Utforske Tigerstaden – Guida per innamorarsi di Oslo

postato in: All posts, Europa | 65

Tre giorni a Oslo potrebbero bastare. Almeno a rendersi conto se varrà la pena tornarci o meno. Giugno e Luglio sono i mesi consigliati per via del clima migliore. La città soprannominata Tigerstaden (ovvero “la città tigre”) deve questo nomignolo probabilmente ad una poesia del poeta norvegese Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, in cui si descrive una lotta tra un cavallo e una tigre, quest’ultima simbolo della pericolosità della grande città.

Primo giorno

Immaginate di trovarvi in un giorno di Giugno alle 9:00 in Stazione centrale (Sentralstasjon), andate ad acquistare la Reisekort giornaliera (Scheda giornaliera per i trasporti) e procuratevi una cartina della città nell’ufficio informazioni nella piazza. Grazie a questi due supporti e all’efficienza dei mezzi di trasporto si arriva dappertutto a Oslo. Constatato ciò, uscite dalla stazione e prendete il primo mezzo (c’è il bus 60) utile per Vippetangen, il molo alla base della fortezza dell’Akershuss. Qui salite sul traghetto 93 per fare il giro delle isole nel fiordo di Oslo, le più vicine alla città. Perché? Per potere osservare la città dal mare e averne una visione complessiva. Da qui è visibile quasi l’intero abitato, che si stende da Ovest a Est e che risale dal livello del mare fino ai 469 metri di altezza della collina di Frognerseteren.

Il centro di Oslo, buona parte dei musei da visitare e delle strade in cui passeggiare, sono lì, di fronte. Perciò tornate sulla terraferma, se non dovesse venirvi voglia di fare prima una passeggiata a Hovedøya (traghetto 93), l’isola più grande, dove sono ancora visibili i resti di un antico monastero cistercense.

Per completare la panoramica della città in maniera insolita, prima di andare a spasso per il centro cittadino, sbarcati di nuovo a Vippetangen, tornate alla Stazione centrale, prendete la metro 1 in direzione Frognerseteren e scendete al capolinea.
Da qui, dalla terrazza panoramica del ristorante, ammirate la prospettiva diametralmente opposta a quella vista dal traghetto: la città dall’alto, le colline digradanti, le case man mano più vicine le une alle altre, il porto, la baia e le isole nel fiordo in lontananza a perdita d’occhio. Se presi dall’appetito, fermatevi ad assaggiare la Torta di mele con panna fresca, specialità del luogo.

Dopo la sosta, tornate verso il centro in metro. Potrebbe essere interessante scendere alla fermata metro Holmenkollen per visitare l’impianto di salto con gli sci. Suggestiona alla vista anche solo immaginare quale salto compiano gli atleti. Ripresa la metro verso il centro, scendete alla fermata National Theatret per vederla finalmente dall’interno, la capitale di Norvegia. Orientarsi non dovrebbe essere difficile. Karl Johans Gate taglia la città dal Palazzo reale (uscendo dalla metro, alle spalle) fino alla Stazione centrale. Se aveste fame, cercate in giro dei Polse (hot dog con wurstel avvolto nel bacon e cipolle fritte, tipico di Oslo) da mangiare in strada: quasi tutte le catene di cibo take away ne hanno.
In alternativa, una sosta da Deli De Luca (Karenlyst Allé 12-14) potrà appagare sia la voglia di salato che di dolce. Sarà importante avere la consapevolezza che i prezzi, rispetto all’Italia, sono spropositati.

La passeggiata lungo Karl Johans Gate e le strade che la intersecano sarà piacevole. Dovrebbe essere rimasto tempo sufficiente per andare a passeggiare al Vigelandpark (Zona Frognerparken. Ingresso libero. Raggiungibile a piedi o in Tram n° 12). Il parco è ben tenuto e spazioso; le statue dello scultore norvegese sono lungo l’asse centrale, che parte dall’ingresso principale. Muniti di macchina fotografica, si potrebbero passare ore a fotografare i mille dettagli dei numerosi blocchi di statue. All’interno del parco c’è anche il museo di Vigeland.

Come primo giorno dovrebbe bastare così. Tornate a casa. La luce del sole è ancora brillante.

Secondo giorno

Prima di tutto, assaggiate in una bakery dignitosa una Bolle (brioche locale variamente ripiena). Poi, ripartendo dalla Stazione centrale, andate in direzione Est, prendendo una qualsiasi delle linee metro e scendete a Toyen. Si trova qui il Museo di Munch (13 €, www.munch.museum.no). Visitato il museo, andate in giro a zonzo prima per il parco di Toyen, poi per il parco contiguo, in cui ci sono Orto botanico e Museo di Storia naturale (www.nhm.uio.no). Trovare bambini in pettorina giallo fluorescente, accompagnati dai maestri, a spasso per l’ora all’aria aperta, sarà una costante. Potrebbero essere passate a questo punto già svariate ore. Potreste avere bisogno di un caffè. Quello norvegese non è da biasimare. Sia chiaro che il loro espresso è un caffè lungo nostrano.

Cartina alla mano, dirigetevi verso Grunerlokka, quartiere molto carino in cui passeggiare e pieno di negozi. Poco distante c’è anche il parco fluviale, ancora incompleto, ma pure percorribile per lunghi tratti. Se stanchi, tornate in centro per rifocillarvi. La varietà del cibo da strada non è propriamente un pregio di Oslo. Una soluzione potrebbe essere la Fiskeriet, pescheria e bistrot in Youngstorget 2b: molte specialità di pesce a prezzi non esorbitanti. Fate attenzione agli orari, giacché in Norvegia il pranzo è servito dalle 11:00 in poi; la cena dalle 17:00. In alternativa, si potrebbe approfittarne per andare verso il Municipio (Fridtjof Nansens plass; Tram n° 12 fermata Rådhusplassen) e da lì ad Aker Brygge, nuovo quartiere in riva al mare con lungomare e appartamenti lussuosi. Un gelato svizzero da MovenPick varrà la pena dell’esborso. Approfittando della luce estiva, nei pressi della Stazione centrale c’è anche l’Opera House (http://www.operaen.no/), sicuramente da visitare, tanto all’interno con possibilità di avere la guida in inglese, tanto all’esterno, salendovi sopra. Sembrerà di stare sopra un iceberg.

Terzo giorno

Altri musei da visitare? Non perdete tempo, andate a Bygdoy (traghetto 91 o bus 30). Qui cinque musei tra i quali scegliere: delle Navi Vichinghe (http://www.khm.uio.no/); della Cultura Norvegese (http://www.norskfolkemuseum.no/); della Nave Kon-Tiki (zattera che ha attraversato gli oceani, http://www.kon-tiki.no/); della Nave Fram (nave polare, impegnata tanto al Polo Nord, quanto al Polo Sud. http://www.frammuseum.no/); della Marina Norvegese (http://www.marmuseum.no/). De gustibus.

Se non vi interessano i musei, potete passeggiare per la piccola penisola, ricca di sentieri pedonali e ciclabili. Tornati in centro, assaggiate un’altra pietanza tipica norvegese: Pane locale e Brunost, un formaggio al caramello. Si prenda in considerazione la possibilità di mangiare altro. Il Brunost non raccoglie troppi consensi tra i non norvegesi.

Nei pressi del Palazzo Reale (Henrik Ibsens gate 1; fermat Metro Nationaltheatret), in Universitetsgata ci sono altri due musei: la Galleria nazionale (http://www.nasjonalmuseet.no/) e il Museo di Storia. Più specifico il primo, per adulti; più immediato il secondo, interessante per i più piccoli, forse. Ci fosse ancora tempo, tornate alla stazione Metro Nationaltheatret, prendete la metro 6 in direzione Sognsvann. Scendete al capolinea e andate verso il lago. In nessun’altra città è pensabile di trovare tanta natura a così poca distanza dai treni: il lago, i sentieri, la foresta. Un posto inaspettato.

Sarà d’obbligo tornare indietro verso centro città. Esauriti i tre giorni, dalla Stazione centrale si ripartirà verso casa. Con il rimpianto per tanto verde e la consolazione di avere qualche alternativa in più ai Polse in strada.

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