Giorno 3 – Sbirciando la città

Giorno 3, noi lo iniziamo in spiaggia, sulla sabbia di Isola delle Femmine, circa 18 km dal centro di Palermo è un comune separato e prende il nome dall’isolotto di fronte la costa.

Un bel po’ di leggende girano circa l’origine del nome, tra cui il fatto che la torre sull’isola fosse un carcere per sole donne; un’altra narra che il conte di Capaci s’invaghì di una donna del luogo e la fece imprigionare sull’isolotto, lei non ricambiando una notte si gettò tra gli scogli; certo è che la bellezza del mare in questa zona è indiscutibile. Passate una mattina di relax in spiaggia, ci sono numerosi servizi accessibili a prezzi convenienti e lunghi tratti di spiaggia libera.

La zona è particolarmente apprezzata anche dagli amanti del surf; qui la costa aprendosi completamente lascia spazio al Mediterraneo e alle sue onde. Non sorprendetevi perciò se vedrete tavole da surf sparpagliate lungo la spiaggia.

Verso ora di pranzo tornate verso Palermo e programmate un pranzo all’Antica Focacceria San Francesco (Via Alessandro Paternostro, 58); qualcuno vi dirà che il posto attira turisti, ma possiamo garantirvi che i piatti sono ottimi e cucinati al meglio della tradizione palermitana. Per pranzo, in estate, la piazza si riempie dei banchi su cui vengono cucinate le varie portate e si possono assaggiare diverse cose. Noi vi consigliamo la Pasta con le sarde, le Sarde alla beccafico, la Caponata e le Arancine.

Se avete voglia di restare in spiaggia programmate una capatina all’Antica Focacceria almeno in serata.

Dopo il pranzo tornate nella Vucciria e fate una passeggiata quando il sole è alto, vi sorprenderà il fatto che i vicoli sembrano completamente diversi che guardarli di sera, noterete i dettagli, gli aspetti particolari che avevate tralasciato. Ve li lasciamo scoprire.

Cercate il percorso che vi porta ai 5 Tesori della Loggia, un biglietto unico vi permetterà di accedere alle cinque chiese e cappelle. La zona era abitata dai mercanti genovesi, ancora oggi, le numerose piazze dell’antico quartiere testimoniano l’intensa vita di relazioni del passato; l’Oratorio di San Domenico, la Chiesa e l’Oratorio di San Cita, la Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Genovesi e la Chiesa di Santa Maria di Valverde conservano alcune opere celebri, tra cui dipinti del pittore Van Dyck. Se avete ancora voglia di assaggiare qualcosa di tipico, all’imbocco della Vucciria troverete di sicuro il banchetto storico che prepara lo Sfincione (una pizza condita con sugo a base di pomodoro, acciughe, cipolle, origano).

Fuori dal centro vale la pena spingersi fino alle Catacombe dei Cappuccini (Piazza dei Cappuccini,1); una galleria sinistra che contiene le spoglie di più di 800 palermitani. In cambio di donazioni al Convento i corpi venivano imbalsamati, vestiti con l’abito migliore e collocati nelle nicchie riservate; la sistemazione era diversa a seconda dello status sociale, sesso, religione e professione. Soffermatevi vicino al corpo di Rosalia, una bambina morta all’età di due anni, il cui corpo è ancora perfettamente conservato.

In alternativa a questa visita interessante ma macabra ci sono diverse cose da poter visitare: il Castello della Zisa, con le sue volte a muqarna, le finestre a graticcio e le fontane è il massimo esempio di architettura araba a Palermo; il Duomo di Monreale, di costruzione normanna, è una delle espressioni artistiche più alte del medioevo italiano; il Monte Pellegrino, con il Santuario di Santa Rosalia e le Grotta dell’Addura; o tornate al mare sulla spiaggia di Mondello.

Prima di cena girovagate per la Kalsa, il quartiere esterno rispetto alle mura più antiche, nato in periodo arabo, al suo interno vi era la cittadella fortificata dell’emiro. Se scegliete il periodo giusto vi troverete nei giorni del Kals’art, un festival di musica e teatro che offre l’opportunità di visitare i siti fini a tarda notte.

Per l’ultima sera a Palermo concedetevi una cena in uno dei luoghi del miglior street food palermitano: Nni Franco U’ Vastiddaru (Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 102). Il nome (intraducibile) da l’idea di quanto sia siciliano il posto, tavolini sparpagliati sulla piazzetta di fronte, si mangia secondo la filosofia che se non è fritto non è buono, quindi preparatevi ad arancine, melanzane imbottite, crocchè, milza.

Noi abbiamo finito la serata in giro per i vicoli della città, alla ricerca di qualcosa di forte che ci facesse digerire.

Vi vogliamo segnalare una buona iniziativa che è nata a Palermo da un po’ di tempo: Posteggiamo i posteggiatori. Un movimento spontaneo di cittadini che vuole combattere il fenomeno dei parcheggiatori abusivi, secondo la logica, secondo noi giusta, che pagare il posteggiatore abusivo, sotto minaccia di danni all’auto è come pagare il pizzo. Qualche informazione in più cliccando qui Posteggiamo i posteggiatori.

Palermo ci piace per la sua arte, la cultura, il mare, il cibo, ma soprattutto per la sua gente.

 

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