbe quasi elementare racchiudere l’etimologia nella parafrasi “Cascate degli dei”. Leggenda narra che in realtà per gli antichi abitanti dell’Islanda, si vedesse nei tre getti principali la rappresentazione delle tre divinità nordiche, Odino, Thor e Freyr. Non paghi, gli islandesi narrano inoltre che tra il 999 e il 1000, tale Lögsögumaður Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði fece del Cattolicesimo la religione ufficiale d’Islanda, e dopo questa conversione, di ritorno da AlÞingi – Þorgeirr (l’antico Parlamento islandese, il più antico d’Europa) gettò le sue statue delle divinità nordiche nella cascata.

Un ludico scherzo di terra e giungemmo nell’affascinante area del Lago Myvatn. Ciò che rende l’area in qualche modo speciale, è la sua formazione sulla famosa “Y” capovolta che determina la spina dorsale vulcanica del paese, con un’attività di recente principio che lascia intendere la sua natura in divenire. Il lago infatti giace sulla faglia che divide niente-di-meno-che le placche continentali di Europa e America, la cosiddetta “Dorsale Medio Atlantica”, che da questa regione attraversa tutta l’isola per poi continuare sul fondo dell’oceano per tutto l’Atlantico. Questa è in perenne attività, e allontana l’Europa dall’America al ritmo di dieci / venti millimetri l’anno. Altra caratteristica speciale dell’area è che le eruzioni che ivi v’avvengono entrano in contatto con le acque del lago, generando contesti naturali spiccatamente unici ed originali: nei dintorni di Skútustaðir, infatti, non sono rari paesaggi come questi:

nel caso specifico i famosi “castelli neri”, strutture alte anche decine di metri dal proverbiale colore nero lavico, così generate dal contatto della lava incandescente con le acque del lago. Un’attività, nella regione, particolarmente frequente: dal 1975 al 1984 ci sono state, ad esempio, ben nove eruzioni.

Da Skútustaðir ci siamo poi diretti verso nord costeggiando il lago, giungendo nel caratteristico boschetto di Höfði, un’area che è in realtà una riserva privata, che dà comunque parziale accesso al pubblico, consentendoti di passeggiare tra un mare di betulle, che sembrano a tratti coprirti, proteggerti e riscaldarti, in una sensazione piuttosto rara, da queste parti.

Una sorta di selva oscura nel mezzo del cammin in cui sprofondammo volentieri, un perdersi tra i sentieri esaltato dall’atmosfera ovattata gentilmente offerta dalla purezza della neve, e dal perenne grigiume del cielo nel quale il sole sembrava eternamente intrappolato e non riusciva a far trapassare i propri raggi, e dove persino i passi dei nostri scarponi da trekking facevano fatica a far sentire la neve maltrattata sotto di loro. Un piccolo trip intimistico e introspettivo, che decidemmo di fare in maniera separata.

Prima che giungesse sera raggiungemmo poco più avanti l’area di Hverfell, un piccolo promontorio che ospita uno dei tanti pseudo-crateri della zona intorno a Myvatn, e dalla cui cima si aveva una chiara idea del paesaggio che ci circondava:

L’impressione era spaventevole: sembrava davvero che la pellicola del mondo fosse datata agli anni ’20, dall’assenza totale di suoni e dall’impossibilità di riprodurre colori; eravamo dentro un film muto versione 3D, con spettrali fumi che si levavano in lontananza e una vista a perdita d’occhio verso un orizzonte che non esisteva. Uno spettacolo inquietante e surreale, memorabile e dramatic, come senz’altro avrebbe detto la nostra guida in inglese.

Si fece mesto buio, e per la seconda notte decidemmo di non dormire in macchina; le temperature da quelle parti continuavano a non consentirlo, e trovammo riparo in un prefabbricato a pochi passi dal lago, condiviso con un gruppo di ragazzi coreani. L’area in linea di massima è piuttosto cara, in quanto ad accomodation e servizi turistici in generale; negli ultimi anni ha subito una forte trasformazione tale da renderla una meta piuttosto frequentata.

Day_8: L’alba del giorno 8 aveva gli stessi colori del pomeriggio del giorno 7. Ma pure quelli dell’imbrunire o del mezzogiorno del giorno 7. L’atmosfera era sostanzialmente la stessa, e l’impressione era quella di cataclisma imminente. L’area del lago Myvatn era ancora ricca di sorprese, e se è vero che quella terra che percorrevamo era così sostanzialmente appena emersa, primitiva, era come avere la possibilità di vedere cosa fa e cosa aveva fatto la Terra tutta al suo principio. Dominava una rabbia intrinseca, nei pressi del Myvatn, una sorta di furia feroce e cieca di qualcosa che non si domava, il brontolio del manto terrestre vomitato fuori sotto forma di calore, magma, fango, che adesso urlava la propria incapacità a rientrare nei canoni della superficie. E nulla ne era immune.

Dopo una breve sosta alla grotta di Grjótagjá, una piccola cava lavica che ospita acqua termale, e che fino al 1975 era utilizzata come luogo di balneazione (in seguito alle eruzioni del ’75-’84 la temperatura è salita a 50°C), ci siamo poi diretti verso Hverir, l’area geotermale ai piedi della caldera Krafla. Un odore di zolfo si levava al punto che ai nostri occhi si materializzarono subito il dottor Faust, Milton e Behemont, mentre Caronte ci attendeva poco più giù con un ghigno beffardo pronto a farci scendere nei gironi infernali danteschi.

Lo scenario era mitico e surreale, con aria e fuoco che a contatto generavano potenti gettiti di vapore da un lato, a trovar sfogo tra diversi pennacchi disseminati nella zona,


dall’altro, un fango primigenio di una natura innaturale ribolliva a due passi dai nostri piedi, o sotto la superficie che calpestavamo.

Mirabile spettacolo della natura, potenza spietata dei quattro elementi, acqua, aria, terra e fuoco impegnati allo stesso tempo a lottare e ad equilibrarsi, in un moto che pareva non accennasse a trovar pace. Visioni senza precedenti, le viscere della Terra che sputavano tutto il proprio veleno, con tutta la rabbia che covava dentro; ed era affascinante comprendere che quel moto, quella furia è la stessa che aveva generato tutto, si ripeteva ché era già avvenuta in tutto il resto del pianeta. Che da quella furia era stato generato pure l’uomo, che quella furia in ultima analisi eravamo Noi.


La successiva sosta alla caldera di Krafla fu piuttosto breve, dal momento che sia il tragitto che la stessa caldera erano avvolti da uno spesso strato di nebbia, che ci inibì il tragitto e ci rese la vista quasi impossibile. Prima di abbandonare l’Islanda del nord e addentrarci nel delicato East, ci concedemmo un nuovo tuffo in piscina, questa volta al Myvatn Nature Baths, un posto che è più o meno così:

Sano relax e poi via, a cavalcare il Hringvegur fino ai fiordi dell’Est.
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_lyQ-OCIYs?rel=0&controls=0&showinfo=0&w=640&h=360]

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