Incredibile attesa per la giornata di oggi, ci dirigiamo già di mattina presto verso la vicina Trapani; la meta non è la città, ma il suo porto. Da li ci imbarcheremo per visitare uno degli arcipelaghi più famosi del Mediterraneo: le isole Egadi. Avendo poco tempo la scelta cade su Favignana; dal porto di Trapani con l’aliscafo si impiegano poco più di 20 minuti ad un prezzo accessibile. All’arrivo vi accoglieranno gli operatori locali con proposte di taxi, auto private, motorini o biciclette; noi abbiamo scelto la bici, 7 € un’intera giornata, mappa dell’isola alla mano e via.
Le coste dell’isola sono interrotte da profonde cave di tufo che con enormi spaccature danno origine a diverse spiagge. La prima che abbiamo incontrato proseguendo verso est è Cala Rossa. Il nome della spiaggia deriva dal sangue versato durante l’antica battaglia combattuta lungo la costa durante le guerre puniche, tant’è che i fondali che si estendono in direzione Sud sono ricchi di reperti di immenso valore archeologico.
Proseguendo lunga la costa si raggiunge Punta Marsala, con il faro, la vicina Cala Azzurra. Se siete in bici seguite la costa e fermatevi in una delle altre calette che incontrate lungo la strada, noi abbiamo scelto Lido Burrone e davvero ne vale la pena. Tagliate poi l’isola e tornate verso il centro abitato. Passeggiando per le stradine di Favignana tutto sembra magicamente sospeso; se cercate un posto dove mangiare, ci sono diversi forni dove poter scegliere dolce o salato, tutto nel rigoroso rispetto della tradizione siciliana.
Per chi visita le Egadi però è quasi d’obbligo assaggiare qualcosa a base di tonno, infatti la storia di Favignana e delle sue isole sorelle porta inevitabilmente alla pesca di questo pesce; dopo essere state conquistate dagli arabi che le utilizzarono come scalo furono vendute nel XVII secolo prima ad una famiglia di banchieri genovesi, molto attivi in Sicilia, poi alla famiglia Florio nel 1874, che aprirono una delle tonnare più importanti della regione attiva fino al 1977.
Se perciò avete voglia di un pranzo più tranquillo, cercate il ristorante U Spiticchiu. I proprietari, sempre pronti a consigliarvi i piatti del giorno, sono di una gentilezza unica, i piatti a base di tonno sono succulenti, il locale, dall’aria spartana da un senso di accoglienza e i prezzi sono davvero modici.
Dopo pranzo se pensate di rilassarvi in spiaggia fate un giro all’Antica tonnara dei Florio, vi calerete nell’atmosfera della pesca e della lavorazione del tonno, scoprirete origine e metodi della Mattanza e non vi sorprenderà più incontrare uno dei vecchi Rais (il capo pesca) a passeggio per le strade dell’isola.
Abbiamo concluso la visita di Favignana con un’oretta di ozio sulla spiaggetta di Cala Graziosa, vicinissima al centro prima di riconsegnare le bici e imbarcarci per le coste trapanesi.
Arrivati in città abbiamo raggiunto direttamente la stazione della Funicolare, il modo più comodo per raggiungere Erice (Pzza Umberto I – 6,50 A/R); la salita è spettacolare, si osserva Trapani dall’alto e si possono scorgere il porto, le saline e altri numerosi dettagli della città, arrivare poi all’ora del tramonto garantisce uno spettacolo aggiuntivo.
Erice è da sempre un perla della Sicilia occidentale, già in epoca romana il borgo era dedito al culto di Venere e gli abitanti rivendicavano la discendenza diretta con Enea; nel medioevo assunse l’attuale aspetto di fortezza inviolabile, con mura alte e palazzi imponenti. Il Castello di Venere ne è l’esempio più lampante, anche se distrutto, le rovine vegliano sulla città e sull’intera vallata. Vale la pena fare anche una visita al Duomo e al Campanile, dalla cui cima si gode di una vista speciale.
Ma Erice è stata inserita nel nostro viaggio anche per un altro motivo, molto più profano ma non meno valido; qui tra le viuzze si trova una delle migliori pasticcerie siciliane: Maria Grammatico (www.mariagrammatico.it). L’affascinante storia della capostipite inizia quando negli anni ’50, all’età di 11 anni, fu mandata in convento ad imparare l’arte della pasticceria, uscitane quando ne aveva 22 cominciò a produrre dolci e torte per il sostentamento della famiglia.
Mustacciuoli, dolci di pasta alle mandorle, cannoli, cassatine, crostata di ricotta e pistacchio, crostata di ricotta e cioccolato, nessuna delle prelibatezze che riempiono la vetrina è stata risparmiata ed qui come in altri pochi posti abbiamo trovato un’eccezionale bontà.
Tornando in funivia a Trapani non poteva mancare la passeggiata per il centro storico; l’incredibile e fitto reticolo di viuzze, una commistione tra i vicoli arabi e le bellezze barocche. La sera è il momento ideale per una passeggiata, con le luci che disegnano le curve sui palazzi e sulle statue di Via Garibaldi e Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Se volete finire la serata al meglio andate verso il porto, troverete una serie di ristorantini dove mangiare del pesce freschissimo. A noi ci è stata consigliata la Trattoria del Porto Da Felice, la scelta è stata ottima e ottimo è stato concludere la giornata con cous cous di pesce e vino bianco.
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