Armenia e Georgia (Orientale) in cinque e quattr’otto

GIORNO #3_Right Outside Yerevan.

Il terzo giorno di viaggio, ci ha visti già intenzionati a scoprire meglio il resto del Paese. In tutta onestà, sia la Georgia che l’Armenia, offrono solo timidi sprazzi di vero e proprio “turismo”, con siti che in genere si limitano ad aree più che circoscritte. Pare che solo i vari monasteri e i templi sparsi per tutt’e due i Paesi abbiano consentito poi di motivare le mobilitazioni di massa verso zone più remote del Caucaso. Sono indubbiamente loro soltanto le attrattive principali, ma non vi scoraggiate: il solo tragitto da compiere per raggiungerli, uno a uno, varrà tutta l’esperienza, e per la loro posizione decisamente poco comoda, sperduti come sono tra rocce e pseudo-deserti, darà brio a chi ama apprezzare la natura, con un pizzico d’avventura. Inoltre, pare che i tanti monasteri siano posizionati in modo da far compiere un sacrificio pellegrino a chi è realmente intenzionato a raggiungerli, qualunque sia la ragione. Ci sono, insomma, percorsi e tragitti, in alcuni angoli del Caucaso, che non sono proprio per tutti. Only the brave.

C’è inoltre da dire che, per scorrazzare comodamente in giro per l’Armenia, così come per la Georgia, in realtà la soluzione migliore è “fittarsi un tassista”. Per più di una ragione: economicamente, potete trattare il prezzo, facendovi magari prima due calcoli con i prezzi dei trasporti. In genere i tassisti, se vi vedono preparati (e pronti a “disprezzare per voler comprare”), vi vengono incontro, e vi offrono possibilità abbordabili; in più, ci guadagnate sicuramente in comodità, anche per una questione di accessibilità a siti più remoti che sapranno consigliarvi loro, e che voi non avete avuto modo di leggere su nessuna guida e manco ne immaginavate l’esistenza; ultimo ma non ultimo, se il tassista vi ispira fiducia e se gli starete simpatici, potrete proporgli (o sarà lui stesso a proporsi) di portarvi in giro anche nei giorni a seguire, e se siete fortunati sarà capace di organizzarvi itinerari al di sopra delle vostre aspettative. Noi l’abbiamo battezzata “situazione jackpot”, sia per noi che per i due tassisti dei due Paesi. Per noi, che in pochi giorni siamo riusciti ad arrivare ovunque; per loro, che in pochi giorni hanno portato a casa il mensile di un ingegnere.

Ma la situazione jackpot sì intesa è arrivata solo il quarto giorno. Vedremo meglio a tempo debito. Tornando al nostro Giorno #3, nostro intento era quello di raggiungere quattro siti poco distanti da Yerevan. Il primo era Echmiadzin, meglio noto come il Vaticano Armeno, a circa 21 km a est di Yerevan.

Echmiadzin ha per gli armeni un’enorme importanza, e nella Santa Sede racchiude un tesoro raccolto nell’arco di 1700 anni. Le 1500 AMD (2,78 euro) sono ben spese per accedere alla sala del tesoro, dove potete ammirare, tra le varie reliquie e reliquiari a forma di mano, contenenti le ceneri dei santi, la Lancia Sacra (Surp Geghard), l’arma usata dal legionario Longino per trafiggere il costato di Cristo mentre era ancora inchiodato alla croce (per vedere se la morte era già sopraggiunta), o pezzi della Santa Croce e dell’Arca di Noè.

Senza perdere eccessivo tempo, riprendiamo la strada per Yerevan, ma facciamo sosta dopo circa 5 km, sullo stradone principale, dove ci sono le rovine della Cattedrale di Zvartnots (ingresso AMD 700 – 1,30 euro; dalle 10 alle 17), un tempo definita tra le chiese più belle al mondo, purtroppo distrutta da un terremoto nel 930.

Alle spalle delle rovine, un piccolo museo, dove è presente anche un modellino per avere un’idea di come doveva essere la cattedrale.

Da Zvartnots siamo tornati a Yerevan, ma con lo stesso taxi siamo usciti esattamente dal lato opposto della città, per raggiungere il Tempio di Garni e il Monastero di Geghard. Il percorso è in salita, e in pochi minuti ci siamo ritrovati completamente inghiottiti dalle alture armene, con strade a strapiombo sulla valle che ospita la capitale.

Giunti al tempio ellenico di Garni, ci siamo ritrovati di fronte a un breve sentiero, delimitato da casse che trasmettevano una musica di sottofondo a dire il vero ben scelta (scettico, come sono, su certi giochetti per turisti), una ideale colonna sonora per accompagnare gli occhi fino all’edificio, nel bel mezzo del nulla, circondato da una gioiosa giogaia color pastello.

Inoltre, all’interno dell’edificio, a intervalli regolari, venivano proposti dei canti a cappella che non stonavano affatto con l’atmosfera, ma che anzi avevano il dono di arricchirla.

A soli 9 km da Garni c’è invece il complesso monastico di Geghard, che prende il nome della lancia di Longino di cui sopra. Nel complesso, si trovano chiese rupestri del VII secolo ed altri edifici del XIII secolo, oltre a una vera e propria collezione di kachkar, le tipiche croci in pietra dell’Armenia, finemente scolpite. Colpisce, in questo complesso, la sontuosa architettura, con soffitti intagliati a nove archi e cappelle egregiamente scolpite nella roccia viva.

La notte calò sulla vivace vita notturna di Yerevan, con tanta gente in giro che si godeva la quiete della città. Noi incontrammo la famiglia al completo dei parenti di Maria, con i quali abbiamo preso un tranquillo tè.

Per poter comunicare, tirai fuori tutto il mio russo, trascinato da reminiscenze universitarie arrugginite e datate. Il risultato fu piuttosto scarno ed elementare, ma mi consentì di raggiungere livelli decenti di comunicazione. Tra Gürkan e i – giovani – componenti della famiglia, invece, uno stentato inglese lasciò spazio a fraintendimenti e concetti espressi male, che non davano adito, alla volontà di interagire senza alcun compromesso, di espletarsi pienamente. Era inutile. Anche la più giovane delle figlie, la più lontana dalla storia, non riusciva in nessun modo a staccarsi dal preconcetto. La stessa Maria mi raccontava di quando, appena giunta a Yerevan, ha ricevuto una chiamata dai familiari, e un invito a cena.

– Vieni a cena da noi, Maria!

– Certo, ma non sono sola!

– Con chi sei?

– Con due amici!

– E porta anche loro! Chi sono?

– Uno è italiano, l’altro è turco.

[Gelo].

– Zia? Pronto? Zia, mi senti? Zia!…

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