Scoprire Siviglia, la porta dell’Andalusia

Il filo rosso della tradizione di Siviglia

Azulejo è una parola che deriva dall’arabo e significa pietra lucidata. Le Azulejo colorano l’intera Andalusia e sono le tipiche mattonelle prodotte in gran quantità qui a Siviglia, con decorazioni varie e colori accesi. Successori degli alicatados arabi sono diventati l’emblema dell’Andalusia che le usa per decorare ogni angolo di strada e gli interni dei tipici patio.

Catturano lo sguardo, e la fotocamera inevitabilmente scatta ad ogni portone socchiuso, dove la luce del sole scompare per lasciare spazio ai riflessi colorati e alle composizioni geometriche. Ma non si tratta solo di decorare, gli azulejo mantengono gli ambienti freschi in estate isolando il caldo torrido che entra dall’esterno e nell’applicazione di queste tecniche gli arabi erano maestri.

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Altro utilizzo che se ne fa è quello religioso. Veniamo dal sud Italia e siamo abituati a ritrovarci piccole edicole votive in ogni dove, ma in Andalusia la devozione è qualcosa di costante nella vita di tutti i giorni. Non stiamo parlando di altarini, ma di vere e proprie composizioni fatte con le mattonelle colorate. Colori forti, volti sofferenti e soprattutto gli abiti ricchi e sfarzosi della tradizione.

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La tradizione nelle larghe vie di Siviglia si respira costantemente e un posto fisso ce l’ha la corrida, simbolo indiscusso del folklore spagnolo. Senza voler esprimere pareri sull’evento in se, abbiamo deciso di visitare l’arena, la Plaza de Toros, cuore di questo momento, che racchiude, dal 1759, con una sacralità tutta sua, i cimeli storici della città. I grandi poster che annunciavano l’evento, le divise dei toreri storici, le banderillas, gli articoli di giornale, tutto riporta allo sfarzo di quando la corrida era un momento unico nella vita della città. Alla fine però non può mancare l’arena stessa, un’enorme ovale di sabbia gialla che brilla sotto il sole di agosto, le gradinate che scendono fin sul terreno e ti immagini subito le dodici mila persone che urlano ad ogni incornata.

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siviglia-cosa-vedere (14)La sera ci siamo spostati nel barrio di Triana. Il leggendario quartiere costeggia il fiume Guadalquivir con le case colorate ed è qui che si nasconde l’anima flamenca di Siviglia. Il nome del quartiere risale addirittura all’epoca romana, infatti qui Traiano fondò una nuova colonia e qui nacquero, secondo la tradizione, le due sante patrone della città; la zona inoltre è conosciuta storicamente come il quartiere de gitanos e come la culla del flamenco.

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Il quartiere da sempre popolare e operoso ospitava nel passato numerose fabbriche di azulejos, e oggi passeggiando tra i diversi vicoli si trovano ancora una decina di laboratori dove è possibile acquistarne. Arrivando nel quartiere dal ponte de Isabel II si possono visitare numerose Capille dall’anima molto più popolare rispetto a quelle che si incontrano nel centro della città. Due esempi sono la Capilla del Carmen e il Castillo de San Jorge sede dell’inquisizione spagnola, ma anche la Capilla del Rocio e la Capilla de Santa Ana.

Siamo venuti qui soprattutto per il flamenco, ma il quartiere si anima solo a tarda notte, quindi ci fermiamo in uno dei ristorantini lungo il fiume. Gli scorci sul centro storico sono fantastici, si sta anche bene seduti all’aperto grazie al fresco che offre il fiume oltre al fatto che si possono assaggiare numerosi piatti di pesce a buon prezzo.

siviglia-cosa-vedere (22)Quando il sole è ormai tramontato ci spostiamo per trovare un po’ di musica, passeggiando su Calle Betis, lungo la sponda del fiume, decidiamo di infilarci in uno dei vicoletti e dopo aver girato arriviamo per caso a La Taberna, l’indirizzo dovrebbe essere Calle Duarte. Entrando tutto profuma di Andalusia, le azulejos che ricoprono le pareti, i quadri che richiamano la forte fede spagnola, i tavoli pieni di piatti di tapas e bocadillos, e la musica, quella che non può mancare, suonata, cantata e soprattutto ballata. Il proprietario della Taberna impugna la chitarra e invita a ballare, dai primi tavoli gli ospiti, spagnoli per lo più, si alzano e ballano il flamenco dolce e delicato, l’ambiente si scalda e insieme alle birre a tavola arriva jamon iberico. È questa l’atmosfera che cercavamo. Vi sconsiglio di andare da Casa Anselma, consigliato da guide e da ristoranti, quindi pieno solo di stranieri, dove la musica non inizia se non siete tutti con una consumazione in mano, davvero poco spontaneo.

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Ultima tappa della Siviglia popolare è la chiesa della Macarena, nel quartiere omonimo. Il nome viene proprio dalla Virgen de la Macarena, uno dei simboli di Siviglia. Qui la confraternita della Macarena effettua il lungo cammino di penitenza nella notte tra il Giovedì e il Venerdì Santo trasformando il quartiere in uno uno dei punti nevralgici della grande festa della Semana Santa. La passeggiata iniziatela propria dalle mura della Basilica della Macarena, con i colori bianchi e gialli tipici delle chiese messicane con all’interno la statua della Madonna impreziosita da quattro spille di diamanti.

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Il cuore storico di Siviglia

La Catedral nel cuore di Siviglia è imponente, basti pensare che è terza al mondo per dimensioni dopo quella di San Pietro e quella di St. Paul a Londra. siviglia-cosa-vedere (19)All’esterno tutto è esaltato dallo stile gotico, con il colore ambra, le guglie che svettano verso il cielo, i decori che sembrano merletti. La piazza dove si trova l’ingresso è piena di carretti con le ruote colorate di giallo, in un angolo due ballerine improvvisate di flamenco attirano la gente che passeggia.

Entrare è un’esperienza, le volte e i soffitti alti decine di metri lasciano a bocca aperta. Si susseguono le decorazioni, sempre più delicate e fitte. Le statue sono imponenti, dalle finestre con i vetri colorati traspare una luce che accende i colori, il vociare della gente risuona quasi come musica.

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Da non perdere è la salita alla Giralda, l’alta torre campanaria, nata come minareto. Si, perchè dove oggi sorge la cattedrale un tempo c’era la moschea almohade inaugurata nel 1182 e lo si capisce anche dal magnifico aranceto che si trova sul retro della chiesa, un tempo porta di ingresso del tempio islamico.

In cima alla torre originariamente c’era una sfera di rame. I cristiani sostituirono la sfera con una croce e una campana. Successivamente quando la torre fu convertita da minareto in torre campanaria In cima si pose una statua rappresentante la fede.siviglia-cosa-vedere (33)Intorno alla cattedrale si sviluppa il Barrio di Santa Cruz. Decine di vicoletti colorati che sbucano nelle piazze più caratteristiche della città. Le azulejo decorano i muri e le panchine, cortili ricchi di verde si intravedono dai cancelli, mentre piccole locande servono tapas, sangri e succo di naraja. Plaza de Dona Elvira è la più romantica e confina con la Juderia, l’antico quartiere ebraico; anche qui strade strette, ma più silenzio e meno decorazioni. Un cancello all’ingresso e uno all’uscita, che in passato venivano chiusi e isolavano completamente il quartiere.

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Dall’altro lato della strada, la magnifica opera dei re andalusi: l’Alcazar. Le immagini possono raccontare meglio di tutto la bellezza di questo palazzo: le sale ricche di decorazioni, le vasche piene d’acqua, la luce che riflette le ceramiche e i colori, giallo, azzurro, verde, tipici di questa terra. L’eredità dei re arabi che hanno dominato nel passato questa terra è tutta in queste opere imponenti durate nel tempo e rispettate da qualunque popolazione abbia governato successivamente.

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La Siviglia moderna

La Siviglia moderna la si scopre invece lungo Calle Sierpes, la strada pedonale lungo la quale si respira tutta l’aria andalusa. Scuole di flamenco, ristoranti, negozi di ogni genere, la strada si riempie soprattutto nel pomeriggio, quando scende la temperatura e per questo vengono stesi sui palazzi dei teli per riparare chi passeggia dal sole.

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Poco lontano si trova il Metropol Parasol, una struttura in legno dall’aspetto avveniristico che si trova nella plaza de la Encarnación di Siviglia. È un progetto dell’architetto tedesco Jürgen Mayer-Hermann, il piano seminterrato della struttura è un museo che contiene i resti del quartiere romano risalenti al 30 d. C. e di una casa risalente al periodo arabo degli almohavidi (XII-XIII secolo). Al pianterreno si trova uno spazio attrezzato per ospitare eventi di vario tipo. Ai piani superiori si trova il mercato della Encarnación e altre attività commerciali. L’ultimo livello della struttura, a cui si può accedere grazie a degli ascensori, ospita un percorso panoramico che percorre l’intera struttura e offre una vista panoramica sulla città. Inoltre qui si trova una piazza per degli eventi  e un ristorante.

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Ultima tappa, Plaza de Espana. All’interno del parco di Maria Luisa, fu costruita nel 1929 in occasione dell’esposizione ibero – americana. La piazza è sicuramente la piazza più suggestiva ed imponente di Siviglia, in realtà quest’area sembra un incrocio tra un palazzo reale ed una piccola Venezia. Larga 200 metri, ha la forma di un ferro di cavallo rivolto verso il fiume Guadalquivir a simboleggiare l’abbraccio della Spagna alle sue colonie americane; è circondata da un palazzo con due grandi torri alle estremità, al centro una grande fontana e tutta la piazza è percorsa da un canale navigabile sormontato da 4 ponti che rappresentano gli antichi quattro regni di Spagna. Mosaici, mappe e stemmi adornano le pareti dell’edificio principale caratterizzato da 48 archi che fanno riferimento alle 48 province spagnole. Per la sua posizione è diventata simbolo della città e soprattutto luogo dove i sivigliano vanno a passare il pomeriggio: la frescura che arriva dal parco e le barchette che si possono noleggiare per navigare sul canale che circonda la piazza, rendono tutto molto piacevole.

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La visita di Siviglia non può che finire con un luogo tanto insolito quanto simbolico. Alameda de Hercules, una piazza poco lontana dal centro città, piena di piccoli bar e chioschi è una fotografia della Siviglia popolare dove fermarsi a bere un caffè o una birra.

Su un lato della piazza due enormi colonne, provenienti dall’antico tempio romano della città sono sormontate dalle statue di Ercole e Giulio Cesare. Attraversare qui le Colonne d’Ercole è quasi un atto simbolico che la città invita a fare ancora oggi, come simbolo del passato glorioso e dei mille avventurieri che sostavano qui prima di partire poi verso l’Oceano e il nuovo mondo.

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E se sei lì, pronto per attraversarle, pensando di caricare di un enorme valore simbolico questo gesto, a farti tornare alla realtà saranno come sempre un gruppo di ragazzini, che davanti a due enormi colonne non possono resistere alla tentazione di trasformarli in pali di un’enorme porta da calcio e tirare due calci ad un pallone. Siamo pur sempre in una città del Sud.

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