Una domenica tra i vicoli di Gaeta

postato in: All posts, Italia, Smart Tips | 632

Passeggi sul lungomare e di fronte si intravedono le cime del Parco naturale dei monti Aurunci. La penisola naturale di Gaeta, una sorta di uncino che si protende nel Tirreno, rende da sempre la città una roccaforte strategica.

La leggenda narra che qui fece scalo Enea durante la sua fuga, e fu lui a darle il nome della sua nutrice qui sepolta; nel medioevo i saraceni più volte provarono a conquistarla, costringendo la popolazione ad abbandonare la costa e a rifugiarsi tra le mura del castello sul Monte Orlando.
Le due rocche che si innalzano sulla città, costruite dagli angioini prima e dagli aragonesi poi, dimostrano quanto fosse essenziale questa lingua di terra per la difesa dell’entroterra.


All’arrivo in città, prima dell’ingresso al centro storico, svetta sulla cima di una collina la Chiesa di San Francesco, in stile neo-gotico:  è imponente e pare osservare la città, dando le spalle a chi arriva da lontano. Arrampicatevi per i vicoli, perché oltre il lungomare non c’è strada pianeggiante; cercate il campanile del Duomo, un vero gioiello, risalente al XII secolo che non ha subìto modifiche nel corso degli anni a differenza del resto del complesso. Non potrete non vederlo, perché svetta tra le basse case. La possente mole è in stile arabo moresco ed insieme al campanile del Duomo di Amalfi, con cui ha notevoli analogie, rappresenta un eccellente esempio di arte medievale dell’Italia centro meridionale.
Da li girate intorno alla chiesa, fino a raggiungere il portale, che dopo il disastroso terremoto del 1231, fu restaurata in stile neoclassico e che affaccia su una stretta stradina. Negozietti e ristorantini si susseguono e proprio per questo vi consigliamo di lasciarvi tentare dalle vetrine ricche di prodotti rustici, per uno spuntino di mezza mattinata, ma aspettate l’ora di pranzo per il vero piatto forte: la Tiella.

La strada finisce in piazza Vincenzo Traniello, attraversandola tutta, arriverete all’arco che porta su Via Angioina, ancora qualche scala da salire, ma è l’occasione giusta per sbirciare tra i cancelli delle casette gaetane, che tra giardini e agrumeti, con scorci di panorama, portano alla Chiesa di San Francesco.


La scalinata che vi accompagna al portale lascia immaginare la maestosità dell’edificio. Se lo trovate chiuso non vi arrendete, un colpo di telefono alla ProLoco (www.prolocogaeta.it/ ) e qualcuno di sicuro verrà ad aprire; a noi è successo così, e un gentilissimo volontario non solo ci ha permesso di visitare la chiesa, ma ci ha anche fatto da guida.

All’uscita non fate la stessa strada, ma proseguite su Via Angioina, fino ad arrivare ai piedi della fortezza angioina, altro panorama sorprendente, questa volta vi affaccerete dal lato opposto del lungomare, avendo tutta la città alle spalle. Ancora una volta diventa evidente come da sempre questo luogo sia la roccaforte perfetta; le alte scogliere e le robuste torri del castello quasi si fondono diventando un’unica parete di roccia.


Per tornare sul lungomare, questa volta per un pranzo sostanzioso, cercate la Salita del Leone, che per voi sarà in discesa, e vi ritroverete nella piazza. Percorrendo tutto il lungomare raggiungete la chiesetta di San Giovanni a mare, edificata nel X secolo, che ha come caratteristiche principali, oltre che alla sua dimensione ridotta, la cupola in stile arabo e il pavimento, leggermente inclinato per permettere il defluire delle acque nei periodi di alta marea.

Per pranzo non possiamo che consigliarvi la Pizzeria del Porto (www.pizzeriadelporto.com), il luogo perfetto per assaggiare la Tiella di Gaeta, una focaccia ripiena dei prodotti tipici della città.
La Pizzeria del Porto apre solitamente verso le 13:00 e di domenica anche verso le 14:00, quindi aspettate pazienti se la trovate chiusa.
Carlo, il tiellaro, ci accoglie nel migliore dei modi, con simpatia e una vasta scelta che soddisfa tutti i gusti; c’è da dire che ci siamo concessi diversi bis, per poter assaggiare un po’ di tutto; la cosa che più colpisce è il ripieno, costituito dall’abbinamento dei i prodotti del mare, polpo, cozze, baccalà, calamari, abbinati a quelli della terra, come scarole, spinaci, olive, cipolle.

Quindi cominciando dalla Tiella ripiena alle cipolle, abbiamo continuato con quelle baccalà e scarole, polpo, calamari e bieta, scarole e olive.
Naturalmente non possiamo che consigliarvi di assaggiarle tutte!

Dopo pranzo prendete l’auto e allontanandovi dal centro storico seguendo le indicazioni per la montagna spaccata. Uno spettacolo naturale, anzi due!
Prima la Grotta del Turco, un enorme falesia, un arco di roccia, che nasconde un’insenatura dove nel medioevo si rifugiavano le navi saracene; dopo, la Montagna Spaccata, un piccolo canyon dalle pareti strettissime, le cui origini oscillano tra storia e leggenda; si narra infatti che al momento della morte di Cristo la montagna si fosse spaccata in due come il Tempio di Gerusalemme; la storia invece racconta dell’opera dei romani, che scavarono la montagna per creare un collegamento da una sponda all’altra della costa gaetana. Curioso particolare è una strana impronta di mano nella roccia, comparsa quando un turco musulmano, poggiandosi alla pietra espresse i propri dubbi circa l’origine della spaccatura dovuta alla morte di Gesù: la roccia divenne molle e le sue dita lasciarono quel segno indelebile.

Il fascino di Gaeta si esalta anche nelle giornate invernali, torneremo presto per scoprire la bellezza delle sue spiagge e del suo mare.

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