5 Lug 2013

L’altra penisola sorrentina

di | postato in: All posts, Campania360°, Italia | 672

Visto dall’alto di una qualsiasi cartina della Campania, c’è tra Sorrento e Positano un lembo triangolare di terra, che tende verso Capri. Ultimo appiglio terrestre di questo lembo è Punta Campanella, terra di mitologiche sirene. Da qui si diramano le due costiere, amalfitana e sorrentina.

La nostra proposta parte da qui, dalla punta. Vi suggeriamo un itinerario di tre giorni di turismo insolito. Baie mozzafiato, piccoli borghi e sentieri collinari.

Potrete muovervi con i mezzi di trasporto pubblici, ma potrebbe non essere molto agevole. In automobile avrete la maggiore autonomia possibile. I più sportivi potrebbero spostarsi in bicicletta lungo i sentieri collinari e fino alle spiagge, ma ci vorranno glutei e polpacci allenati per sopportare le continue variazioni di altimetria.

Geograficamente al centro di questo itinerario c’è la frazione Termini di Massa Lubrense. Piantare lì le tende potrebbe essere la soluzione ottimale. Ma non disperate, se doveste trovare alloggio altrove.

Periodi consigliati: fine primavera; inizio autunno.

Primo giorno
Sveglia presto. Approfittate del fresco mattutino. I bar e le pasticcerie di zona sono famosi per caffè e dolci ad hoc, indispensabili a cominciare la giornata carichi. Prima meta suggerita è Marina della Lobra.
Come raggiungerla: arrivati a Massa Lubrense, sul belvedere nei pressi della chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie, imboccate il sentiero a gradoni che prosegue verso il basso. Tra olivi e giardini, passando di fianco a muretti di mattoncini, scendete verso mare. Giunti al primo incrocio (fra Via Canneto e Via Siringano), proseguite lungo la strada di sinistra.
Seguendo il segnavia giallo-rosso, attraversate la strada rotabile Via Vincenzo Maggio, e imboccate il sentiero, posto di fronte. Si giunge così su Via Pipiano.
Tenendo sempre la sinistra, fino all’incrocio con Via Cristoforo Colombo, si incontrano una caratteristica fontana ad angolo, e, posta in alto, di fronte, una delle numerose edicole votive titolate alla Madonna della Lobra.
Continuate a scendere. Attraversata la rotabile Via Fontanella, vi ritroverete nella piazza che ospita il celebre Monastero di Santa Maria della Lobra.
Da qui, in pochi minuti, sarete arrivati nel borgo marinaro di Marina della Lobra. Il piccolo caseggiato è abitato ancora oggi, per lo più, da pescatori. Profumi e colori delle case, il mare dietro ogni angolo. La Madonna della Lobra ad ogni angolo.

La risalita è possibile sia seguendo la stessa strada, sia passando via spiaggia per località San Montano, per poi ricongiungersi con via Siringano, già incontrata in precedenza.

Tornati su, decidete se fare la spesa per pranzo o se mangiare in strada qualcosa. Non dovrebbe scarseggiare la varietà.
Per il pomeriggio, rimanendo sul versante sorrentino della penisola, altra discesa a mare: da Massa Lubrense, seguendo la strada per Sorrento, prima di arrivare in città, seguite le indicazioni per Marina di Puolo. Altro piccolo abitato di pescatori, ora attrezzato anche per la ricezione turistica. Troverete locali e lidi. Potrete fare il bagno anche sulle spiagge libere.
Aveste ancora voglia di calate a mare, a poche centinaia di metri di distanza ci sono i Bagni della Regina Giovanna. Celebre località balneare tanto per turisti, quanto per locali.
Tornate alla base, ovunque essa sia, fate la doccia e per la serata spostatevi verso il fresco. Avete meritato uno dei migliori gelati della Campania, a Vico Equense, da “Gabriele” (Corso Umberto I, 8). E se vi venisse voglia, provate anche i formaggi, produzione prima con cui cominciò le attività il capostipite.

Secondo giorno
Anche oggi mare. Stavolta, però, passando attraverso la collina. Sveglia di buon’ora (importante evitare il caldo battente sia all’andata che al ritorno) e via verso Nerano. Portate con voi il pranzo a sacco. Giunti nella piazzetta di Nerano, proseguite a piedi verso la base del monte che sovrasta il piccolo abitato, troverete qui via Jeranto: una volta imboccata, non ci si può più sbagliare. Il percorso è piuttosto impegnativo, se non siete esperti del trekking, perciò attrezzatevi con acqua, cappellini e scarpe adatte. Se siete esperti regolatevi a piacere vostro. Dopo circa 45 minuti di cammino si arriva a destinazione. La baia è lì in basso. Prima di arrivarci, si passa di fianco a costruzioni in tufo e in mezzo ai limoneti. Sentite le onde frangersi contro le rocce già da lontano. Proseguirete tenendo la sinistra. Vedete sulla destra, scendendo, la sagoma spoglia di alberi del Monte Costanzo. La spiaggia è piccola, di rocce. L’ombra non è tanta. Da questa baia in passato veniva estratta la pietra calcarea. Resti dell’impianto in disuso sono ancora  visibili.

Nel pomeriggio vi proponiamo il relax. Salite a Sant’Agata sui due golfi, passeggiate per le stradine del centro, godetevi il fresco dopo l’escursione mattutina. Se vi va, salite in località “deserto”: è accessibile qui una torre, all’interno di un edificio religioso, da cui si possono realmente ammirare i due golfi. Se non siete stanchi, Sorrento è a pochi chilometri. Approfittatene per la serata.

Terzo giorno.
Nuova avventura, doppia chance. Cala di Mitigliano, suggestiva spiaggia con vista panoramica, dalla quale si vede, tra due lingue di terra, Capri. Allungando il braccio, vi sembrerà di poterla stringere in un pugno. Munitevi dell’occorrente per una giornata all’aria aperta. Dove sarebbe la doppia chance? Presto detto: raggiungete la frazione Termini di Massa Lubrense; da qui trovate le indicazioni per la Cala di Mitigliano. Ecco la scelta: c’è una strada asfaltata, più lunga, seguendo la quale si arriva a dei parcheggi privati a poca distanza dalla piccola spiaggia; c’è un’altra strada, invece, comunale, che scende tra orti privati e pareti di roccia e che arriva comunque alla piccola spiaggia. Molto suggestiva in discesa, difficoltosa per escursionisti della prima ora; ai limiti del trekking estremo in salita al ritorno (per gli escursionisti della prima ora possibile solo con sollevamento in elicottero). A voi la scelta. Passerà mezza giornata.

Tornati su, c’è una salumeria di cui è possibile approfittare per il ristoro.
Pomeriggio: prendetevela comoda. Arrivati nella piazzetta di Nerano, che già conoscete, continuate oltre, seguendo le indicazioni per Marina del Cantone. Vicino al mare, c’è una piccola piazza con qualche negozio, dove potete lasciare l’auto; il lungomare è di poche centinaia di metri, con qualche bar e qualche localin. Dalla spiaggia davanti a voi partono anche le barche per Capri.
Se dovesse venirvi voglia di vita da vip, Positano non dista molto e il panorama della costiera amalfitana qui è insolito: la flora selvatica sovrabbonda. Racconterete poi ai parenti che parcheggiare a Positano è come pagare una cambiale.

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