A spasso lungo la costa dei miti

postato in: All posts, Campania360°, Italia | 399

Poche tappe lungo la costa dei miti, dove storia e leggenda si alternano continuamente e i sapori guidano il viaggiatore. Dopo una tappa obbligatoria a Paestum scappiamo giù verso sud lungo la costa, alla ricerca di piccole insenature dentro cui sorgono magnifici borghi.

Affacciata sul mare Santa Maria di Castellabate è una piccola frazione, ma un ottimo luogo dove rilassarsi, magari evitando il mese di agosto, ma anche in quel periodo ci sono mille modi per evadere dal caso vacanziero. Prima idea è quella di programmare un’escursione in barca fino a Punta Licosa, luogo mitologico, che prende il nome da una delle tre sirene che provarono ad incantare Ulisse al suo passaggio e dove ancora oggi si pensa sia sepolta un’antica città.

Dall’alto osserva il golfo il piccolo borgo di Castellabate, portato alla ribalta dal film Made in Sud, conserva l’essenza dei borghi del sud Italia, affacciati sul mare e assolati d’estate. L’intero borgo medievale si sviluppa appunto intorno al palazzo dell’abate costruito nel 1123, per difendere i cittadini del luogo dalle incursioni saracene; ancora oggi l’impianto medievale conserva stradine e vicoli, palazzi e abitazioni intercomunicanti, piazzette, archi e scalinate tutto rigorosamente in pietra grigia del Cilento. Cinque porte permettono l’accesso al paese e quattro torri racchiudono abitazioni, magazzini, forni e cisterne.

Di ritorno a Santa Maria, se decidete di restare a dormire qui, non perdete l’occasione di farvi ospitare dal principe Granito Pignatelli, tra le mura del settecentesco Palazzo Belmonte. L’esperienza sensoriale all’interno del Palazzo inizia già nel cortile con la sua aria profumata di rosa, madreselva, e gelsomino, le pietre delle mura quasi invisibili, nascoste sotto il verde delle piante rampicanti, l’unico suono quello delle vicine onde del mare; il parco di cinque acri circonda interamente il palazzo: è a maggio, in piena primavera, che i giardini diventano una tavolozza di colori, con le diverse specie in fiore.

Nel 2002 palazzo Belmonte e la spiaggia antistante del Pozzillo hanno fatto da sfondo al Calendario Pirelli 2003 e per lasciarsi andare ai racconti di vita mondana, nel 2009, anche la principessa Carolina Napoleone Bonaparte ha celebrato il proprio matrimonio a palazzo Belmonte con la presenza degli eredi delle più blasonate dinastie europee.

Proseguendo verso sud si arriva ad Acciaroli, paesino nel comune di Pollica, premiato ormai da anni con la bandiera azzurra per le spiagge e per i servizi turistici, conserva ancora quella sana genuinità del borgo di pescatori. La storia di Acciaroli comincia nel 1165, qualcuno in paese racconta di un’origine greca che indicherebbe un approdo “senza tempesta”.

La via vecchia attraversa il centro storico con le case in pietra, i balconcini fioriti e le piccole porte in legno, ma al borgo sono legate anche storie recenti: Dumas, il famoso romanziere francese, il 15 settembre del 1860, approdò ad Acciaroli con la goletta “Emma” per rifornire con 400 fucili ai Mille di Garibaldi, tra i racconti, leggendari e popolari, c’è quello sulla presenza di Hemingway, tramandata da vecchi pescatori, testimoni del tempo, secondo cui il “grande saggio” avrebbe trovato ispirazione qui per il racconto de il Vecchio e il Mare.

Palinuro e la vicina Camerota sono due soste obbligate per chi si avventura nella costa dei miti, visto che entrambe sono al centro di molte leggende. Palinuro, il nome stesso racchiude l’antica topononimo: dove il vento gira, qui Virgilio fece nascere anche la leggenda del nocchiero di Enea, appunto Palinuro, gettato in acqua dal Dio del sonno.

Poco lontano lungo la costa tra i due borghi marinari si susseguono le grotte dei Ciclopi, neanche Ulisse riuscì a resistere alle bellezze di questi posti e la fuga rocambolesca dalla grotta di Polifemo è ancora ricordata nei nomi dei camping e delle strutture
turistiche che accolgono i viaggiatori; infine Camerota, che prende il nome dalla bellissima ninfa Kamaraton, lo stesso Palinuro se ne innamorò vedendola nuotare in una notte di luna, ma fu respinto con brutalità.

I due borghi meritano una visita non solo per le leggende che li coinvolgono. Partendo dal porto di Palinuro in barca è possibile visitare numerose grotte, la prima è la grotta azzurra, ottima concorrente della più blasonata gemella di Capri, poi la grotta sulfurea, la grotta dei monaci e infine la Baia del Buon Dormire, luogo paradisiaco, antica e suggestiva dimora delle sirene, raggiungibile solo in barca e dove trascorrere una giornata di sole e relax. Quasi speculare alla costa di Palinuro, partendo dal porto di Marina di Camerota si raggiungono le grotte e le calette della costa camerotense; gioielli sono Cala Bianca, premiata come spiaggia più bella d’Italia, con i ciottoli bianchi e incastonata tra due costoni di roccia e Porto Infreschi, piccolo porto naturale, gioiello della natura.

Girare per i due paesini vale davvero la pena, le piazzette, i cortili, i giardini e le antiche case, ma due consigli su dove mangiare e dormire voglio darli. Innanzitutto La Cantina del Marchese, piatti e bicchieri di coccio, pasta fatta a mano, verdure di stagione, profumi di casa, sapori di questa terra e piatto speciale la “Maracucciata”: infatti è qui che si produce il Maracuocciolo, legume, simile al pisello, considerato un antenato delle cicerchie, espressione della biodiversità del territorio di Camerota. Da qualche anno si sta  incentivando la produzione attraverso il recupero delle sementi antiche, dai semi essiccati se ne produce farina che viene preparata sotto forma di polenta aggiungendo crostini di pane rosolati e cipolla.

Fermatevi poi a dormire all’Hotel San Pietro di Palinuro, a picco sul mare, godetevi il paesaggio dalla terrazza della vostra camera, lo sguardo spazia lungo l’orizzonte, incontrando il sole che scende in mare di fianco a Capo Palinuro. La piscina affaccia sull’infinito, godetevi il sole e il mare da li o scendendo alla spiaggia riservata appena sotto l’hotel, e se vi viene un languorino godetevi i piatti freschi in terrazza, dalle alici di Menaica alle freselle con pomodori e mozzarella di bufala cilentana… che dire una gioia per i 5 sensi!

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