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Day_9: Il fiordo dell’est prescelto fu quello che ospitava la simpatica cittadina Seyðisfjörður, un agglomerato bohémien e sui generis invaso negli anni da artisti di varia natura ed estrazione sociale. Giunti in serata, contattammo i pochi ostelli presenti in paese, e trovammo una camera presso un Hostelling International, una costruzione in legno riadattata a ostello pari pari sull’estremità del fiordo, con una vista più o meno così:
Fu una sorpresa anche scoprire l’Hostelling International, una sorta di federazione di associazioni in oltre 80 paesi, con circa 4.000 membri in giro per il mondo. HI lavora a stretto contatto con l’UNESCO e l’UNWTO (l’Organizzazione Mondiale del Turismo), e promuove in particolar modo uno stile di vita eco-sostenibile e nel totale rispetto della natura (qui il sito: http://hafaldan.is/ ). Fu particolarmente affascinante il divieto assoluto di “far rumore”, che in fondo il rumore non è altro che inquinamento acustico. Ignari di quanto questi matti svitati rispettassero le ferree regole dell’HI, giungemmo fragorosi nella dining room, e cominciammo a riversare stoviglie e cibo sul tavolo al centro della sala. Non ci eravamo accorti in sostanza che nella stessa sala vi erano almeno cinque persone (!) sedute camaleonticamente sui sofà intenti in una lettura afona di moto e d’apparato respiratorio. Provammo alla meno peggio di adattarci alla situazione, tirammo fuori i nostri libri e ci godemmo una lettura in riva al fiordo.
L’Est d’Islanda non concede particolari aree di interesse, e inoltre se ci arrivi dai frastagliati Westfjords e dal mutevole e freddo nord, tutto assume un aspetto completamente differente, con strade completamente asfaltate e prevalentemente rettilinee e gentili pendii che accompagnano la tua più che serena passeggiata. Con queste premesse decidemmo di intraprendere con estrema seraficità il dolce sentiero fino a sud, inseguendo il sogno degli ultimi avamposti che attendevano di essere visitati.
Colpirono, comunque, ore ed ore di tragitto inghiottiti dalla natura, dove solo di rado si presentavano ai nostri occhi emaciati paesini che non contavano più di 15-16 anime, alle volte. È affascinante quanto però gli stessi agglomerati siano perfettamente organizzati a far fronte ad ogni evenienza: non mancano mai, ad esempio, biblioteche o strutture per l’infanzia, al di là del numero effettivo di abitanti. Chapeau, Mrs. Iceland.
La corsa giunse fino a Höfn, prima di riprendere fino alla capitale Reykjavik. In sostanza, avendo un appartamento fittato in città, preferimmo, dal giorno 10 in poi, tornare a Reykjavik e completare le escursioni che mancavano in giornata, cercando di riprendere gradualmente un briciolo di modernità.
Day_10: «Certe cose dovrebbero rimanere solo nella nostra immaginazione!», è stata l’espressione che ha caratterizzato il nostro decimo giorno di viaggio. Le sorprese, in pratica, non erano ancora finite, e potrebbe capitare anche a voi di affermare una frase simile di fronte allo spettacolo innaturale di Jökursarlón:
Jökursarlón è il più grande e conosciuto lago di origine glaciale d’Islanda, ai piedi del ghiacciaio Vatnajökull, la cappa di ghiaccio più grande d’Europa. Una lingua di tale ghiacciaio rilascia in continuazione iceberg a causa del suo scioglimento precoce, i quali s’ammassano in un’area al centro del lago e cominciano a danzare, scontrandosi e frantumandosi prima di trovare il proprio sbocco verso il mare aperto.
Caratteristica speciale e tutta islandese sono i colori di tale meraviglia della natura: i blocchi infatti alternano il bianco al turchese e al blu profondo, con diffuse venature di nero e di giallo. Ciò è dovuto alla inimmaginabile presenza di vulcani ancora ampiamente attivi tappati dal ghiacciaio, le cui espulsioni di lava, cenere e zolfo, forniscono ognuno una sfumatura differente, generando uno scenario fuori da qualsiasi tua possibile sfera mentale immaginativa.
Dal lago costeggiammo poi le spiagge nere del sud d’Islanda, un’ultima sosta a Kirkjubaejarklastur per una breve escursione tra ruscelli e cascate, poi rotta per casa a Reykjavik, senza sottovalutare brevissime tappe lungo il tragitto, come quella effettuata nella piccola e affascinante Vik, un luogo che pare essere il più esposto ai venti del nord, e che ospita su una spiaggetta i faraglioni scandinavi:
Day_11: Il giorno 11 e 12 furono piuttosto pigri; la modernità ebbe subito la meglio sulle nostre presunte ambizioni nomadi, e ci svegliammo con una certa calma, consapevoli del fatto che le prossime avventure sarebbero state appena appena fuori porta. Il sole di novembre faceva già il suo dovere annunciando l’imminente arrivo del temibile inverno islandese, balzando ad est a partire dalle 11 del mattino e senza mai giungere pienamente in alto nel cielo. Un enorme pallone giallo che attraversava l’orizzonte orizzontalmente, in pratica.
Con tali premesse riprendemmo la nostra Kangoo e ci addentrammo nelle lande desolate verso Geysir, la località che ospitava i geyser islandesi e da cui gli stessi geyser prendevano il nome (dal verbo islandese gjòsa che vuol dire “eruttare, emettere a fiotti”). Il Grande Geysir d’Islanda è il più antico tra quelli conosciuti, attivo da circa 10.000 anni (!).
Il sito in tutta onestà mostrava i segni vandali del turismo: autobus in continuo arrivo e partenza, e prezzi sparati alle stelle anche per un semplice cappuccino, ben lontano insomma dalla ruvidezza e la spontaneità che ci aveva accompagnato negli ultimi 2.000 km di tragitto fino ad allora. Per tale ragione spendemmo nell’area pochissimo tempo, e preferimmo far presto ritorno a Reykjavik.
Di aurora boreale, inoltre, non se ne sentì più parlare. Quella notte soltanto, nei cieli di Reykjavik, sgombri da nuvole minacciose, si intuì un accenno di fasci verdi piuttosto flebili, particolarmente confusi dalle miriadi di luci della città. Ci chiudemmo in casa, e decidemmo l’ultima escursione dell’avventura.
Day_12: Il giorno 12 fu dato spazio a due zone poco distanti dalla capitale: il sito archeologico di Stöng e l’area di Gjáin. Stöng è la ricostruzione di una tipica fattoria vichinga. La ricostruzione avvenne nel 1974 come parte di una celebrazione nazionale del 1100esimo anniversario dal primo insediamento vichingo in Islanda, nell’874. La fattoria originale era stata seppellita dalle ceneri vulcaniche nel 1104, a seguito dell’eruzione del vulcano Hekla.
Mezz’ora di escursionismo estremo, contro freddo e venti forti, e raggiungemmo da Stöng la piccola valle di Gjáin, un microcosmo di cascatelle, laghetti e elementi vulcanici:
Il ritorno verso la città fu piuttosto rapido, e la restituzione della nostra amata Kangoo all’Happy Camper decretò la fine ufficiale della nostra avventura. Ma la nostra permanenza in Islanda non era ancora terminata: restammo sull’isola ancora per circa un mese, in verità in attesa di un possente festival di musica rock ed elettronica, l’Icelandic Airwaves, e prima che giungesse riuscii a trovare un lavoro per qualche settimana in una distilleria di vodka, dove ebbi la possibilità di recuperare almeno in parte le spese del viaggio, oltre ad avere modo di assaggiare i pregiati prodotti locali.
L’arrivo poi del Festival generò un cambio radicale dell’immagine della città: i tranquilli boulevard che percorrevano il centro furono letteralmente invasi da gente proveniente da ogni angolo del pianeta. L’Islanda da Bjork in poi e passando per i Sigur Ròs, ha saputo garantirsi uno spazio d’eccezione in quanto a qualità e avanguardia, specie nel pop elettronico. Da quando Bjork ha abbattuto il muro delle frontiere dell’isola, spopolando in tutto il globo, fare musica in Islanda è una sana ambizione, e si ha la sensazione che tutti sappiano imbracciare uno strumento.
Gruppi come i Low Roar, Samaris o i Mùm si sono accaparrati già schiere multietniche di fan, nonostante la loro giovane età e la loro breve carriera. Il festival, poi, aveva il dono di coinvolgere, oltre alle venue principali, anche numerosissime attività commerciali, che siano negozi di dischi, pub o b&b, che garantivano a chi non si fosse accaparrato il bracciale d’ingresso di assistere comunque a gig di tutto rispetto in maniera gratuita.
Il Festival dava l’impressione di essere l’ultima cavalcata turistica, prima che l’isola si chiudesse nel freddo del proprio inverno, “il duro inverno” come lo chiamano gli stessi abitanti, figurarsi come potevo definirlo io, povero uomo del Mediterraneo!
Pochi giorni dopo la maratona musicale prendemmo il nostro aereo di ritorno per l’Italia. Addio Islanda!, addio tramonti infuocati! Me ne portavo a casa un rapporto totalmente mutato con la natura, una pace interiore che non avevo mai conosciuto prima, la volontà di svincolarmi dalle mie radici cristiane, ora che avevo trovato una nuova divinità da adorare: Madre Natura, quella che in silenzio mi aveva sempre circondato, e che la mia sciatteria non aveva mai perso occasione per sottovalutarla e mancarle brutalmente di rispetto.
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