Il barocco catanese, passeggiata nel Monastero dei Benedettini

postato in: All posts, Italia, Smart Tips | 624

Quando, a Catania, arrivi in Piazza Dante Alighieri ti sorprende l’imponenza della facciata della Chiesa di San Nicolò: decadente, con il suoi colori scuri e le colonne massicce, sembra più un antico tempio pagano che una chiesa del 1700.

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Alle sue spalle si trova uno dei gioielli dell’arte catanese: il Monastero dei Benedettini, che ospitò anche Goethe durante la tappa catanese del suo viaggio in Italia. Se lo visiterete in settimana incrocerete un gran via vai di ragazzi e ragazze indaffarati o che si godono il sole della città sulle balaustre dei cortili. Si, perchè oggi il Monastero è sede delle facoltà umanistiche dell’Università di Catania. Un ottimo modo per conservare e valorizzare un palazzo dai mille corridoi.

Se però vi troverete da queste parti il fine settimana, il Monastero sarà tutto per voi. Il magnifico silenzio che attraversa le stanze rende l’edificio ancora più maestoso. Grazie ad una visita guidata potrete raggiungere ogni angolo di questo palazzo e soprattutto conoscere storie che altrimenti non scoprirete da soli.

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Il Monastero sorgeva qui quando nel 1693 una colata lavica dall’Etna raggiunse il mare. Per deviarne il flusso i monaci fecero costruire un imponente muro, alto 15 metri e largo oltre 5; il risultato fu raggiunto, la colata però non risparmiò la chiesa, che fu ricostruita successivamente, inoltre quando fu smantellato il muro di protezione i monaci si trovarono di fronte ad una parete di pietra lavica alta 12 metri.

Fu l’occasione per espandere il monastero, creare nuovi corridoi e nuove stanze proprio utilizzando la pietra lavica, usandola come parete di sostegno o addirittura scavando al suo interno, fino a raggiungere l’aspetto che conserva ancora oggi.

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Osservando la facciata, nel cortile principale, si resta a bocca aperta, per la bellezza e l’eleganza delle sculture che l’abbelliscono: cherubini di pietra e volti mostruosi si susseguono affiancati da mezzo busti femminili, sorreggendo balconi e finestre con espressioni vuote e bocche spalancate, come se i personaggi di un mondo mitologico fossero rimasti d’un tratto pietrificati. Un tipico esempio di arte catanese tardo-barocca.

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All’interno lo scalone monumentale neoclassico da più l’impressione di trovarsi in un palazzo reale che in un edificio religioso. Attraversando i corridoi, attrezzati come aule studio, si arriva ai due chiostri, prima il Chiostro di Ponente, con la grande fontana rinascimentale al centro, e con le colonne marmoree che lo circondano e subito dopo il Chiostro di Levante, molto diverso dal primo, abbellito da un giardino foltissimo, e con al centro il gazebo in pietra, decorato con maioliche arabeggianti, che in passato ospitava le ore ricreative dei monaci.

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Altra visita interessante è il piano semi-interrato. Sede oggi della Biblioteca universitaria. Cunicoli bui e silenziosi, un tempo usati come depositi alimentari, mostrano la ricchezza di questa terra, grazie agli squarci nei pavimenti che fanno emergere resti di antiche ville romane che un tempo sorgevano qui.

I resti delle cucine e degli antichi forni fanno pensare a come doveva essere la vita nel monastero e soprattutto mettono in risalto l’enorme contrasto con il piano superiore, ricco e sfarzoso. Una forza imponente però la trasmette la struttura in metallo, costruita nel 2001 per reggere il pavimento dell’anti-refettorio al piano superiore. Un enorme fiore rosso sulle nostre teste o più semplicemente un getto lavico che richiama al fuoco, elemento di queste terre.

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Al secondo piano si alternano lunghi corridoi e stanzette dei monaci. Le piccole porte conservano tutt’altro che le classiche cellette monacali, anzi si aprono alle loro spalle spaziose camere, dagli alti soffitti, che un tempo ospitavano anche ricche biblioteche private, con un panorama che spaziava dall’Etna al mare. Che i monaci conducessero una vita tutt’altro che stentata lo dimostrano anche le nuove cucine: la sontuosa sala da pranzo e le testimonianze sui pasti che pare vantassero fino a sette portate.

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Ultima tappa della visita è il balcone, sulla facciata principale, che affaccia sul mare. Un luce invade gli occhi e mostra una città dalle mille sfumature, di colore e di vita. Il nero della pietra lavica, l’azzurro del mare, il rosso dei tetti, il verde dei parchi, colori che raccontano la società catanese meglio di tante parole.

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