12 Lug 2013

I mille volti di San Pietroburgo

di | postato in: All posts, Europa | 2.107

San Pietroburgo, Piter, Petropoli, Venezia del Nord… i tanti nomi rispecchiano bene le diverse facce di questa città affacciata sul Golfo di Finlandia. Se riuscirete a sopravvivere alle difficoltà tecniche, linguistiche, meteorologiche e alla (non) logica russa, vi assicuro che vi innamorerete. O forse vi innamorerete comunque, nonostante queste difficoltà, che alla fine fanno parte del fascino e della doppiezza di San Pietroburgo. Consiglio di visitarla d’estate, innanzitutto per ovvie ragioni climatiche: le temperature sotto lo zero piacciono a pochi. Ma soprattutto, i mesi estivi sono anche quelli delle celeberrime Notti Bianche, quando i riverberi dell’ultimo sole possono durare fino all’una di notte, per poi ricominciare poche ore dopo.

Questo suggestivo periodo compensa i lunghi mesi di buio appena trascorsi e i pietroburghesi non perdono occasione per passeggiare fino a tarda notte lungo i canali e le vie del centro, magari sorseggiando una lattina extralarge di birra locale. A questo punto mi sento in dovere di avvertirvi che le notti bianche assicurano luce, non sole splendente: San Pietroburgo è una città per natura molto piovosa e quasi sicuramente vi imbatterete più volte in minacciosi nuvoloni e acquazzoni a sorpresa. Nelle giornate soleggiate, però, la luce è talmente intensa che persino le fotografie risultano abbaglianti e la città, coi suoi palazzi dalle facciate pastello, rivela la sua faccia migliore. Avendoci trascorso tre mesi, ho avuto modo di conoscere a fondo questa città che offre attrattive per ogni esigenza. Ecco una serie di consigli selezionati, per chi non ha tutto questo tempo a disposizione. Se non specificato, le attrattive evidenziate si trovano nell’isola centrale, dove quasi tutto è raggiungibile a piedi, anche se prendere la metro è sicuramente un’esperienza da fare: è una delle più profonde del mondo e il tempo di discesa sulle scale mobili può raggiungere i tre minuti! Ultima nota: le maggioranza delle attrattive si trova nell’isola centrale, ma le isole attorno sono altrettanto belle e meritevoli di una visita. Fate solo attenzione se decidete di visitarle di sera: durante le notti d’estate i ponti di Piter si aprono per permettere il passaggio delle navi sulla Neva. Se non calcolerete bene i tempi, potreste rimanere intrappolati nell’isola sbagliata!

Per gli amanti dell’Arte

Imperdibile l’Ermitage, la sterminata collezione d’arte ospitata nella reggia imperiale. All’ingresso potrete chiaramente munirvi di cartina ma, fidatevi, vi perderete lo stesso ed è questo il bello di questo museo immenso e imponente. Consiglio di vagare nelle grandiose stanze del palazzo, magari evitando le comitive di turisti appena scesi dalla loro nave da crociera. Lungo quest’esplorazione, vi imbatterete in opere di Picasso, Matisse, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, Velázquez.
Altra tappa fondamentale è il Museo di Stato Russo, completamente dedicato all’arte russa dal XII al XX secolo. La sede principale è situata nel Palazzo Michajlovskij e, oltre alle collezioni permanenti, ospita anche mostre temporanee relative alla cultura e all’arte nazionale. Nonostante la sue dimensioni non siano sterminate come quelle dell’Ermitage, la visita potrebbe provarvi fisicamente. La collocazione del museo si rivela quindi strategica, visto che si affaccia sulla Piazza delle Arti (Ploshchad Iskusstv): concedetevi una pausa su una delle panchine che attorniano la statua di Aleksandr Pushkin, prima di dirigervi verso la vostra prossima destinazione.

Per gli appassionati di letteratura

Per chi ama la parola scritta, le case museo sono un must: Aleksandr Pushkin, Anna Achmatova, Fjodor Dostoevskij,
sono solo alcuni degli scrittori che abitarono in questa città, e le loro case sono ora patrimonio statale e aperte al pubblico. Consiglio la Casa Museo Pushkin per il sentimento che tutti i russi nutrono per lui. La casa museo si affaccia sul canale Mojka e, visitandone le 11 stanze, potrete imbattervi in turisti russi che, muniti di audioguida multilingue, piangono ascoltando la triste storia del poeta. La casa museo della poetessa acmeista Anna Achmatova, all’interno della Fontannyj Dom, Litejnij Prospekt, conta meno stanze ma vale la visita se, come me, ne avete studiato le opere per un semestre e volete assolutamente vedere i guanti da lei celebrati nel “Canto dell’Ultimo Incontro”. Se ai versi lineari e semplici invece preferite la prosa appassionata di Dostoevskij, dirigetevi al vicolo Kuznechnyj, nella zona Vladimirskaja. In questo angusto appartamento, Dostoevskij compose “Il sosia” e I Fratelli Karamazov” e la zona in cui è situato, al tempo alquanto malfamata e discutibile, gioca un ruolo fondamentale in queste opere.

Per chi ama riposarsi all’ombra delle fresche frasche

Si sa, i musei sono perfetti per le giornate di pioggia, tanto frequenti a San Pietroburgo. Nei giorni di sole però, suggerirei una bel giro turistico nei vari giardini che punteggiano la città di verde. I più famosi sono i Giardini d’Estate. Fresco di restaurazione, il locus amoenus preferito dei pietroburghesi è stato riaperto nell’estate 2012, e questi hanno festeggiato riversandosi nei vialetti di ghiaia, ammirando le statue neoclassiche e facendosi scattare vanitose fotografie davanti alle varie fontane.

Subito accanto trovate il Campo di Marte, ideale se volete distendervi al sole e riposarvi un poco. Al centro del campo si trova una lapide di granito rosso con una fiamma eterna che brucia: questo monumento fu eretto nel 1919 per commemorare gli eroi morti nella rivoluzione del 1917. Questi due fazzoletti di verde sono ideali per una pausa tra le varie visite, visto che si trovano a un tiro di schioppo da tutte le maggiori attrazioni dell’isola centrale: Nevskij Prospekt, Chiesa del Salvatore sul Sangue Versato, Museo Russo, Castello Michajlovskij. Se di avete già visitato tutte questi siti, spingetevi un po’ più a est, sempre nell’isola centrale e date un occhiata ai Giardini di Tauride, più grandi e meno turistici e, a mio parere, anche più belli.

Per gli amanti della storia

San Pietroburgo è una città affascinante e contradditoria: un giorno tempestosa, il giorno dopo luminosa, i suoi abitanti sembrano non sorridere mai e poi si rivelano le persone più ospitali della terra. La storia di questa città, e della Russia,
si può ricondurre a questa doppiezza, con lo zarismo prima e il comunismo poi. Il Museo di Storia Politica è una buona tappa per gli amanti della storia: situato nell’isola Petrogradskaja, in Kubysheva Ulitsa, questo museo si propone di riportare lo sviluppo della storia politica russa dei secoli XIX e XX. Nota interessante di questo museo è la sua collocazione: il palazzo Art Nouveau fu prima residenza della ballerina Matilde Kshesinskaja, presunta amante dello zar Nicola II, ma dopo la rivoluzione la casa fu occupata dal comitato del partito bolscevico e Lenin vi stabilì il suo ufficio, dando quindi una doppia valenza anche a questo edificio. Il museo è interessante ma contenuto e di sicuro dopo questa visita avrete tempo per dirigervi alla Fortezza di Pietro e Paolo, subito davanti a voi. Antico nucleo della città, la fortezza ospita, tra le altre cose, la Cattedrale di Pietro e Paolo, con all’interno le spoglie di quasi tutti i sovrani russi, e il bastione Trubeckoj, sede della prigioni.

San Pietroburgo notturna

Sperando che tutto questo camminare e visitare non vi abbia stremati, ecco qualche suggerimento per vivere la San Pietroburgo by night.
Tappa obbligatoria per chi vuole fare festa è il Fidel: infilatevi in questo minuscolo discopub in Dumskaja ulitsa, subito dietro il Gostinyj Dvor in Nevskij Prospekt, ingollate un paio di bicchierini di vodka e lanciatevi in danze sfrenate nella pista lillipuziana. I locali vi individueranno subito come turisti e cercheranno subito di attaccare bottone con voi. Se sarete fortunati, riuscirete a scambiare quattro parole in un inglese stentato, verrete omaggiati con birre gratis e a fine serata potrete dire di aver fatto amicizia con dei russi. Se necessitate di un po’ più di spazio vitale, dirigetevi al bar Cipa, Inzhenernaja ulitsa: potrete ballare in pista o bere una birra in tranquillità in una saletta a parte, e anche giocare a calcetto con i vostri nuovi ebbri amici. Se il piano sopracitato vi attira poco, potete sorseggiare una birra in tranquillità al Cane Randagio (Podval brodjacej sobaki) bar cabaret in ulitsa Iskusstv, dove negli anni Dieci del Novecento si esibivano i poeti simbolisti e acmeisti. Oggi meno prestigioso ma ancora impegnato sul fronte artistico, ospita piccole esibizioni e mostre. Ulteriore proposta per una sera d’estate a San P: sorseggiate una lattina di birra, precedentemente comprata in un tipico supermercatino aperto 24 ore, nella Piazza del Palazzo e aspettate l’apertura dei ponti. Non cedete ai colpi di sonno, lo spettacolo vale l’attesa fino alle due di notte!

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