Giorno #9_Kazbegi & the very last day.
Uno degli aspetti più interessanti di un viaggio, che dovrebbero essere oggetto di un accurato studio, è il concetto del tempo durante il quale esso si svolge. Inebriati di novità, di solito ci si rende conto a fatica del suo regolare scorrere, e si passa facilmente dai primi giorni, che sembrano interminabili, alla sensazione che si è lontani da casa da una vita, fino ad arrivare all’idea, giunti in aeroporto prima di andare via, che qualsiasi sia stata la durata della tua permanenza, essa sia volata in un battito di ciglia.
Non fummo immuni, noi, da questa teoria, e ci svegliammo infatti il giorno nove come si sveglierebbe qualsiasi caucasico assuefatto dalla sua terra, ma col groppone per l’imminente ripartenza, e la sensazione che non avevamo fatto abbastanza.
Senza perdersi in sentimentalismi, comunque, ci preparammo ad affrontare l’ultimo avamposto georgiano, l’affascinante Kazbegi, luogo perduto ai limiti estremi dell’Ossezia, ai piedi dei monti che dividono il Caucaso dalla Russia.
Salpammo sul Mercedes di Vano, e mettemmo in moto l’avventura. Il cielo, quel giorno, era più che tetro, piovigginava a intervalli irregolari, e ciò ci lasciò temere che andare ad affrontare i monti georgiani era forse un’idea da evitare. Poi c’assalì l’idea che non potevamo assolutamente concederci il rischio di non “provare, quantomeno, ad andare”, e previo consenso di Vano, ci mettemmo ugualmente in cammino.
Facemmo una prima tappa in un paesino appena fuori Tbilisi, precisamente a Mtskheta, un minuscolo centro che da sempre ha rappresentato il cuore spirituale della Georgia.
Secondo la tradizione, sotto l’imponente Cattedrale di Svetitskhoveli, sarebbe sepolta la tunica di Cristo. Si narra che un ebreo di Mtskheta si trovava a Gerusalemme al tempo della crocifissione, e che sia tornato nella sua città con le vesti di Gesù. Sua sorella morì non appena la indossò, presa da passione religiosa. Poiché non fu possibile sfilarle la tunica, la donna fu sepolta con essa, ma con il passare del tempo la gente dimenticò il luogo preciso in cui era stata sepolta. Quando fu deciso di edificare la chiesa, gli operai non riuscivano a sollevare da terra la colonna di legno che, secondo il progetto, avrebbe dovuto svettare al centro dell’edificio. Tuttavia, dopo un’intera notte trascorsa in veglia di preghiera da santa Nino, la colonna miracolosamente si spostò da sola verso il sito di sepoltura di Sidonia, la donna. In seguito, la colonna compì numerosi miracoli, e difatti la cattedrale fu chiamata Svetitskhoveli, che significa “Colonna che dà la vita”.
La nostra sosta risultò piuttosto breve, e dopo circa un’ora ci rimettemmo in viaggio, a battere la Strada Militare Georgiana, un ampio percorso pieno zeppo di luoghi da vedere, che si snoda attraverso le alture georgiane, fino ad arrivare in Russia. La strada abbraccia la sponda del lago artificiale di Zhinvali, prosegue per Ananuri, fino a raggiungere il Passo di Jvari, dove s’accede successivamente alla Valle del Tergi, che ospita la cittadina di Kazbegi.
Giunti all’altezza del passo sopracitato, dimenticammo presto il mondo caleidoscopico così come lo avevamo conosciuto, poiché da quel momento in poi non era più possibile percepire visivamente altro che verde.
Effettuammo una sosta da quelle parti, dove i nostri polmoni si rigenerarono all’istante, e un’acqua d’un puro vergognoso ci diede la possibilità di dissetarci divinamente. Oltre alla possibilità di assaggiare dei prodotti tipici bizzarrissimi, tutti preparati con scarti di mosto dell’uva, compressi in dischi sottilissimi, o in strisce che sembravano cravatte, o in salsicciotti ripieni di noci.
Il paesaggio ci impose di allungare i tempi di viaggio, poiché ci trovammo più volte costretti a fermarci per ammirarlo, cosa per la quale non ci pentimmo minimamente.
Attraversata poi la stazione sciistica di Gudauri, una Courmayeur georgiana, ci approssimavamo sempre più a Stepantsminda (l’attuale nome, in realtà, del paesino, ma che ancora tutti continuano a chiamare Kazbegi). Vano ci lasciò ai piedi di un’imponente monte, che pareva fosse esattamente quello che avremmo dovuto affrontare, per raggiungere il monastero, uno dei luoghi più “arrampicati” che abbia mai visto.
Era incredibile immaginare vita da quelle parti, eppure ai nostri occhi si presentarono scene di quotidianità di tempi remoti.
Armati di pazienza e determinazione, cominciammo ad inerpicarci su per il monte. Non era possibile seguire indicazioni, o essere certi di aver preso la strada giusta. Semplicemente, noi, salivamo, seguendo smunti percorsi ai limiti dell’invisibile, affidandoci fiduciosi ad essi.
Fu una scalata solitaria, la mia, ché m’ero diviso dal resto del gruppo, intenzionato a provare un percorso piuttosto che un altro. L’aria rarefatta mise a dura prova le mie abitudini da fumatore, e le soste che mi concedevo avevano il dono dell’introspezione. Di fronte a cotanta natura, ero completamente solo, e in silenzio, meditavo, blandamente. Non sapevo, a un certo punto, quanto tempo avevo già impiegato, e quanto ancora ne rimaneva, proseguivo e basta, mosso solo dalla mia instancabile curiosità. A far due conti dopo, sarà passata di certo più di un’ora. Chissà. Sta di fatto che, scala scala, alla fine giunsi in un’ampia vallata, con i monti russi sullo sfondo, e il misterioso monastero poco più giù. Un’emozione dura a smaltire, a tutt’oggi.
Non ci fu data la possibilità di accedere a tutte le aree del monastero, causa abbigliamento (nel Caucaso, infatti, può capitare spesso che un pantaloncino o delle scarpe aperte, o una gonna, possano limitarvi gli accessi qua e là), ma eravamo così affascinati dalla natura, dallo stupore di come s’era riuscito a portare fin lassù un edificio del genere, dalla semplice idea di essere lì, che gli interni, in sé, passarono facilmente in secondo piano.
Tornammo al villaggio che era già pomeriggio inoltrato, con un’umidità che ci aveva dato un po’ di filo da torcere, e una pioggia che effettuava il suo repentino viavai sulle nostre positive giacche estive. Riprendemmo la strada del ritorno, e nelle nostre teste s’era esaurita l’attesa del “prossimo luogo da visitare”. I pensieri andavano già ai bagagli e alle trafile in aeroporto, percepivamo insomma già la fine del viaggio. In nottata (il nostro aereo partiva di mattina prestissimo), il proprietario di casa si offrì di accompagnarci in aeroporto. Nel tragitto, non fummo capaci di profferire parola, nel mentre il nostro autista ci spiegava cosa stavamo attraversando, e i palazzi che miravamo. Ma noi manco lo ascoltavamo più.
Ciò che ci rese sereni, prima di accucciarci sui nostri sedili, fu il pensare a un nostro prossimo viaggio. “Nepal!”, uscì fuori da una parte, “Mongolia!”, da un’altra. Qualcosa di (sempre più) esotico, insomma, testati come eravamo, che all’unisono eravamo stati capaci di organizzare tutto in breve tempo, e non vedevamo l’ora di rotolarci sull’ennesima, affascinante, sconosciuta rotta.
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