A trip around an Iceland – Getting Ready

postato in: All posts, Europa, Islanda, On the Road | 858

Parte 1_Getting Ready

Grande appena un terzo dell’Italia, l’Islanda si è da sempre imposta come la meta più estrema d’Europa, capace di dare filo da torcere anche all’avventuriero più impavido.

Mondo magico e incantevole, così vicino così lontano, dominato dalle forze della natura e da leggende millenarie, l’Islanda vanta numerosi primati che ne fortificano il suo fascino unico, rendendo anche una breve visita un’esperienza indimenticabile.

Paese più giovane d’Europa, il più ecologico, e tra i set naturali più utilizzati dall’industria cinematografica, con i suoi scenari ruvidi e selvaggi, e i quattro elementi, terra, acqua, aria e fuoco, intenti a fondersi quotidianamente trasformando l’isola in una sinfonia geografica in continuo divenire.

La capitale Reykjavik ha tutta l’aria di una tipica città scandinava, ma non manca di mostrare fiera ad ogni angolo la propria identità e unicità: appena 118 mila abitanti inseriti in un mosaico di attività moderne e all’avanguardia, con un occhio alla valorizzazione delle ancestrali tradizioni e un fermento artistico – specie musicale – che non conosce eguali nel continente.

Questa piccola isola, figlia delle più recenti eruzioni sottomarine che in 20 milioni di anni hanno fatto emergere una parte del fondale oceanico, è salita alla ribalta internazionale negli ultimi anni per l’eruzione dell’Eyjafjöll, il vulcano che nel 2010 ha creato seri problemi al traffico aereo internazionale, ma anche per l’orgogliosa reazione della popolazione islandese a seguito della crisi economica, con il rifiuto di pagare i debiti causati dalle banche e costringendo il governo a investire nel turismo.

E difatti è proprio il turismo l’attuale tendenza economica locale, pronta a trascinare l’Islanda in una nuova era, forte anche del calo del costo della corona islandese che favorirebbe il flusso del turismo di massa: oggi, infatti, visitare l’isola può rivelarsi un’esperienza comoda, economica e sicura, nel pieno rispetto della natura – e del suo fascino estremo, con l’ausilio di infrastrutture e tecnologie che rendono anche i percorsi più impervi accessibili a tutti.

Il nostro viaggio è cominciato da Reykjavik, e in 12 giorni abbiamo compiuto il giro dell’isola procedendo inizialmente verso nord. La scelta tra nord e sud è stata decretata da un classico lancio di monetina: il Hringvegur, la “strada Anello” che percorre l’isola in maniera circolare, non lascia molto spazio alla fantasia, e in sostanza il gir-in-tondo è pari, che tu scelga l’una o l’altra direzione.

In due, impavidi desiderosi di sprofondare in un viaggio minimale, a riassettare la nostra scala di priorità, portando in testa bisogni umani dei più elementari. L’idea dell’Islanda nasceva da una semi-necessità di svincolarsi dai carichi virtuali della modernità, provare a vivere lontano da ciò che sembravamo inesorabilmente diventare, ritrovare valori primordiali che cominciavano ad apparire sempre più distanti, sbiaditi, indefiniti.

Un viaggio al centro dell’antropos, insomma, passando per il centro dinamico della Terra, dove la Terra non ha ancora trovato identità, ma si ritrova piuttosto intenta ad impiegare tutte le sue energie nel tentativo eterno di mutar pelle, prima che giunga al punto di assestarsi nel suo imposto silenzio, definita, come han fatto le nature di tutto il resto del pianeta. È una terra testarda, quella d’Islanda, al pari di un adolescente incantato dalla sua impietosa rabbia, in cerca di una sua dimensione, senza conoscerne alcuna.

Stavamo per affrontare un viaggio su di un manto agitato da vento primigenio, e il guaio era che non ce ne stavamo nemmeno rendendo conto pienamente. Abbiamo noleggiato un’auto presso l’Happy Campers (www.happycampers.is): una Renault Kangoo a trazione integrale pronta a sballottare sui percorsi accidentali dell’isola, una 4×4 munita di ruote chiodate pronte a frantumare cristalli di ghiaccio da carreggiata e garantirci la giusta aderenza al nostro andare. Due aspetti che in ultima analisi sono risultati sacrosantissimi, come si vedrà in seguito, una sorta di ‘unica e costante certezza’ in un viaggio particolarmente ricco di insidie.

La vettura era in effetti una sorta di prototipo modificato proprio per un viaggio simile: nella parte posteriore si avviluppava su se stesso un truciolato di pochi centimetri di spessore, destinato a sormontare i sedili posteriori ribaltati e a garantirci un giaciglio per la notte, stipati come filoni di pane appena inseriti in un forno elettrico, con il naso che quasi sfiorava il tettuccio della vettura. In più, l’equipaggiamento del nostro pseudo-camper prevedeva pentolame e stoviglie vario, due caldi sacchi a pelo e un paio di piccole bombole con annesso fornellino per i nostri sani pasti a fuoco lento e cotture a induzione verticale forzata. Non mancava infine una bella ruota di scorta, per l’occasione piazzata direttamente sul cofano motore a intralciare la nostra vista da piloti impavidi.

Per quanto riguarda il giro dell’isola in sé, non avevamo programmi chiarissimi: avevamo letto qua e là informazioni, segnato i nostri must-sees, ma ci tenevamo particolarmente a lasciare il grosso alla nostra improvvisazione. L’intenzione, come accennato prima, era quella di ridurre all’osso l’utilizzo della tecnologia.
Avevamo preso solo delle semplicissime precauzioni, seguendo d’istinto la capacità organizzativa di un paese come l’Islanda:è possibile infatti scaricare un’app decisamente utile, la “112 Iceland” o “SOS Iceland App”, grazie alla quale è possibile segnalare la propria posizione alle autorità islandesi mentre si è in viaggio. La segnalazione può essere effettuata ben cinque volte, in modo da facilitare i soccorsi in caso di emergenza – dal momento che, come si leggerà in seguito, nel giro dell’isola va messo in conto ore ed ore di guida in cui si dimenticano forme di vita o forme di abitazioni abitate. La stessa app prevede anche un tasto rosso d’emergenza, che farà scattare gli eventuali soccorsi.

Non per altro, ma tanti son stati i racconti, che da queste parti son quasi narrati con una insolita ironia, di ritrovamenti di auto abbandonate in giro per l’isola, magari ai limiti di scogliere ma senza più traccia dei passeggeri, di auto fittate e finite arenate in corsi d’acqua selvaggi, dirupi inghiottitutto e tante storielle simpatiche simili, che a pochi giorni dalla partenza era tutta H2Ansia gettata cinicamente sul fuoco. Poco sconforto, comunque, noi eravamo ad ogni modo prontissimi.

Ultima ma non ultima informazione utile prima di mettersi in viaggio in Islanda è la consultazione (costante!) del sito www.vegagerdin.is: il modo migliore per conoscere gli aggiornamenti delle condizioni stradali e del meteo islandese. Da queste parti è infatti prassi più che quotidiana svoltare una curva col sole, e completarla con una raffica di vento a venti nodi; o con una tempesta di neve; o con una tempesta e basta; o con spot di ghiaccio sulla carreggiata. Non è manco così raro che a un certo punto possano chiudere una strada per impraticabilità; e non è manco poi così infrequente percorrere una strada, esserci dentro, e a un certo punto accorgersi che è stata chiusa, o prima o dopo di te. Insomma, certe cose in Islanda sono fin troppo repentine e imprevedibili, tant’è che il governo stesso ha creato il sito di cui sopra, dove viene meticolosamente tracciata la condizione di tutte – e dico, tutte! – le strade dell’isola, con una mappa molto intuitiva da leggere e comprendere; un ottimo modo per prendere una direzione piuttosto che un’altra. Di sotto una foto di una porzione di mappa, per farsi un’idea:

Allo stesso modo, si può contattare il numero 1777 (Road Condition Information) o il numero 1778 (Road Condition & Weather – Answering Machine) per avere informazioni telefoniche sui percorsi che si hanno intenzione di intraprendere, o che si stanno percorrendo.

E lo so, lo so, mi rendo conto di essermi dilungato non poco su informazioni più che tecniche, ma le ho ritenute più che necessarie per chiunque voglia affrontare un viaggio simile. L’app dell’SOS, per dirne una, non abbiamo mai avuto modo di utilizzarla, ce ne siamo quasi dimenticati durante il viaggio, ma è anche confortante sapere che in caso di necessità i soccorsi sono fulminei, è una sensazione rassicurante, specie se ti ritrovi in giro per un’isola di 102.819 km² e una densità di popolazione di 3,09 ab/km². Tutto qui.

Le mappe, invece, sono risultate più che utili, quasi quotidianamente: ci hanno permesso di garantirci la nostra improvvisazione, senza incorrere in brutte sorprese, ma anzi riuscendo a gestire i tempi e le tappe nel migliore dei modi, mantenendo costante la piacevolezza di un viaggio all’avventura. Il tutto soprattutto perché le informazioni sono affidabili(ssimissimi)ssime. La sicurezza, in una “Iceland” abituata al suo moto perpetuo, è priorità più che assoluta. E uno dei suoi fascini più immediati e sublimi è proprio l’idea che in Islanda è l’uomo che corre (ancora) dietro la natura, e la natura non si lascia (ancora) brutalizzare dall’uomo.
Bando alle ciance, noi nel frattempo siamo pronti. Macchina caricata e via, fuori Reykjavik, verso la penisola di Snæfellsness. You better hit the road!

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2pYP9IuNXY?rel=0&showinfo=0]

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