Spalato, la Torcida e l’Hajduk

postato in: All posts, Balkans trip, Europa | 280

Pochi giorni fa si è giocata la partitissima Partizan Belgrado – Stella Rossa, momento sacro per il calcio balcanico, catartici per un’intera società. Nei Balcani infatti il calcio è presente nella vita quotidiana, vissuto con una passione viscerale, una visione quasi spirituale di questo sport, che coinvolge indistintamente tutta la popolazione, indipendentemente da sesso ed età, creando una congestione continua con la politica e la società.
Storie molte vicine a quelle di casa nostra, con il fenomeno del tifo organizzato che ha attecchito nella ex Jugoslavia con intensità sorprendente: i giovani sembravano aver trovato sin dagli inizi nel movimento ultrà lo strumento d’aggregazione e d’espressione che da sempre contribuisce a farli sentire parte dell’Occidente.

Il primo gruppo organizzato di tifosi nato nei Balcani non vide la luce tra le strade di Belgrado, ma nella vicina Croazia. Il 28 Ottobre del 1950, al 17 di Zrinsko Frankopanska, a Zagabria,  113 studenti fondarono la Torcida dell’Hajduk di Spalato, nome che deriva dal tifo brasiliano.

La nascita del gruppo avvenne un giorno prima del match contro la Stella Rossa di Belgrado, quando la Jugoslavia era ancora una commistione di popoli e lingue. Quello fu l’anno memorabilis per l‘Hajduk che vinse la partita per 2-1, e continuò la stagione senza nemmeno una sconfitta, un record mai più eguagliato.
Passeggiando per la città e guardandosi intorno, si vedono scuole, palazzi e persino chiese, ricoperte dal murales che raffigura lo scudetto dell’ Hajduk, il simbolo della Torcida, e lo slogan “L’Hajduk vivrà per sempre”.

La rivalità con la Dinamo Zagabria è uno degli argomenti preferiti dagli ultrà, ma prima di questo, il mondiale “Francia 98” fa luccicare gli occhi a tutti i tifosi: quella nazionale croata che stupì il mondo. I tifosi spalatini sottolineano con foga che cinque giocatori di quella nazionale erano di scuola Hajduk, poi, sorseggiando una birra Karlovacko, il discorso torna di nuovo sulla Torcida, che a Spalato svolge anche funzioni sociali, con sedi dormitorio.

Far parte della Torcida fa curriculum, perché a Spalato è sintomo d’onore, ed è per alcuni l’ unico vero punto di riferimento affettivo.

Il Poljud Stadion, la casa dell’Hajduk, fu costruito nel 1979 in occasione dei giochi del Mediterraneo e alla fine di una decade d’oro per l’Hajduk Spalato, con una serie di grandi successi. Si trova in una splendida posizione, regalando una vista sul mare e sul tramonto ai tifosi sugli spalti. I giochi segnarono anche una svolta negativa per la squadra, nella prima della partita, Hajduk – Tottenham, i tifosi in curva, uccisero un gallo, simbolo del club londinese. Questo obbligò la UEFA a interdire il campo dell’Hajduk per tutte le partite internazionali. Subito dopo la partita fra Hajduk e Olympique Marsiglia venne sospesa per l’esplosione di un ordigno lacrimogeno sugli spalti e la squadra croata venne interdetta dalle coppe europee per due anni.

Gli anni ‘90 furono segnati dalle guerre fratricide che devastarono queste terre. Il conflitto oltre che sui campi di battaglia arrivò anche su quelli da gioco. I nazionalisti serbi reclutarono fra gli ultrà parecchi militanti, creando alcune tra le più terribili unità para-militari. In Croazia successe lo stesso con i tifosi supportati dalla HDZ (Unione democratica croata); sia a Zagabria che a Spalato comparirono insegne del terzo Reich

Spalato-hajduk-calcio (8)

Se girate per la città difficilmente vi riuscirà di fotografare i tifosi, essere fotografati infatti la considerano una violazione della propria identità di ultrà. Intanto la tradizione della Torcida, il primo gruppo organizzato di tifosi d’ Europa, e la loro passione per l’ Hajduk Spalato, vincitrice di 15 campionati (8 jugoslavi e 7 croati), e e 19 trofei nazionali (9 coppe di Jugoslavia, 5 coppe di Croazia, 5 supercoppe di Croazia) continua negli anni, nonostante i cambiamenti avvenuti dalla sua fondazione ad oggi. Mentre la Jugoslavia si è smembrata “L’Hajduk vivrà per sempre”.

Spalato-hajduk-calcio (7)

Spalato-hajduk-calcio (4)

Spalato-hajduk-calcio (2)

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