Giorno 9 – I luoghi nascosti della Sicilia orientale

Ci prepariamo a quattro giorni di escursioni della zona più a sud della Sicilia, nonché più a sud d’Italia. Spettacolo barocco e bellezze naturali: Noto, Ragusa, Modica, l’Isola delle correnti, l’Oasi di Vendicari; le città e i luoghi che queste zone offrono sono numerosi.


Oggi iniziamo il nostro giro proprio dall’Oasi di Vendicari. Istituita nel 1984. È oggi una delle zone umide più rappresentative d’Europa e la sua importanza, dal punto di vista naturalistico, è internazionalmente riconosciuta. Centinaia sono le specie di uccelli che la scelgono ogni anno come luogo di sosta nel viaggio verso le zone di riproduzione. Ma la riserva non è solo questo. E’ infatti uno dei pochi luoghi in cui è ancora possibile osservare la tipica macchia mediterranea in tutto il suo splendore.

Alla riserva arriviamo in macchina e scegliamo di entrare dall’ingresso di Calamosche; ci vogliono circa 10 minuti a piedi per raggiungere la prima spiaggia: Calamosche. Naturalmente affollato il posto è il punto di partenza per diversi sentieri, noi scegliamo quello che conduce ai Pantani; la passeggiata non è faticosa, anche se il sole batte a picco sulle nostre teste, la macchia mediterranea non aiuta, ma non possiamo perdere lo spettacolo degli aironi cenerini che riposano al centro del Pantano grande o di qualche Cormorano nero posato sull’acqua con le ali aperte.

L’orario non è dei migliori per il birdwatching, infatti è consigliato farlo la mattina presto, ma le casette che riparano dal sole e permettono una buona visuale su tutta la riserva, sono efficaci anche a quest’ora. Passeggiando per circa 40 minuti raggiungiamo le antiche case dei pescatori, la torre sveva e i ruderi della tonnara, detta anche di Bafutu, ebbe origine nel corso del settecento; gli edifici sono quasi tutti ristrutturati e rendono bene l’idea della frenetica attività che si svolgeva durante le stagioni di pesca.

Al ritorno alla spiaggia di Calamosche non possiamo fare a meno di un bagno, un mare cristallino ci accoglie, stanchi e accaldati; sassi e piccoli pesci si vedono come fossero solo coperti da una pellicola trasparente. Il mare è una tavola e mai posto fu più adatto per rilassarsi. Unica nota, nella Riserva, fortunatamente, non ci sono strutture turistiche ne ricettive, quindi attrezzatevi con acqua, panini e tutto il necessario per un’escursione.

Nel pomeriggio decidiamo di rientrare per una sosta veloce in campeggio, doccia, bagno in piscina, ancora doccia e poi via verso Noto.

Ricostruita nel 1693, Noto è la città barocca per eccellenza; Corso Vittorio Emanuele è un susseguirsi di palazzi decorati finemente con sculture, fantasie floreali e strane forme geometriche.

Il punto centrale del Corso è Piazza Municipio, con a sinistra Palazzo Ducezio con la magnifica facciata abbellita da colonne ed archi, e a destra sulla cima della monumentale scalinata si erge in tutta la sua magnificenza la Cattedrale di San Nicolò, un incrocio di stile neoclassico e barocco. Un modo alternativo per ammirare il corso e i palazzi in tutto il loro splendore è salendo sul tetto della Chiesa di Santa Chiara che offre un affascinante panorama.

Ma Noto non è solo barocco e arte, qui in città ci sono due delle migliori gelaterie della Sicilia (e forse del mondo) e noi, al pari di Maria Grammatico ad Erice, non possiamo lasciarcele sfuggire.
Il Caffè Sicilia, direttamente sul Corso, prepara inesorabilmente la migliore granita con gusti diversi a seconda della stagione: fragoline di bosco, gelso o le classiche caffè e mandorla; la Dolceria Costanzo, alle spalle di Corso Vittorio Emanuele, detiene il primato per il miglior gelato, tra i gusti migliori ci sono naturalmente pistacchio, mandorla, ma anche amaro e caffè. Fate un pensierino anche alla cassata, preparata nel modo classico siciliano, ai dolci alle mandorle e al torrone.

Dopo la nostra cena a base di zuccheri, decidiamo di passare il resto della serata in uno dei paesini che affacciano sul mare, in cerca di una frescura che a Noto non è facile trovare: optiamo per Marzamemi, incuriositi dal nome più che dai consigli e dalla guida, che le dedica appena due righe.

Arrivati in effetti l’impatto non è dei migliori, un lungomare moderno, bancarelle, rosticcerie, chiassosi bar con annesso karaoke, orde di ragazzini che sciamano da un punto all’altro, arrivando presto alla fine del corso. La semplice curiosità ci porta ad imboccare un vicoletto.


Marzamemi da quel punto si trasforma; questa parte della città quasi come se fosse riservata ai pochi si nasconde dietro un paio di viuzze. Un borgo marinaro dalla bellezza unica, luci che illuminano le facciate delle vecchie case popolari puntellate dal mare e dal vento, della musica accompagna i pochi turisti che sorseggiano un calice di vino ai bordi del vecchio porto con di fronte l’antica tonnara, in piazza un piccolo palco con degli attori che recitano per un pubblico familiare ed appassionato. Ad un’altra svolta ancora uno slargo con dei tavolini occupati da chi ha tardato per cenare, l’odore di brace e pesce riempie l’aria, incredibilmente il baccano del corso nuovo resta lontano da queste viuzze. Ci uniamo a chi passava di qui alla ricerca di frescura, anche noi in riva al mare, vino, musica ed una bella luna piena.

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