10 Mar 2015

Cultural Cairo

di | postato in: All posts, Egitto, Medio oriente, Mondo | 334

Passeggiamo ancora per le strade del Cairo e ancora per Wust el-Balad, centro di una città che più volte abbiamo raccontato in gran fermento.

Negli ultimi cinque anni, il contesto artistico egiziano ha subito una netta evoluzione: una spinta dinamica. Si è andata delineando una generazione di artisti, che attraverso i nuovi mezzi di espressione, porta avanti un tipo di arte indipendente e sperimentale. Questo nuovo movimento è presente sia nelle arti figurative, che nel teatro e nella danza, non meno nella musica e nel cinema. Vi proponiamo, dopo i consigli delle nostre egiziane esperte Lucia e Teresa, una passeggiata tra i maggiori centri di cultura e arte nel centro della capitale.

Bookstore

tour-cultura-cairo (1)Lehnert&Landrock (44, Sherif Street, Wust el-Balad) – la libreria racconta il fascino del Medio-Oriente ottocentesco.
Nel pieno del secolo romantico, le terre lontane e misteriose d’Egitto erano luoghi dove tutti i sogni potevano finalmente essere realizzati, luoghi d’avventura ed immagini costruite a volte ad uso ed abuso degli occidentali, ma il pericolo di cadere nel colonialismo e nel razzismo più strisciante era sempre in agguato. Lehnert e Landrock però erano scrittori, viaggiatori e fotografi che viaggiarono in tutto il Nord Africa nei primi anni del 20° secolo. I loro primi lavori erano dedicati ai beduini della Tunisia, in seguito poi si si concentrarono sui paesaggi egiziani e la città del Cairo. Qui inaugurarono la loro prima libreria nel 1924 e poi successivamente, si trasferirono nell’attuale sede nel 1936. Oggi la libreria ha libri in diverse lingue, mappe della città e dell’intero Egitto, ma nel retro del negozio sono conservate vecchie macchine fotografiche, gli attrezzi per lo sviluppo e centinaia di stampe, riproduzioni delle magnifiche foto dei suoi fondatori.

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Diwan (26 July Street, Zamalek) – moderna, luminosa e soprattutto innovativa. Non ci sono storie romantiche da raccontare, ma c’è da dire che Diwan è stata la prima libreria a portare un nuovo concetto di bookstore nella capitale: non solo luogo dove acquistare libri, ma uno spazio da vivere sia con gli eventi di presentazione dei libri, ma anche tutti i giorni grazie al cafè al suo interno. Visitare la libreria Diwan è vivamente consigliato; informatevi sugli eventi, programmate di passare qualche ora lì e godetevi un pomeriggio di cultura, tra libri, musica e fotografia.

Teatro

tour-cultura-cairo (3)Townhouse (10 Nabrawy street, Wust el-Bald) – In una via poco trafficata di Wust el-Balad, alle spalle di Sharia Champollion, strada di meccanici e caffé, si trova il Townhouse: forse la migliore galleria del Cairo. Il canadese William Wells l’ha fondata nel 1998 in un’area popolare con l’intento di avere un effetto dinamico sull’intero quartiere, creando un luogo dove sia possibile esprimersi liberamente dando spazio alle nuove arti sperimentali e indipendenti,  e creando dinamiche per lo scambio e la circolazione d’idee.

In questo contesto nasce lo spazio Rawabet, un palcoscenico teatrale, adiacente alla galleria, fondato da un gruppo di artisti indipendenti per un pubblico interessato alle arti performative contemporanee alternative, tra cui teatro, musica e cinema. Il suo nome ‘Rawabet’, in arabo ‘link’, esprime il suo obiettivo prioritario: offrire uno spazio dove si creino connessioni costanti tra gli artisti e tra gli artisti e il pubblico.

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Cafè

Café Riche (Talaat Harb Street, Wust-el Balad) – Ancora il centro della città, ma questa volta un luogo dove fermarsi a mangiare o bere. Il Café Riche, aperto nel 1908, con le sue vetrate esterne tappezzate di vecchie cartoline in bianco e nero è testimone della metamorfosi della società egiziana. Qui, nel 1919 gli attivisti del Wafd, guidati da Saad Zaghloul, prepararono un attentato contro il primo ministro egiziano filo-inglese, e sempre qui, nel 1952, Nasser si sedeva a discutere di politica. Il tempo nel Café Riche è fermo alla prima metà del ‘900: sedie e tavoli in legno, foto in bianco e nero di intellettuali e attori habitué, niente aria condizionata, in sottofondo Abd El Wahab Hafez, Mohammed Abdel Halim e Umm Kalthum.

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Fu il proprietario greco Mikhail Nicolapolitis, a rendere il Café Riche famoso, offrendo birra e musica dal vivo, diventando così punto di incontro per avvocati, banchieri e agenti di borsa che parlavano di economia e facevano affari, oltre che per aristocratici egiziani e stranieri ebrei, armeni, greci e italiani. Scrittori e cantanti scelsero questo spazio per esibirsi, due esempi? Il premio Nobel Naguib Mahfouz, il venerdì animava dibattiti letterari, mentre Umm Kalthoum tenne qua la sua prima esibizione in pubblico.

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Arte

tour-cultura-cairo (7)Mashrabia Art Gallery (8, Champollion Street, Wust el-Balad) – una galleria d’arte contemporanea del Cairo, fondata a metà degli anni ’70 e che a partire dagli anni novanta è stata all’avanguardia nella diffusione delle Arti Plastiche, sia per quanto riguarda la promozione di artisti stranieri in Egitto, che di artisti egiziani in giro per il mondo. La galleria privilegia quegli artisti che utilizzano linguaggi innovativi, liberati da qualsiasi componente decorativa, ponendo attenzione all’originalità e la potenza delle opere d’arte; un punto di forza è la collaborazione con alcune gallerie private in Svizzera, Italia, Turchia, Tunisia e altri paesi.

La Mashrabia sponsorizza anche una serie di attività esterne ai suoi spazi. Un esempio è “Two single rooms” di Pascale Favre e Mahmoud Khaled: in una stanza d’albergo al Cairo i due artisti collaborano in un lavoro site-specific dove propogono una lettura personale della città, a partire dai segni lasciati nell’ambiente urbano, sia pubblico che privato. Tra i progetti futuri della galleria c’è anche l’idea di introdurre una serie di workshop di fotografia artistica.

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Musica

Makan (Saad Zaghloul Street) – Istituzione ancora oggi conosciuta come Centro Egiziano per la Cultura e l’Arte, il Makan è molto più di un semplice luogo per ascoltare musica. L’obiettivo è di offrire musica tradizionale egiziana, in maniera classica, ma anche incoraggiare la gente a partecipare al risveglio di un’arte egiziana culturalmente significativa.

Sul palco del Makan trovano posto vari strumenti: dal sassofono al arghoul egiziano (strumento a fiato), a un numero sufficiente di percussioni per poter ballare prima ancora che lo spettacolo inizi. Quando il gruppo Nass Makan (gente del Makan) sale sul palco ci si rende conto della bellezza delle tradizioni; gli stretti spazi trasmettono le vibrazioni del basso e l’interazione tra gli artisti e il pubblico offre un ambiente intimo. Dai ritmi jazz, mescolati con gli stili tradizionali egiziani e sudanesi e grazie alla sensuale e potente voce della cantante sudanese Asia, il Makan è un luogo da tutelare.

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