Un’italiana a Toronto

postato in: All posts, Mondo, Storytelling | 297

Ho trascorso gran parte del mese di settembre a Toronto, per una lunga e tanto attesa rimpatriata con due amiche canadesi, entrambe stabili là. Quasi tre settimane e due amiche locali sono una buona combinazione per conoscere una città al meglio, per viverla, non solo visitarla. Vorrei quindi farvi vedere Toronto così come l’ho vissuta, un po’ meno da turista, un po’ più abitante, spero!

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Visitate Toronto nella mezza stagione, maggio inoltrato o settembre, e godetevi una città che nella bella stagione si risveglia e i cui abitanti si impegnano attivamente a sfruttare ogni attimo di sole, memori del lungo inverno appena passato. Toronto è una città perfetta per camminare, dove basta girare angolo per passare da una strada vivace a una via residenziale, con file di case a due piani munite di giardino e veranda. Se nel vagare per queste vie più tranquille incrocerete un torontoniano o due, o dieci, seduti in veranda a guardare la vita scorrere, fategli un cenno, vi risponderà in maniera amichevole.

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Per un tour del genere consiglio Little Portugal, una zona semi-residenziale tra Dundas Street West e College Street con un’alta concentrazione di, indovinate un po’, immigrati portoghesi e brasiliani. Se tutto il camminare e ammirare casette vi strema, fermatevi per uno sfizioso pasteis de nata da Nova Era Bakery, pasticceria frequentata da locali su Dundas Street West. Oppure ricaricatevi con un caffè freddo takeaway da Tampered Press o Full of Beans, entrambe caffetterie artigianali provate personalmente più di una volta e meritevoli di una visita. The Tampered Press inoltre si affaccia su Trinity Bellwoods Park, ideale se volete introdurre un po’ di verde nella vostra passeggiate, o semplicemente per una pausa sull’erba.

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Per un cambio di scenario, dirigetevi a est verso Downtown. A seconda del vostro livello di stanchezza potete raggiungere il centro a piedi o con uno street car, mezzi di trasporto di superficie che assomigliano ai nostri tram; se invece avete ancora voglia di camminare, scendete verso sud su Ossington Avenue e imboccate poi Queen Street e osservate come i negozietti indipendenti di designer canadesi e le caffetterie hipster piano piano lasciano spazio a stabilimenti più commerciali e l’aspetto della città cambia.

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Downtown e il Financial District mostrano una faccia totalmente diversa di Toronto: edifici imponenti, uffici di vetro e cemento e uomini in carriera in giacca e cravatta che camminano frettolosi con una tazza di caffè Starbucks o Tim Horton, il suo cugino canadese. Qui potete ammirare anche la parte nuova della città, grattacieli scintillanti appena costruiti, pieni di uffici o appartamenti moderni, particolarmente scenografica la notte, quando la folla di lavoratori si è dileguata e le strade sono più tranquille.

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Centro nevralgico per turisti è Nathan Phillips Square, sede del vecchio municipio di Toronto, uno dei pochi edifici “antichi” del centro, e del nuovo municipio. La piazza ospita anche il celebre Toronto Sign, installato in occasione dei PanAmerican Games del 2015. L’insegna è particolarmente spettacolare di notte, quando le diverse lettere si illuminano di diversi colori e si riflettono nella fontana di fronte ad essa.

Altro centro nevralgico di Downtown è Dundas Square, considerata la Times Square di Toronto in virtù degli scenografici cartelloni pubblicitari che illuminano a giorno la piazza.

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Downtown è anche sede della CN Tower: il suo profilo particolare domina la città ed è visibile da ogni angolo di Toronto. È possibile salire sulla CN Tower e ammirare la vista sulla città da 342m di altezza, godersi un brivido freddo camminando sul pavimento di vetro e, per i più spericolati, camminare sull’esterno della torre, con tutte le misure di sicurezza e le imbragature del caso. Detto ciò, io questa esperienza non ve la consiglierei perché, a mio parere, la vista migliore di Toronto è quella che include anche la CN Tower nello skyline circostante. Per una vista spettacolare, dunque, visitate Toronto Islands.

Le Toronto Islands sono una manciata di isolette situate davanti alla città sulla terraferma e raggiungibili in dieci minuti di traghetto. Il servizio di spostamento è frequente, circa un traghetto ogni 20 minuti, e si parte dal Jack Layton Ferry Terminal, che è a sua volta a dieci minuti da Toronto Downtown, quindi facilmente raggiungibile con qualsiasi mezzo di trasporto. Noleggiate biciclette o tandem, se siete ciclisti particolarmente abili e pedalate pigramente da un’isoletta all’altra, tutte collegate da ponticelli.

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Le isole non sono solamente un’attrazione turistica ma anche un centro abitato: sulla lingua orientale dell’isola centrale potrete infatti ammirare un villaggetto di circa 300 case, una più incantevole dell’altra. Pedalate piano tra il reticolato di viuzze, fermatevi a scattare qualche foto alle case che vi colpiscono di più, con discrezione, e sognate per un attimo di vivere anche voi lì, svegliandovi la mattina con una vista sul lago, un orto nel giardino che dovrete difendere da scoiattoli e altri animaletti, e una veranda su cui bere il vostro caffè. Almeno, io ho fatto così, poi mi sono risvegliata dai miei sogni ad occhi aperti pensando all’inverno canadese passato sulla riva di un’isola, una prospettiva non altrettanto idilliaca. Accontentavi dunque del vostro stato di visitatore e ammirate quella famosa vista dell’intero skyline di Toronto, CN Tower inclusa.

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Vi suggerisco poi di rilassarvi dalla vostra pedalata su una delle tante spiaggette che guardano verso l’infinito blu che è il Lake Ontario, così vasto che sembra un mare. Altre attività più turistiche delle isole sono con un piccolo parco divertimenti per bambini, parco giochi e un paio di chioschi che vendono pizza al trancio e birre, rigorosamente da consumarsi nei licensed patio. C’è persino un faro datato 1809 e, apparentemente, infestato dal fantasma del suo primo guardiano.

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toronto-18Un’esperienza canadese che vi esorto a non perdervi assolutamente è una partita di baseball dei Toronto Blue Jays o, amichevolmente, “Jays”. Non preoccupatevi se non conoscete le regole del gioco, vi assicuro che neanche la più totale ignoranza vi impedirà di godervi l’atmosfera festosa della partita: assorbite l’atmosfera patriottica al momento degli inni; ingozzatevi di hot dog e popcorn e innaffiate tutto con birra in lattina gigante; comprate un qualsiasi indumento targato Blue Jays e indossatelo per confondervi meglio tra i tifosi; seguite le coreografie delle cheerleader, che sono molto più semplici di quanto vi aspettiate; improvvisate un balletto tutto vostro al ritmo delle walk-up songs dei battitori, ovvero le canzoni che i giocatori stessi scelgono come “stacchetto” che li preannuncia. Quando uscirete dal Rogers Centre, il baseball sarà il vostro nuovo sport preferito.

Toronto meriterebbe un capitolo a parte per i ristoranti: sebbene non abbia mai mangiato nulla di tipicamente canadese, ogni pasto consumato è stato delizioso. A detta della mia amica canadese, è pieno di buongustai perché per metà dell’anno non possono fare altro che rimanere in luoghi chiusi e mangiare. Io posso convenire sul fatto che i canadesi sanno mangiare e mi limiterò a suggerirvi un paio di posti testati personalmente.

Bent su Dundas Street, asian fusion  leggermente costoso ma divino; Foxley su Ossington, che dall’esterno sembra un pub ma invece serve piatti di ispirazione asiatica da dividere; Antler, specializzato in selvaggina, vi consiglio però di prenotare perché è molto richiesto; Urban Herbivore a Kensington Market, per un’insalatona vegana e Cafè Pamenar di fronte per un ricco brownie al cioccolato, che sarete in credito di un bel po’ di calorie; Summer’s a Yorkville, per un gelato gigante ai gusti fantasiosi di S’mores, burro pecan e pasta di biscotto, gustato seduti nella graziosa piazzetta Village of Yorkville Park.

Visitate Toronto ma soprattutto vivetela!

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