3 Ott 2013

Armenia e Georgia (Orientale) in cinque e quattr’otto

di | postato in: All posts, Armenia_Georgia, Mondo, On the Road | 1.023

Giorno #6_Sevan Lake & Back to Tbilisi.

Desti sul tardi, sul lago Sevan le temperature non ne volevano sapere di rientrare in canoni estivi. Il sole c’era, ma non abbastanza da farci sentire impavidi e immergerci in acqua. Avevamo appuntamento nel pomeriggio con Tygran, che per la situazione jackpot s’era offerto, per quel giorno, di accompagnarci fino alla capitale georgiana (!). E noi, prontamente, non sapemmo dire di no.

Non molto distante dal camping, prendendo lo stradone principale, si poteva raggiungere una interessante penisola che dava sul lago, e che ospitava un complesso monastico (tanto per cambiare), il Sevanavank.

In quel luogo, San Mesrop Mashtots ebbe una visione di 12 personaggi che attraversavano il lago a piedi, indicandogli il luogo in cui fondare una chiesa. Dal punto più alto della penisola, comunque, è possibile godere di una splendida vista sul lago.

Pranzettino veloce e giunse Tygran, con il quale ci avviamo a lasciare l’Armenia tutta. Il viaggio prevedeva un bel po’ di chilometri, e Tygran pensò bene di fermarsi anche alla basilica Haghartsin, un nome che letteralmente significa “Danza delle Aquile”, e che, a giudicare dall’altura su cui sorge, non poteva essere chiamato diversamente. Un giro veloce, tra sparuti gruppi di turisti, e più di una sposa che aveva scelto il luogo come location per le proprie foto.

Ci avviammo dunque verso il confine, e dal lago Sevan la frontiera era quella nei pressi di Sadakhlo, una sorta di baricentro dell’intero Caucaso, a due passi dal territorio georgiano, quello armeno e quello azero. La strada serpeggiava zigzagando su una comoda vallata. Su entrambi i lati, nei tornanti, svettavano massi in verticale dipinti con i colori della bandiera armena. Eravamo ai confini con l’Azerbaijan, e già a uno sguardo alla cartina si capisce che la situazione, da quelle parti, è un po’ confusa. Armenia e Azerbaijan non sono in ottimi rapporti, proprio per questioni territoriali. Quel tratto di strada attraversa chiazze di Terra di Nessuno, e Tygran ci spiegava che in realtà, in passato, la strada tagliava la vallata in carreggiate rettilinee, ma poi le tensioni tra i due Paesi hanno costretto a deviare il percorso su per i monti circostanti, dal momento che si correva addirittura il rischio di essere sparati a vista.

Una storia che non è che ci aveva proprio rasserenati, ma di lì a breve raggiungemmo comunque il confine georgiano, e dopo poco più di un’altra ora di auto, Tygran ci lasciò proprio sotto l’appartamento che ci avrebbe ospitato, per gli ultimi tre giorni.

Giorno #7_A day in Tbilisi

Tbilisi non ci era del tutto estranea, il primo giorno di viaggio ci aveva già dato modo di farci un’idea della città. E il giorno 7 era tutto dedicato a lei. Ritornammo, di buon’ora, sull’arteria principale della città nuova, Rustaveli, un chilometro e mezzo fiancheggiato da tanto verde, e da raffinati ed importanti edifici, come l’Accademia delle Scienze, il Teatro dell’Opera, la Chiesa di Kashveti o il Palazzo del Parlamento. L’intero viale è inoltre ornato di statue non più alte di una quarantina di centimetri, tutte raffiguranti omini intenti in attività artistiche o artigianali, a mostrar fieri l’animo della nazione.

Giunti in Piazza della Libertà, svoltando sulla sinistra, ci si addentra nella città vecchia di Tbilisi, un groviglio inestricato di viuzze dissestate, case in malora e cortili nascosti. In generale, nessuna delle strade vi saprà accogliere o attirare, all’ingresso, per il loro aspetto, ma se siete curiosi a sufficienza potreste addentrarvi e perdervi in ognuno di loro. Questa zona, appena dietro Piazza della Libertà, fu in realtà completamente distrutta dall’invasione dei persiani nel 1795. Non troverete palazzi eccessivamente vecchi, bensì principalmente case dello scorso secolo, molte delle quali completamente fatiscenti o in demolizione. La sensazione che si ha, balzando dalla zona nuova a quella vecchia, è che la Georgia pare voglia mostrarsi più bella all’Europa, e scrollarsi di dosso ciò che potrebbe apparire esteticamente brutto.

Di ritorno verso Rustaveli, facemmo sosta per un pranzo veloce, con un tipico khachapuri al formaggio, e ci concedemmo il primo bicchiere di vino georgiano. Bacchico, divino. M’ero ripromesso di presentare qui alcuni tipi di vino tra quelli che più mi sarei ritrovato a gradire, ma c’è da dire che davvero, in Georgia, pare proprio non sappiano accostare la parola vino all’aggettivo cattivo (per il vino georgiano, rimandiamo al giorno 8).

Satolli e soddisfatti, raggiungemmo poi la Fortezza di Narikala, attraversando il fiume della città, il Mtkvari, sul Ponte della Pace, un’elegante passerella pedonale in vetro e acciaio, progettata dall’architetto italiano Michele De Lucchi e inaugurata nel 2010. Il ponte è stato ribattezzato dai giovani di Tbilisi “Always”, dal nome di una nota marca di assorbenti esterni, per la sua curiosa sinuosità…

Giunti all’altra sponda, una mini funivia ci ha portati dritti sulla fortezza. Da quell’arroccamento si può raggiungere anche la statua che troneggia sulla città, raffigurante una donna (la Georgia stessa) con un bicchiere di vino nella mano sinistra, e una spada in quella destra, ovverosia: massima accoglienza per gli amici, nessuna pietà per i nemici.

Da quella sommità, si può ammirare l’intera capitale georgiana. La fortezza, un tempo cittadella persiana, risale al IV secolo. Qualche arrampicata sul muro di cinta, poi all’interno chiese, chiese e ancora chiese. Ne avevamo decisamente abbastanza!

In serata, pensammo (bene) di proseguire gli assaggi nella città vecchia, dove avevamo notato, nella nostra passeggiata diurna, un certo agglomerato di localini, specie a Erekle II, Sharden e Bambis rigi, o nei dintorni di Akhvlediani. Le atmosfere passano dal turistico al tipico/locale, c’è tanta musica dal vivo, anche in settimana, e un viavai deciso, ma mai eccessivo.

Nella stessa serata, andammo pure a caccia di tassisti. Tygran ci mancava già tanto, ma adesso toccava ricreare una situazione jackpot con un georgiano. Calcolati gli itinerari dei giorni a venire (che saranno: Davit Gareja, nel sud-est, Sighnaghi, la regione dei vini, e Kazbegi, ai confini con la Russia), e fatti calcoli su quanto avevamo intenzione di spendere, partì la nostra spedizione, a trattare con decine di autisti. Tra questi, quello che ci ispirò più fiducia, e che soprattutto ci propose il prezzo più conveniente, fu Vano, un simpaticissimo tassista sulla quarantina di una stazza spropositata, ma che per tutto il resto del viaggio s’è dimostrato più di un accompagnatore. Anche lui, come Tygran, mi ha dato il permesso di lasciar qui il suo contatto telefonico: +995 558 007 020. Anche lui, come Tygran, parla soltanto russo e georgiano, ma qui ribadisco che la loro pazienza e il loro intuito non dovrebbero causare eccessivi problemi di comprensione.

“Fittato” il tassista, non vedevamo l’ora di perderci nella verde Georgia. Ed è esattamente ciò che capiterà.

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