13 Set 2013

Giorno 8 – Macinando chilometri

di | postato in: All posts, Italia, Itinerandi Summer Tour, On the Road, Sicilia On the Road | 3.048

Ancora in auto, ripartiamo da Agrigento con 714 km già percorsi e un terzo di itinerario ancora da scoprire. Oggi è una di quelle tappe a lunga percorrenza e la destinazione finale è Noto, a 200 km dalla partenza e 4 province più in là.

Una volta smontate tutte le attrezzature da campeggio e riempita la macchina salutiamo queste terre aride e dai colori giallastri. Il percorso di oggi ci è piuttosto sconosciuto ed affidarci al navigatore è quasi spontaneo; ciò che però ci entusiasma sono i territorio in cui passeremo i prossimi quattro giorni: il cuore del barocco siciliano, il sud più sud dell’Italia, gironzolando tra le Oasi naturali che abbondano in questa zona.

Dalla partenza dobbiamo proseguire su una strada statale, in direzione sud; i campi sono ricchi di grano e fieno, il territorio di quel colore giallognolo, che ci ha accompagnato per gli ultimi due giorni, non accenna a mutare. La via è libera, poche auto, il navigatore segna un percorso diritto di fronte a noi. Sfogliamo qualche guida e proviamo a raccogliere informazioni su dove fare una sosta; a circa 70 km dalla partenza scorgiamo un vecchio castello sul lato mare.

Località Falconara, provincia di Caltanissetta, questo Castello è l’unico tra i manieri della zona ad affacciarsi sul mare. Costruito intorno al 1313 serviva da avvistamento e difesa per le incursioni dai pirati, il nucleo più antico è la torre, e proprio alle  torri di Falconara e Manfria, distanti tra loro circa 8 km, era infatti affidato il controllo del tratto di costa tra Licata e Torrenova (l’odierna Gela).

Scendendo in spiaggia si può raggiungere uno degli ingressi del castello e questo lo rende davvero suggestivo. La struttura ancora oggi è privata e viene usata sia come residenza estiva, sia come luogo per cerimonie, quindi purtroppo non è visitabile, ma un bagno sotto le sue mura lo si può fare liberamente e godere ancora una volta, dalla spiaggia, di uno spaccato di Sicilia.
Dopo uno spuntino al bar ripartiamo, sempre alla ricerca di ulteriori soste. Lo spettacolo che ci colpisce, passando per Gela, è angosciante. Una città circondata, assediata, dalle industri siderurgiche. Altissime le ciminiere si scorgono da lontano e l’odore dei prodotti chimici diventa insopportabile; inevitabilmente ci viene da pensare ai cittadini che convivono con questa situazione e agli operai che ogni mattina varcano i cancelli; inevitabilmente ci viene da pensare alla nostra fortuna di essere viaggiatori.

Programmiamo un’altra sosta dopo ulteriori 70 km, altro castello, ma questa volta più interno: il Castello di Donnafugata. Al contrario di quanto il nome possa far pensare, non si tratta di un vero e proprio castello medievale bensì di una sontuosa dimora nobiliare del tardo ‘800.

Reso celebre anche dalla serie Il Commissario Montalbano, fin dall’arrivo il castello rivela la sua sontuosità. L’edificio copre un’area di circa 2500 metri quadrati ed un’ampia facciata, coronata da due torri laterali accoglie i visitatori. La facciata principale e’ ornata da una bellissima loggia in stile gotico-veneziano, con otto balconi a sesto acuto che danno accesso alla grande terrazza sottostante la loggia, mentre delle belle bifore ingentiliscono le altre facciate. Intorno al castello si trova un ampio e monumentale parco di 8 ettari. Contava oltre 1500 specie vegetali e varie “distrazioni” che dovevano allietare e divertire gli ospiti, come il tempietto circolare, la Coffee House (per dare ristoro), alcune “grotte” artificiali dotate di finte stalattiti (sotto il tempietto) o il particolare labirinto in pietra costruito nella tipica muratura a secco del ragusano, e poi alcune vasche e disseminati parecchi vasi di Caltagirone.

Gli ultimi km che ci dividono da Noto, sembrano interminabili, ma ci accoglie un campeggio nuovo di zecca e… completamente vuoto. Siamo gli unici ospiti, effetto della crisi e dell’apertura recente, ci sistemiamo dove più ci piace, possiamo disporre di bagni, docce, tavoli e piscina come fossimo in un enorme parco privato.

La proprietaria è di una gentilezza estrema, ci organizziamo per la colazione, che il campeggio offre con un piccolo supplemento, e ci facciamo consigliare cosa fare in serata. Ci conserviamo la visita a Noto per un altro giorno e fidandoci, inizialmente, del campanilismo della nostra consigliera evitiamo Avola, Pachino e Marzamemi, optando per Lido di Noto.

La scelta non è delle migliori, Lido di Noto è poco più di una strada con bancarelle e qualche turista che passeggia. Ceniamo da un paninaro che prepara piatti tipici e ci godiamo la serata rilassante dopo una giornata di continuo vagare.

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