13 Nov 2013

In sella sulla Strada del Montefeltro

di | postato in: All posts, Italia, Smart Tips | 416

Una strada interna, di quelle antiche, che collegano una sponda all’altra dello stivale.
La Strada del Montefeltro parte da Arezzo e raggiunge Rimini attraversando antiche rocche, piccoli villaggi che ancora narrano di grandi battaglie, vallate, colline, laghi, che si susseguono in uno dei paesaggi più belli del centro Italia.

Le mappe aperte ad evidenziare i punti di sosta, cerchiamo col rosso i posti da non perdere, controlliamo attrezzature, materiale, pronti ad iniziare il percorso in groppa ad una due ruote.

Arezzo è una dama indaffarata, c’è un andirivieni di gente in tutte le strade, anche i volti delle ragazze, sedute sui prati a chiacchierare, riportano alla mente gli i dipinti degli stilnovisti; una città indissolubilmente legata alla sua storia.
La mattina partiamo presto, la giornata è chiara, ma l’aria è ancora fresca.

Il primo tratto dell’itinerario ci porta verso la foce dello Scopetone, un modesto valico a 526 m di quota, ma anche una porta che consente di viaggiare attraverso le epoche, di qui infatti transitarono fanti e cavalieri nel 1440 e quattro secoli dopo, in una notte d’estate del 1849, queste stesse macchie offrirono rifugio a Garibaldi e Anita, in fuga verso nord, dopo la caduta della Repubblica Romana.
La strada scende poi velocemente, seguendo il corso del Cerfone, le moto corrono dopo i primi km di leggere salita con marce basse, dopo un po’ di strada arriviamo al luogo della nostra prima sosta.

Anghiari. Nella piana sotto la città si scontrarono le truppe milanesi con quelle fiorentine, la celebre battaglia divenne un dipinto di Leonardo, conservato nel Salone del Cinquecento di Palazzo Vecchio. Un borgo vivo di tradizioni genuine, arroccato su uno sperone roccioso e articolato in un dedalo di viuzze in pietra; arriviamo nel giorno in cui si tiene la Mostra mercato dell’artigianato, forse la più importante dell’Italia centrale. Tradizione e modernità, in una manifestazione che abbraccia tutti i settori dell’artigianato: dall’antiquariato alla lavorazione del ferro e della ceramica, dalla pietra lavorata ai metalli preziosi, dalle stoffe al cuoio. La passeggiata culmina in un monumento particolare, forse un po’ folle: la badia dell’XI secolo; altro palazzo da visitare è Palazzo Taglieschi e la chiesa di Sant’Agostino. Scendendo da Anghiari lungo lo stradone trecentesco si arriva alla piccola chiesa di Santo Stefano, posta all’inizio della vasta pianura che giunge fino a Sansepolcro; è uno dei più arcaici edifici alto-medievali della Toscana risalente al VII secolo e con reminiscenze bizantine.

Sansepolcro. La gente di qui la chiama semplicemente “il Borgo”, costruita in posizione strategica sull’ex strada imperiale Ravenna-Roma. La piccola cittadina, un tempo una delle città nobili del Granducato di Toscana, è stata la patria di Piero della Francesca ed è qui che sono conservate alcune delle sue opere più celebri. Le strade del centro storico sono ricche di palazzi in stile barocco e lungo via XX Settembre si crea quasi una scenografia teatrale.

Siamo pochi km a sud dal valico appenninico di Verghereto, che conduce in Romagna e risaliamo in quella direzione costeggiando le rive del lago artificiale di Montedoglio. Questo è l’ultimo posto-ristoro possibile prima di affrontare le rampe dell’appennino fino al Valico di Viamaggio; alle spalle 55 km percorsi, davanti, il settore più impervio e spettacolare dell’intero percorso. Possiamo concederci uno spuntino a base di focaccia con porchetta.

La salita verso i 983 metri slm del valico di Viamaggio si svolge, con marce basse, tra i boschi di quest’angolo di Toscana, incuneato tra l’alta Romagna e le Marche, vecchia zona di carbonai, poeti e contrabbandieri. Arrivati sul passo ci accoglie il rifugio albergo l’Imperatore, da queste parti non si possono non assaggiare i formaggi prodotti dalle fattorie nei dintorni, pecorini, caprini, più o meno stagionati, aromatizzati alle vinacce; un ottimo posto per respirare l’aria sottile.

Ripartiamo lungo la strada che ancora una volta scende fino a Badia Tedalda; la zona dell’Alpe della Luna è un paesaggio frantumato di marne argillose e di pietra arenaria, con curve di terra modellate dalla pioggia in calanchi sinuosi o a strapiombo che alternano squarci nel terreno a improvvisi scorci panoramici sulle valli.
Se si vuole toccare con mano cosa significa vivere in una comunità rurale, bisogna allontanarsi per un attimo dalla via principale e raggiungere le frazioni di Monteviale e Montelabreve e scambiare quattro chiacchiere con agricoltori e pastori.
Tornati sull’itinerario principale si scende agevolmente verso Ponte Persale, dove si superano per la prima volta le acque del fiume Marecchia, che ci accompagnerà fino a Rimini: per ora, la strada procede lungo la destra del suo letto, via via più ampio, a cavallo dei confini regionali fino all’arroccata Pennabilli.
Ripercorrendo l’antica “Via Ariminensis” e la “Strada Romea” dei pellegrini medievali, ci siamo lasciati alle spalle una serie di edifici che segnavano il confine tra il regno longobardo e l’esarcato di Ravenna; un antico cimitero, chiese e monasteri bizantini, il paese fantasma di Montebotolino, abitato, in inverno, da una sola persona.
Dai formaggi di Viamaggio alla piada farcita di Pennabilli sono passati circa 30 km e la sella stimola l’appetito; la cittadina è permeata della memoria di Tonino Guerra, il poeta che ha vissuto qui per circa 23 anni ha lasciato un’impronta indelebile delle sue idee a Pennabilli.

Godetevi il paesaggio prima di affrontare gli ultimi 45 km che ci porteranno fino all’Adriatico; i sassi Simone e Simoncello fitti di fauna e ci tocca guidare con prudenza, per il rischio o nella speranza di incontrare intere famiglie di daini, cervi e caprioli.
Come se zigzagassimo sul fiume Marecchia attraversiamo Ponte Baffoni e appena 8 km dopo Ponte Santa Maria Maddalena, passando dalla riva destra a quella sinistra e tornando indietro.


In lontananza di fronte a noi già si intravede la rocca di San Leo e non possono che tornare alla mente le parole di Dante: “ma qui convien che l’om voli”, oggi però una strada conduce fin sulla rupe. Il borgo riporta indietro al medioevo e regala l’emozione di passeggiare nei sotterranei di antiche congreghe, tra portici in pietra, fontane da cui si abbeveravano destrieri e cavalieri; una poesia di pietre e ciottoli.

Si riprende la strada, sulla riva destra della Marecchia, le ampie curve disegnano davanti a noi Pietracuta, Torello e Ponte Verrucchio, sul confine con la Repubblica di San Marino; sfiorate l’ingresso della ciclo-pedonale che conduce a Rimini e procedete sotto l’arco solitario, ultimo simbolo della vecchia ferrovia dismessa.

Dopo, resta solo il tramonto che si allunga alle spalle e le luci della città di Fellini, che si accendono tutte insieme per darvi il benvenuto. Arco di Augusto, Ponte Tiberio e un veloce saluto al Borgo San Giuliano, per poi lasciarsi accogliere dal cuore della città vera, raccolta intorno alla Pescheria, lontani dai neon del lungomare. Dopo tanta strada per raggiungere Rimini, pensiamo di esserci guadagnati il diritto di stare qui e non sentirci turisti.

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