4 Set 2013

Giorno 7 – Nei dintorni di Agrigento

di | postato in: All posts, Italia, Itinerandi Summer Tour, On the Road, Sicilia On the Road | 714

Il programma di oggi prevede la visita dei dintorni di Agrigento. Ci hanno parlato della Scala dei Turchi, a poco più di 10 km dal nostro campeggio; nel pomeriggio oltre ad un giro in città, l’idea è di visitare la Valle dei Templi.

Una piccola nota, non vi consigliamo il campeggio, perché siamo stati sfortunati nella scelta. Il campeggio che ci ha ospitati si chiama Camping Le Canne a Siculiana marina. Pessimi servizi e pessimo trattamento da parte dei proprietari, per un giorno intero è mancata l’acqua, i bagni non erano mai puliti, le piazzole per le tende sono tutte al sole. Se avete qualche consiglio per strutture in questa zona segnalatecele così le integreremo nella nota.

Partendo da Siculiana, man mano che ci avvicina alla destinazione, appare alle spalle del promontorio una roccia di un colore bianco abbagliante, che si protende in mare. Il nome, Scala dei Turchi, deriva dai pirati saraceni e ottomani che si riparavano qui durante le tempeste; l’incredibile conformazione di questa roccia offre alla spiaggia un aspetto unico, scalare il promontorio bianco non è difficile e dall’alto godrete di una bella vista sull’orizzonte. La roccia è di natura calcarea ed argillosa, quindi preparatevi a ritrovarvi coperti di una polverina bianca che sembrerà cancellare l’abbronzatura.

Ne approfittiamo perciò per passare la mattinata li in spiaggia, non potevamo certo perdere l’occasione di fare il bagno ai piedi di questo spettacolo naturale. Non sorprendetevi se nel mese di agosto da queste parti trovate un po’ troppa gente, un tempo questo era un sito poco conosciuto, oggi è meta di tantissimi turisti; la spiaggia offre anche un servizio bar/ristorante, oltre a docce e parcheggio.

Se non seguite questo percorso alla lettera,  vi consigliamo di andare in spiaggia alla Scala dei Turchi al tramonto: guardare il sole scendere in mare di fronte a voi e specchiarsi nella roccia bianca creando strani effetti di luce deve essere uno spettacolo mozzafiato.

Verso ora di pranzo ci siamo spostati; prima di arrivare ad Agrigento c’è stata una piacevole deviazione. Le indicazioni ci hanno guidato alla Casa natale di Luigi Pirandello. Una visita brevissima, in perfetto stile pirandelliano; il posto stesso si potrebbe quasi definire un ossimoro, infatti la località dove sorge la residenza è Kaos, nome che contrasta in pieno con la calma e la tranquillità della campagna che la circonda.


La Casa natale è una costruzione rurale di fine settecento, nelle cui sale nelle sono esposti tanti cimeli del Premio Nobel per la letteratura, compresa una buona collezione di volumi appartenuti a Pirandello. La collinetta a strapiombo sul mare è circondata da ulivi e querce, percorrendo un vialetto attraverso la campagna in prossimità della Casa si arriva ad un pino pluricentenario. Sotto questo grande albero Pirandello amava soffermarsi a pensare, a dipingere, a riposarsi, a scrivere agli amici. Ed è qui che ha voluto essere sepolto, secondo le sue ultime volontà, una sepoltura semplice, un ceppo di pietra raccolto dalla Rupe Atenea e ritoccato dallo scultore Marino Mazzacurati dove è ospitata l’urna con le ceneri del Maestro, tra fiori di campo e agavi.

Prossima destinazione: Agrigento, città di cui sempre si sente parlare, ma di cui poco si conosce. Il centro storico della città si sviluppa intorno a via Atenea; la cosa che colpisce di più è il colore delle case e dei palazzi: giallo, marrone, sfumature varie che richiamano i colori della flora di questo territorio arso dal sole.

Agrigento si visita passeggiando tra i palazzi addossati gli uni agli altri, infilatevi in qualche panetteria e assaggiate un po’ di specialità, dolci o salate, scoprite dove portano le scalinate che tra le vecchie case si arrampicano sulla collina, raggiungete la cattedrale sulla sommità e godetevi il panorama. All’interno della chiesa si dice sia custodita la “lettera del diavolo”, una missiva che il demonio stesso inviò ad una monaca per indurla in tentazione. Lei confessò tutto al parroco che decise di custodire la lettere che ancora viene conservata tra queste mura.

Tornando verso la via principale passerete davanti al Monastero di Santo Spirito, fondato nel 1290, ospita le suore che oltre a dedicarsi alla preghiera, cucinano ottimi dolci. Bussate alla porte e chiedete di acquistarli, potrete scegliere tra pasta di mandorle, buccellati o cuscusu di pistacchio, un dolce di origine araba preparato con grano, zucchero, pistacchi e mandorle.

Naturalmente non aspettatevi un clima fresco, la giornata ad Agrigento sarà calda, ma siete in Sicilia e una granita si trova ad ogni angolo.

Il pomeriggio non potevamo chiuderlo che con la visita alla Valle dei Templi. Le spettacolari architetture greche, ancora in piedi dopo migliaia di anni fanno venire il capogiro non solo agli appassionati di arte e storia. Per questo sito c’è poco da dire visto che è possibile procurarsi una moltitudine di guide cartacee o accordarsi con qualcuno che all’ingresso si offrirà di accompagnarvi. Vi diciamo solo che il punto clou della visita è sulla sommità della collina, che si raggiunge seguendo la strada in leggera salita; arriverete infatti al Tempio della Concordia, perfettamente intatto dall’epoca della sua costruzione, il 430 a.C., e scelto dall’Unesco per il proprio logo.

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