26 Lug 2013

Giorno 4 – Sul sentiero tra cielo e mare

di | postato in: All posts, Italia, Itinerandi Summer Tour, On the Road, Sicilia On the Road | 204

La nostra Sicilia On the Road inizia oggi. Lasciamo Palermo con il conta chilometri che segna già 214 Km percorsi; la direzione è la parte ovest dell’isola, nel cuore della provincia di Trapani. L’autostrada che percorriamo è una di quelle strade su cui si è scritta una delle pagine più nere della storia d’Italia, gli obelischi che incrociamo all’altezza di Capaci ci ricordano che li fu ucciso da Cosa Nostra Giovanni Falcone, sua moglie e la sua scorta.

La prima tappa della giornata è la Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro. Proseguendo sulla A29, si lascia l’autostrada a Castellammare del Golfo e si prosegue per Scopello, fino all’ingresso della Riserva. Conviene non fermarsi molto lungo la strada per non mettersi in cammino, una volta arrivati alla riserva, con il sole già alto.

La costa dello Zingaro infatti è uno dei pochissimi tratti di costa della Sicilia non contaminata dalla presenza di una strada litoranea; il tentativo di creare un arteria stradale che unisse direttamente Castellammare a San Vito lo Capo fu fatto tra il 1976 e il 1980, ma una grande mobilitazione cittadina e delle associazioni ambientaliste ne bloccò la costruzione.

La costa è formata da rilievi calcarei con falesie che da un’altezza massima di 913 m (Monte Speziale) degradano ripidamente verso il mare, intercalate da numerose calette. La Riserva è il rifugio di circa 40 specie ornitologiche e di circa 700 varietà di piante; naturalmente la flora è quella tipica della macchia mediterranea, quindi non aspettatevi passeggiate all’ombra e alberi sotto cui riposare.

L’ingresso al parco costa 3 € e vi verrà consegnata una cartina con i vari sentieri e le spiagge raggiungibili.

Vi sconsigliamo di sostare alla prima spiaggia (Cala Capreria), il troppo caldo e la pigrizia fanno si che la maggior parte dei visitatori si fermino qui. Noi abbiamo evitato anche la seconda, Cala del Varo, e abbiamo puntato, diretti, a Cala della Disa.

La passeggiata è incantevole, sul sentiero a strapiombo sul mare, sembra di essere in equilibrio sul costone di roccia. L’acqua è cristallina, il silenzio su questi sentieri è coinvolgente e rende l’attesa ancora più grande.

Il percorso è facile, ma non pensati di farlo con infradito o ciabatte, attrezzatevi con scarpe chiuse (di qualsiasi tipo, non sono necessarie quelle da trekking), e portate con voi qualche bottiglia d’acqua e qualcosa per uno spuntino. La Riserva è sprovvista di qualsiasi servizio, sia di ristoro, sia per quanto riguarda le attrezzature in spiaggia.

Dopo circa un’ora di cammino si arriva alla Cala della Disa, la fatica vale la sorpresa, incastonata tra le rocce  c’è una piccola spiaggetta, uno dei mari più belli mai visti, il luogo adatto dove riposare i sensi.

Poco distante c’è Cala Beretta, più piccola, ma che vale la pena visitare. L’idea di dover percorrere l’intero tragitto a ritroso purtroppo scoraggia dal continuare sui sentieri, ma varrebbe davvero la pena provare a spingersi fino a Cala Marinella.

Ripresa la macchina che con un po’ di fortuna è finita in zona d’ombra ci dirigiamo verso la prossima meta. Ora che non siamo di fretta vale la pena pensare ad una sosta sulle spiagge di Scopello, un piccolo borgo dal fascino suggestivo, di costruzione settecentesca con mura e alti cancelli. Le stradine ricordano quelle classiche viste nei film sulla Sicilia.

Dopo un caffè nella piazzetta, facciamo l’ultimo bagno della giornata sulla spiaggia della tonnara. Dismessa nel 1980 si dice sia li dal 1200, le acque sono di un azzurro sorprendente e la baia è protetta da faraglioni.

Lasciamo anche Scopello per dirigerci a Lido Valderice, il posto è stato scelto principalmente per la sua posizione, a metà strada tra la Riserva e le mete da visitare il giorno successivo.

Dopo esserci sistemati al Camping Lido Valderice facciamo un giro nel piccolo borgo. Poche case, qualcuna di pescatori, lo intuiamo dalle reti disposte all’esterno, quasi tutte di vacanzieri, una piccola spiaggia. Il posto è ottimo come punto d’appoggio, un po’ di meno se pensate di passarci qualche giorno.

Visto il pranzo veloce ci siamo concentrati sulla ricerca di un posto per cenare e abbiamo scelto il Ristorante Costa Azzurra. Busiatini ai frutti di mare, involtini di pesce spada e radicchio, tonno fresco, tutto ad un prezzo accessibile.

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