Armenia e Georgia (Orientale) in cinque e quattr’otto

Giorno #4_…and till the End of the Land.

Giunti al giorno 4, avevamo ufficialmente deciso di scorrazzare per tutta l’Armenia quanto più potevamo. Levon, il cugino di Maria, ci aveva consigliato di contattare un suo amico tassista, Tygran, che avrebbe potuto accompagnarci al sito più distante di tutto il viaggio, ai confini con l’Iran: la fiabesca Gola del Vorotan, che ospita il complesso monastico di Tatev.

Ci accordammo con Tygran il giorno prima, pattuimmo il prezzo e l’orario di partenza. Tygran ci consigliò vivamente di destarci quanto prima, che non ce ne saremmo pentiti. I circa 300 km che distanziavano Yerevan da Tatev pullulavano di paesaggi mozzafiato, e siti remoti dimenticati dal mondo, un percorso che andava a strozzarsi nel collo dell’imbuto armeno, terreno battuto solo da impavidi viaggiatori, o da chi è intenzionato a raggiungere l’Iran via terra. E il nostro autista (subito di fiducia) ci stava garantendo soste uniche lungo la strada, rivelatesi poi a dir poco memorabili.

Appuntamento sotto casa, dunque, alle 6.30 (!). Tygran ci raggiunse con un’auto vecchia d’almeno vent’anni, ma che tutto sommato ispirava una certa sicurezza, rispetto alle vetture che si vedevano in giro (e al loro stato). Tygran, un giovane-uomo sulla cinquantina portati bene, o sulla quarantina già coi segni della terza età, si presentò con un’aria pacata e un sorriso protettivo, impostato in un silenzio educato, pronto ad esaudire ogni nostro desiderio turistico. Nacque, tra noi e lui, una sinergia immediata e un’empatia perfetta, al punto da convincerci ad affidarci a lui per il resto della nostra permanenza armena (lo stesso Tygran mi ha autorizzato a lasciare il suo contatto telefonico; nel caso siate seriamente intenzionati a visitare l’Armenia, potrete fidarvi: +374 93 59 18 42. Unico neo: Tygran non parla altro che armeno, e un russo prossimo al dialettale. Ma non sono da sottovalutare disegnini a tema o maccheroniche indicazioni su una mappa. La sua disponibilità e un pizzico – vostro – di fantasia potranno garantirvi comunque un discreto successo).

Tatev, dunque, ma non trascorse mezz’ora che ci fu già la prima sosta: Khor Virap. Scenario da cartolina, ai piedi dell’Ararat, il tutto immerso nella pace di un’alba suggestiva.

Si racconta che il re pagano Tiridate III imprigionò in un pozzo della zona San Gregorio Illuminatore, e alcune donne cristiane gli portavano cibo di nascosto. Quando il re impazzì (oppure, secondo una leggenda popolare, gli crebbe una testa di maiale), fu miracolosamente guarito da San Gregorio.

Tornati in macchina, ripartimmo per il nostro lungo viaggio, e Tygran pensò di mettere su la sua musica preferita: Arno Babajainian, Eros Ramazzotti, Andrea Bocelli, e tutto ciò che era notoriamente e internazionalmente armeno (ma fino ad allora, a mia insaputa), ossia Charles Aznavour (con l’immancabile Bohéme), e Cher, con tutte le collaborazioni che è stata capace di fare negli ultimi vent’anni. Non sapevo, insomma, che entrambi avessero origini armene, e da quelle parti non si perde orgogliosa occasione per ribadirlo. A pensarci bene, rifacimenti a parte, il naso poteva essere un evidente segnale.

La seconda tappa giunse dopo circa un’ora di tragitto, spesa a mirare pendii d’un pastello surreale, pronti a trasformarsi, da uno sbalorditivo impatto visivo, ad almeno altre quattro espressioni sensoriali, o in serpentine scavate in pseudo-canyon di un’altezza di almeno quindici metri, completamente invas(at)i (noi) dalla natura, e da un caratteristico color porpora della roccia viva. Il luogo in questione è Novarank, tra i pochi monasteri accessibili con l’auto, ma completamente sperduto tra le alture armene.

Anche Novarank vanta d’aver ospitato un pezzo della Vera Croce, tra quelli addirittura macchiati del sangue di Cristo (acquistato poi da un misterioso sconosciuto, si dice). Caratteristica della principale Chiesa di Surp Astvatsatsin è una scala in pietra esterna, stretta e decisamente pericolosa, unico accesso alla cupola. Noi, ovviamente, non ci siamo fatti spaventare, e abbiamo pure le prove:

Non mancava molto per raggiungere Tatev, i paesaggi alternavano alture a territori prossimi al deserto, i villaggi erano sempre più distanti, e sempre più villaggi, e cominciarono anche a comparire autocarri con targhe in caratteri farsi. Su uno stradone rettilineo, Tygran cominciò diverse volte a rallentare, per poi a un certo punto fermarsi all’ingresso di una stradina sterrata, semi-invisibile e decisamente anonima. Rifletté qualche secondo, poi con decisione la imboccò. Gli ammortizzatori ebbero un bel po’ da fare per una decina di minuti, la vettura ci cullò e ci dondolò, sballottata da buche prossime a crateri, fino a raggiungere uno spiazzo desolato dalla suggestione latente.

Tygran, che più volte vestiva anche i panni spontanei della guida paterna, ci spiegava ciò che si presentava ai nostri increduli occhi: 220 blocchi di basalto verticali alti fino a tre metri, disposti in circoli o in ampie file, alcuni dei quali presentavano fori allineati con le stelle. Tutto intorno, disseminato di tombe risalenti al 3000 a.C. «Il sito è più antico di Stonehenge!», precisava con orgoglio Tygran, «risale almeno al 7000 a.C.». Si trattava del sito di Zorats Karer (letteralmente, “Pietre Parlanti”), nominato ufficialmente Osservatorio Astronomico non più di dieci anni fa, ma a dire il vero non sono riuscito a confermare la datazione fornitaci da Tygran.

E finalmente, dopo ore di viaggio, raggiungemmo Tatev. O meglio, raggiungemmo il villaggio di Halizor, da dove parte la Wing of Tatev, la funivia aerea terminata nel 2010, entrata nel Guinness dei Primati per essere la più lunga del mondo (5,7 Km!). Il cielo grigio che s’imponeva, tetro, sulla Gola del Vorotan, immergeva il nostro tragitto prossimo in un’atmosfera terrificante. Dalla stazione di Halizor, le cabine sospese a 500 metri sul vuoto per circa 15 minuti, a 30 km/h, davano l’impressione di dover affrontare il quarto d’ora più eterno della nostra vita. Prima di chiuderci in quella scatola di vetro (sicuramente) claustrofobica, miravamo gli impavidi prima di noi, in silenzio, per allentare un principio d’ansia incontrollato.

Ma la stessa ansia si tramutava repentina in adrenalina, che altrimenti non poteva essere: non potevamo assolutamente permetterci di limitarci, giunti fin lì. Superata la Gola, ci apparve il complesso monastico, con edifici e chiese del IX secolo. Un complesso di tutto rispetto, tra i più affascinanti di tutto il viaggio. Tutto toccava, lassù, io addirittura cominciai a perdermi osservando le pietre delle strutture. Mi venne da ipotizzarne la storia, l’estrazione, il taglio, il trasporto, l’incastro, l’assemblaggio, la possibile incisione. Pietra a pietra.

Le attività dei monaci portavano avanti tradizioni ancestrali, che pareva che il tempo, per loro, e per noi di passaggio, si fosse fermato. Il complesso, pure, manteneva intatto ciò che aveva intenzione di essere alla sua costruzione, un centro religioso, ma pure culturale, e di salvaguardia di un patrimonio artistico, contro i continui attacchi dalle svariate orde che hanno messo, nei secoli, a ferro e a fuoco quel territorio.

Un frantoio da un lato, una biblioteca dall’altro, inframezzati dalle celle dei monaci, da una cappella, da affreschi sbiaditi e da elaborate incisioni. Al centro del cortile, poi, una colonna particolare, ottagonale e alta otto metri, sormontata da una khatchkar, che aveva la capacità di prevedere, vibrando, l’attività sismica della zona, o l’approcciarsi degli zoccoli dei cavalli nemici.

Uscimmo dal complesso dopo circa un’ora e mezza, e nel frattempo Tygran ci aveva raggiunti in macchina, attraversando tutta la vallata. Il viaggio di ritorno fu un po’ più lento, ma piacevole, con il sole che ci regalava giochi di luce da tramonto mai immaginati prima.

Stremati, rientrammo a Yerevan. Salutammo Tygran, previo accordo per il giorno seguente (in serata, avevamo intenzione di raggiungere il lago Sevan, prima di riprendere la strada per la Georgia). Poco più di mezz’ora, e avremmo dovuto raggiungere Levon e la sua famiglia, che ci attendevano per cena. Una cena tipica armena!, e di tutto rispetto!

Dal baklava armeno al gata, simile a dolcini da caffè, passando per deliziosi succhi di frutta – rigorosamente fatti in casa, i piroshki, e l’inimitabile cognac armeno, diciamo che non tornavo così pieno a casa dai tempi dell’ultimo cenone di capodanno in famiglia.

L’ospitalità degli armeni è pari pari a ciò che in genere si dice di loro, ovunque nel mondo, ma in questa occasione non è mancata, ovviamente, la tensione turca, dovuta anche all’impossibilità di Gürkan di interagire propriamente, in senso strettamente linguistico. Si fondevano, ancora, fraintesi e affettazione, che complicavano ancora di più la situazione. E poi, gentili diatribe anche sul cibo: «Assaggiate questo, il baklava!, questo è tipico armeno!», «Beh, no, in realtà questo è turco», «…è turco? Oh! Ne sei sicuro? E allora… questa è la versione armena!», «già, il baklava turco non è proprio così», «ah, sì? E come sarebbe, allora? Sentiamo…», con toni psicosomatici degni di uno studio scientifico, che avrebbe un titolo tipo “Sulla Formalità Imposta(ta)”.

Satollo come un pesce palla, nel breve tragitto che divideva casa di Levon dal nostro appartamento, non fantasticavo altro che un letto, e una sana dormita, per recuperare le forze per il resto del viaggio…

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