Lungo le strade balcaniche: Mostar, Sarajevo, Dubrovnik

Finalmente Bosnia, avevamo voglia di arrivare su queste terre, di cui tanto si sente parlare e che tanto sembrano lontane da noi. I nomi della città sono accompagnati da ricordi carichi di storia e tragedia; non visiteremo molto qui, ma abbiamo scelto le due città sicuramente più rappresentative di questa terra: la capitale Sarajevo e Mostar, città di incontro e scontro.

Lasciandoci Spalato alle spalle e proseguendo verso l’interno della Croazia arriviamo fino a Vrgorac, lì c’è una dogana meno conosciuta e forse l’attesa sarà minore. Ormai sorprende continuamente noi europei questo continuo dover essere controllati, passaporto, bagagliaio, documenti dell’auto, ma da quando siamo qui è già la terza volta che ci tocca farlo, e ci rassegniamo incolonnati dietro una lunga fila di auto sotto il sole di agosto. Il vero problema per chi decide di fare questo tratto in auto è che da qui si passa per raggiungere Medjugorie, luna park cattolico, dove ogni giorno si riversano migliaia di fedeli, girovagando tra le stradine cariche di souvenir cinesi e ristoranti di bassissimo livello.

Questo flusso costante influenza anche il turismo di Mostar, a pochi km, dove, orde di turisti, dove un bagno di fede raggiungono la città, prima tappa della Bosnia islamica nel cuore d’Europa. Un preambolo forse con un po’ di storia bisogna farlo, più che altro per cancellare la sorpresa di tanti nello scoprire città islamiche al centro d’Europa; basti pensare che la Bosnia, appunto fino a Mostar, ha subito per oltre 400 anni la dominazione ottomana per poi passare agli austriaci agli inizi del novecento, ciò ha influenzato inevitabilmente la cultura di questi posti creando spaccature enormi tra le comunità che vivono fianco a fianco.

Mostar

Avvicinandoci alla città, nelle zone periferiche, si incontrano ancora palazzi con gli evidenti segni dei bombardamenti, abbandonati, e sventrati tutt’oggi, ma pian piano che ci si avvicina al centro compaiono già in lontananza i primi minareti; la città è attrezzata ad accogliere i turisti e questo ci permette di parcheggiare velocemente e raggiungere il centro storico.

Seppure ci aspettassimo folla, non immaginavano questo, il piccolo centro, completamente ristrutturato e recuperato dopo la guerra degli anni ’90, ha una forma di T con due strade principali, moschee ai due lati, piccole case, il mercato e il famoso ponte.

Facendosi spazio tra la gente si riesce a passeggiare e ad infilarsi in qualche bottega, arrivati allo Stari Most, protagonista di centinaia di fotografie e cartoline, si capisce subito perchè affascini tanto: costruito dai turchi nel 1500 fu distrutto durante le guerre dell’ex-Jugoslavia e ricostruito con gli stessi materiali ed utilizzando gli stessi progetti dell’originale. Se l’architettura può sembrare semplice riesce a trasmettere una grande imponenza unendo due sponde sull’enorme gola dove scorre la Neretva. Se questo ponte fosse riuscito ad unire i popoli come unisce la terra la storia di questi luoghi sarebbe molto diversa.

Se il centro storico di Mostar è affascinante e ti trasporta nel cuore del medio-oriente in pochi minuti, per lasciarsi sorprendere ancora di più da questi posto bisogna allontanarsi un po’ e lasciarsi alle spalle le orde barbariche di invasori in calzoncini e fotocamera. Decidiamo perciò di continuare fino ad uscire dal centro dirigendoci verso la Moschea Karađozbeg, la più importante della città e costruita nel 1557 e la Moschea di Roznamedži Ibrahimefendi l’unica uscita relativamente intatta dai bombardamenti del 1993.

La vera sorpresa è trovare a poche centinaia di metri da qui la linea del fronte che divise le truppe croate da quelle bosniache, a un ventennio dalla fine della guerra restano infatti ancora molti edifici diroccati e crivellati di colpi, soprattutto nei pressi di Spanski Trg ci sono tuttora parecchie costruzioni semidistrutte a triste ricordo del conflitto, tra questi, il più impressionante è il palazzo di nove piani a pianta triangolare in cui aveva sede la Ljubljanska Banka: è impressionante pensare quanto poco tempo è passato e soprattutto quanto vicina a noi fosse tutta questa distruzione e devastazione. Poco lontano anche a Trg Musala, un tempo il cuore della Mostar austro-ungarica, è ancora deturpata dal tozzo scheletro di quello che era lo splendido Hotel Neretva.

Purtroppo non possiamo trattenerci a lungo qui in città perchè ci aspettano altri 130 km per raggiungere Sarajevo e dopo un pranzo veloce ci rimettiamo in viaggio. Consiglio, la Bosnia è uno stato a parte rispetto alla Croazia e seppure questa possa sembrare un’affermazione scontata, non meravigliatevi se andando a Mostar, anche solo per una brevissima visita, non accettino le monete croate, quindi ricordatevi di cambiare o prelevare moneta locale, per evitare di avere rifiuti al momento di pagare.

La strada che ci porta a Sarajevo è a dir poco affascinante, costeggia per l’intero primo tratto la Neretva, che si allarga a vista d’occhio e passando da un ponte all’altro la attraversiamo più volte, poi cominciamo a salire, Sarajevo è a quasi mille metri nel centro del paese e seppure è agosto il cielo si fa scuro e una pioggerellina autunnale ci accompagna e si alterna a forti scrosci. Intanto fuori dai finestrini scorrono i piccoli paesini bosniaci, quasi villaggi, piccole moschee, campanili e chiesette, un cimitero e ancora case. Superiamo una festa di paese, sotto la pioggia su un prato c’è gente che balla e del fuoco acceso con della carne che cuoce.

E poi Sarajevo, piovosa, malinconica, sbuca alle spalle della montagna, l’aria ti riempie i polmoni e respiri storia e vita in ogni strada. Cosa ci aspettassimo da Sarajevo? Nessuno di noi lo sapeva e nessuno di noi voleva costruirsi nella propria testa l’immagine di una città che per troppo tempo avevamo rincorso. Fatto è che Sarajevo non avrebbe deluso le nostre aspettative di questo ne eravamo certi. Ma il racconto della città lo potete leggere qui.

Dopo quattro giorni immersi nel cuore della città capitale di uno dei paesi più ricchi di storia del mondo ci tocca lasciarla e ancora una volta in auto ci dirigiamo verso l’ultima tappa del nostro viaggio: Dubrovnik.

Altro percorso magnifico, questa volta ci sorprende il fatto che poco dopo aver lasciato la città, dopo circa 30 km, ci ritroviamo un finto confine, senza controlli questa volta, ma con bandiere serbe e un cartello che ci accoglie: Republika di Sprska.

A parte l’impronunciabile nome, restiamo impressionati dal fatto che dopo migliaia di morti ancora oggi possano esistere divisioni così forti all’interno di un paese, tali da creare una regione autonoma a pochi km dalla capitale. La Republika di Sprska è una sorta di protettorato autonomo serbo sul territorio bosniaco e occupa una fetta enorme spingendosi fino al confine con il Montenegro. Il paesaggio è magnifico, dolomitico e imponente, roccioso e attraversato da gole.

Ogni tanto si trovano vere e proprie baite dove fermarsi a mangiare e magari a dormire. Incontriamo un monumento in cemento che ricorda le vittime di una battaglia, una centrale elettrica, manifesti di pseudo-eroi serbi che eroicamente hanno massacrato villaggi e civili. Ci fermiamo per pranzo e, non è uno scherzo, non accettano ne soldi bosniaci ne tantomeno croati, preferiscono euro o dinari serbi; vero che da queste parti turisti non ne girano molti, ma anche questo è il simbolo evidente di uno scontro ancora non spento tra popoli che da secoli vivono fianco a fianco.

Dubrovnik

Raggiungiamo Dubrovnik, altra dogana e poi il mare, il sole e i turisti invadono l strade. Dubrovnik è da vivere in vacanza, girando nel piccolo centro perfetto e racchiuso tra le mura imponenti. Dubrovnik l’abbiamo vissuta così, spensierati, facendo il bagno e gustandoci pesce fresco, un cocktail la sera e mercatini di souvenir.

Dubrovnik ultima tappa di questo viaggio nei Balcani ve la voglio raccontare con le parole di Sebastiano:

Non che sia brutta Dubrovnik, ben inteso. Anzi.

Dall’alto del Srd mont le tegole rosse sui tetti della città vecchia quasi si tuffano a mare.
E dal mare la cinta muraria sembra creata da divinità immortali.

Non che sia brutta Dubrovnik, anzi.
Dentro le mura, tra gli stretti vicoli, la pietra bianca spezza il vento marino; dalla bianca pietra chiese e palazzi prendono e restituiscono luce solare.dubrovnik (5)

Non che sia brutta Dubrovnik: la penisola di Lapad non lesina verde e spiagge. A ogni angolo uno scorcio chiama per farsi fotografare.

Non è brutta Dubrovnik.
È solo che a un bar segue un ristorante,
a questo un’agenzia di cambio,
a questa una botteguccia di souvenir.
E così per tutta la cittadella intramuraria, quasi in ogni vicolo.

dubrovnik (1)

Non è brutta, anzi oggettivamente è bella.
Solo pare che ora sia tutto pensato e costruito, bianco e pulito,
sull’antica pietra
per offrire al turista un’esperienza unica.
Indimenticabile e conforme, leggera e fruibile come il jazz che suona a ogni angolo.

dubrovnik (2)

(A decostruire ci hanno pensato tre anziani.
Prima un tuffo e un bagno.
Poi si sono cambiati il costume in equilibrio invidiabile, divertiti in riva al mare, per andare infine a sedersi ai tavolini, a giocare a carte.
L’acqua schiumava sugli scogli alle loro spalle; spiaggia di Gradac)

dubrovnik (8)

dubrovnik (6)

 

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