Londra: da ovest a est, il giro del mondo in 80 piatti

postato in: All posts, Europa | 1.243

“When a man is tired of London is tired of life”

Questa è la citazione più famosa sulla capitale inglese, ma io penso che vi si addica di più questa: “London is a modern Babylon”.

Facce, lingue, abbigliamento, cucina, tutto in questa città inneggia alla diversità, persino l’aspetto dei quartieri cittadini. Infilatevi nella prima stazione della metro, fate qualche fermata e vi sembrerà di essere stati risputati fuori in un’altra città. La discrepanza che colpisce di più è quella tra est e ovest: il primo è il dominio degli artisti, degli hipster e degli studenti squattrinati; il secondo è il mondo posh per eccellenza, pieno di casette da film, giardinetti ben potati, uccellini che cinguettano e unicorni che saltellano. Le due metà della città si fondono a Soho, centro geografico e simbolico dell’intera capitale inglese.

Per visitare la moderna Babilonia, munitevi di biglietto giornaliero della metropolitana. Personalmente non amo la Tube, specialmente date le sue dimensioni microscopiche e la perenne folla, ma Londra è immensa, e se volete riuscire a vederla “tutta” in pochi giorni, questa è il mezzo più intelligente. Se invece avete qualche giorno in più a disposizione, potreste considerare di spostarvi solo in autobus: risparmierete qualche soldino e, una volta imbottigliati nel traffico, potrete almeno ammirare il paesaggio dal secondo piano dei famosi double-decker. Decidete in base alla vostra pazienza.

Sabato: dirigetevi a ovest. Prendete il coraggio a due mani e svegliatevi presto per andare a Portobello Market: è vero, è turistico, ma vale sempre la pena fare un giretto tra le bancarelle d’antiquariato e i negozietti piccoli come tazzine da tè. Resistete alla tentazione di spendere tutti i vostri averi nei primi negozi, la via è lunga e il weekend è appena cominciato! Concedetevi una cupcake da Buttercup Cake Shop, tanto per iniziare la giornata con indulgenza. Oltre a negozietti e tesori d’antiquariato, prestate un occhio ai numerosi artisti di strada, perlopiù cantanti, che forniscono una variegata colonna sonora alla vostra passeggiata. Le mie preferite: il trio di ragazze che intonano canzoncine anni ’50, con tanto di abbigliamento in stile e rossetto rosso geranio.

Quando ne avrete avuto abbastanza di camminare tra turisti tutti della vostra stessa nazionalità, tornate sui vostri passi e dirigetevi verso Holland Park. Il più romantico e posh tra i parchi londinesi, questo piccolo giardinetto vale la visita sia d’estate che d’inverno. Al suo interno, i Kyoto Gardens sono una piccola gemma, con tanto di cascatella, laghetto con carpe e pavoni che zampettano placidi e completamente indifferenti alla vostra presenza. Subito fuori da Holland Park si estende Kensington, altro punto focale della Londra ovest: potete fare un po’ di (window) shopping lungo Kensington High Street, visitare il Kensington Palace, oppure passeggiare per i Kensington Gardeds. C’è tutto, a Kensington! Il parco è la mia scelta consigliata, sia col bello che col cattivo tempo: al suo interno trovate il memoriale a Diana, la statua di Peter Pan e la Serpentine Gallery, che ospita esibizioni d’arte contemporanea a ingresso libero. Se invece l’idea di rimanere all’aperto vi è invisa, lì attorno trovate il Victoria & Albert Museum e il Natural History Museum. Oppure potete saltare su un autobus verso Sloane Square e visitare la Saatchi Gallery, altra galleria dedicata all’arte contemporanea. Fondata nel 1985 dal collezionista Charles Saatchi, questa istituzione è ora un ottimo trampolino di lancio per artisti talentuosi e sconosciuti.

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visitare-londra-Piccadilly CircusIndipendentemente dal fatto che abbiate seguito il mio vago percorso, se siete stati dei turisti diligenti a questo punto dovreste cominciare a sentire un vago languorino. Come ho già detto, Soho e dintorni sono centro geografico della città e probabilmente la zona migliore per mangiare. DI qualsiasi tipo di cibo abbiate voglia, potrete trovarlo qui.

Da Abeno Too in Great Newport Street (Tube: Leicester Square) potrete gustare gli  okonomiyaki giapponesi, una via di mezzo tra una focaccia e una frittata, cotti sulla piastra davanti ai vostri occhi e insaporiti con salse. Da provare se non temete l’odore di fritto sui vestiti.

Se preferite non sfidare le vostre papille gustative con qualcosa di totalmente ignoto, provate Nando’s. Questa catena di ristoranti si specializza in pollo in salsa piripiri, un misto di spezie di origine africana modulata in diversi gradi di piccante. Le generose porzioni di pollo e contorni e l’atmosfera rilassata  rendono Nando’s un posto conviviale e accogliente, ottimo per terminare la giornata.

visitare-londra-Greenwich park

Se invece volete mettere alla prova la vostra resistenza al piccante, provate il coreano: nei pressi della fermata Tottenham Court Road della Central Line, si trova un minuscolo ristorante di nome Seoul Bakery. Il personale è rigorosamente coreano o almeno capace di comunicare in questa lingua (utile nell’improbabile caso in cui anche voi parliate coreano). Dettaglio adorabile: la bacheca tappezzata di bigliettini da parte dei clienti, la maggior parte di questi vergati in hangul!

visitare-londra-Liverpool street

Domenica: giorno da dedicare all’est. Iniziate la giornata con una gustosa colazione all’inglese al Coffee 338, in Bethnal Green Road. La combo uova-bacon-pomodori fritti-fagioli-salsicce non vi farà di certo rimpiangere latte e cereali e, mentre vi riempite il pancino, potrete ammirare i migliori esemplari della fauna locale: gli hipster, i sovrani della Londra est, paladini degli accostamenti bizzarri e delle barbe incolte.

Dopo la sana abbuffata, esplorate il quartiere a piedi: potete visitare il mercato dei fiori a Columbia Road e rifarvi gli occhi con il tripudio di colori appartenenti a mille specie diverse, locali ed esotiche; se Portobello non vi è bastato, andate a Brick Lane. 

visitare-londra-Columbia Flower Market (2)

Troverete bancarelle e i negozietti dell’usato, ottimi per scovare qualche tesoro vintage;  coppie di amici, amanti e sconosciuti ai tavoli di carrom, gioco di origine portoghese; un vasto mercato coperto che ospita stand di abiti e cibo internazionale. Nel caso vi ci stesse un dolcino, dopo la colazione dei campioni, provate il pancake malese con Nutella e cocco. Se di cibo, e shopping ne avete abbastanza, attraversate Brick Lane con passo spedito, per quanto la folla domenicale ve lo consenta, e visitate la Whitechapel Gallery, in Whitechapel High Street, punto focale della vita artistica dell’East End. Da qui potete camminare fino al Tower Bridge, fare una bella foto da turisti, e continuare a passeggiare lungo il fiume, ponte dopo ponte, dirigendovi verso lo svettante Shard di Renzo Piano, a London Bridge. Se voleste proseguire un po’ ancora, potreste arrivare al Millenium Bridge, ferreo collegamento tra la Tate Modern e la cattedrale di Saint Paul. E ancora avanti, fino al London Eye che fronteggia il Big Ben e la House of Parliament.

visitare-londra-Saint Paul Cathedral

Io ho pietà di voi e vi lascio a London Bridge con altri tre consigli per mangiare, sperando che la colazione all’inglese non abbia traumatizzato i vostri stomaci. Tas propone cucina turca, ottimo l’hummus e la carne alla griglia. The Slug and Lettuce è un pub tranquillo con una selezione di cibi un po’ più vasta rispetto ai tradizionali pie-hamburger-fish and chips. Se invece volete concludere un weekend di coppia con una cena un po’ più “carina”, scegliete il malese Champor Champor e gustate piatti aromatici e profumati, speziati ma non troppo.

visitare-londra-Tower bridge

A fine weekend probabilmente vi sentirete allo stesso tempo inebriati di energia e spossati come dopo una maratona; vi sembrerà di aver visto tutta la città eppure di esservi persi un sacco di cose. Non temete, è tutto normale. Ultimo effetto collaterale: voglia matta di trasferirsi. Fatevi un esame di coscienza e decidete se potete reggere questo ritmo frenetico per più di due giorni consecutivi. Se la risposta è sì, prenotate un volo di sola andata senza nemmeno fare la valigia: potete comprare tutto ciò che vi serve da Primark.

Se invece durante questi giorni vi è capitato di pensare “questa gente dovrebbe rilassarsi”, mentre venivate spintonati dalla folla frenetica, limitatevi a pianificare un altro weekend. Grazie alle compagnie low cost, Londra è a sole due ore e 50 euro da voi!

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